Ruger #1, an old subject

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Tom Acheson posted this 06 April 2025

As I’m sanding and working up the courage to select a finish for my new CPA single shot, I’m reminded of an old subject. That subject is the occasional gun magazine article about the accuracy deficiencies of the Ruger #1 single shot rifle.

Memory says the often mentioned “cure” was to keep the forend wood from contacting the receiver. Not a lot of material needed to sanded off but enough to eliminate the contact. There also were other components of the cure but I can’t recall them. A good friend had a Ruger #1 that he took with us during our “sod poodle adventures”. He went through accuracy improvements for his rifle.

So back to the CPA. I’m a member of the ASSRA, just started getting their journal and I follow their forum. I’ve also followed the Shiloh Rifle, BPCR forum since 2010. The subject of forend/receiver contact is not something I’ve seen but I could have missed it. The same for discussion and old article reading about original late 1880’s through early 1900’s single shot rifles. Maybe back then it was not discovered as an accuracy problem or maybe no one ever explored it. But who knows, there might have been discussion of it somewhere deep in the CBA archives.

So it it just the Ruger #1 or are other single shot rifles under the same microscope?

Tom

 

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MarkinEllensburg posted this 06 April 2025

Never heard that one. Have read far more about isolating the spring hanger so that it doesn't vibrate. Usually by drilling, tapping and installing a set screw to tension it. Other method, employed by few was to cut off the hanger and reattach to the barrel. The later was the method Dick Stripes used when he set and held the heavy rifle 10 shot 100 yard group record for years.

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Tom Acheson posted this 06 April 2025

Just looked…..March 2019…in our forum. “Ruger #1 forend bedding” under Single Shots. Interesting discussion.

Tom

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linoww posted this 06 April 2025

about 30 years ago I asked Chauncey Roe if his schuetzen forend was free floating. He said "it's firmly screwed to the barrel as God intended "

I shoot half dozen 44-1/2 rifles and the forend is bedded firmly to the barrel but about 1/8 gap to the reciever so when I swap barrels I can leave the wood on the barrel.

 

on one of my long barrel 44-1/2 rifkes I rest it about 6" back from the muzzle in a v- rest and it shoots well.

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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max503 posted this 06 April 2025

"I shoot half dozen 44-1/2 rifles and the forend is bedded firmly to the barrel but about 1/8 gap to the reciever so when I swap barrels I can leave the wood on the barrel."


So each barrel has it's own fore end?

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Tom Acheson posted this 06 April 2025

Interesting thing about the CPA….quite easy to remove a centerfire barrel and install another CF or a .22 barrel. 

Someday I get a .22 barrel for mine but first to get used to the original (CF) barrel.

Tom

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Aaron posted this 06 April 2025

Float it or bed it? Mary Anne or Ginger?

With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.

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linoww posted this 06 April 2025

some of my barrels have their own forends

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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RicinYakima posted this 06 April 2025

I had issues for several years with my CSA 40/50 until I relieved the back of the fore end from the front of the receiver. 

The only No.1 I owned was a .243 and it would not shoot no matter what with the fore end resting on the front bag. If you removed the fore end and rested on the barrel it was "OK", never figured out how to rest on wood and make it shoot. 

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Bud Hyett posted this 06 April 2025

My thought is the forearm should not touch the action. Also, the forearm should be evenly inlet, or glass-bedded, to the barrel.

My two CPA Stevens 44 1/2 rifles each with two barrels and a forearm for each barrel, none touch the action. There is a barely visible gap between the action and forearm. 

I own six Ruger #1's, the forearms on each do not touch the action. The forearm on two are relieved to where the forearm touches the extension and free-floats the barrel. Two have a thin sliver of brass bedded in the relief to where the forearm draws against it to assure free-floating the barrel. Two did not need any work on the forearm. The way the forearm screws tight is also a challenge, the screw must be evenly drawn to bring the forearm to the correct position.  

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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Wilderness posted this 07 April 2025

Tom - I realize that the #1 is different in having a forend hanger, however the question of forend bearing on the receiver is relevant.

On this side of the Pacific, a generation or two ago, a lot of Cadet Martinis were converted to .222 Rimmed and similar. What I was told about those conversions was that best accuracy came from having the forend well and truly secured to the barrel whilst simultaneously ensuring that forend did not touch the receiver.

When I came to set up a Savage 99 .30-30 in 1980 - a similar proposition to a single shot as far as bedding was concerned - I followed the Martini advice. Forend was epoxy bedded to the barrel for a few inches each side of the hold down screw. Forend looked like a close fit to the action but I made sure nothing actually touched.

Best groups have been slightly under m.o.a. for Sierra bullets and about 1.25 m.o.a. with best cast full power hunting loads - averages have been about double these numbers.

You are only as good as your library.

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OU812 posted this 07 April 2025

I think Precision Shooting magazine had a write up on acurizing the Ruger #1. I know I seen it somewhere and that magazine was the only subscription I had back in day.

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linoww posted this 07 April 2025

I shoot a 30-06 1B ,416 Rigby 1H and 7.62x39 1A with cast quilte alot and the forends are  as they came from the factory touching the reciever. The three guns I shoot plainbase or  low pressure and I can't complain about accuracy. On the few #1's I had shooting jacket loads I did get vertical stringing unless I messed with the hanger bedding.

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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Tom Acheson posted this 07 April 2025

Quite a few years ago I subscribed to Handloader and Precision Shooting magazines. Really liked them! But….funny how our shooting interests change! I dropped those two and started up with BPCR News. On Jan. 1 I added the ASSRA Journal. There are many good publication for us but you can’t subscribe to all of them….at least I can’t….takes lots of time to read all of them!

I do recall many interesting and helpful articles in Precision Shooting.

Tom

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mhice posted this 08 April 2025

All my No. #1s and Falling Block Works rifles forends have been relieved/made to not have receiver contact. Varmint Hunter magazine had a good write up in it back in the late 70's or early 80's IIRC. When I get some free time, I will dig through them and send you a scan. 

-Michael

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4060may posted this 08 April 2025

 Tom

Sent the article in PM

had to cut and paste

chuck

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Tom Acheson posted this 08 April 2025

Chuck,

Just opened it. Quite an extensive overview of the subject. I plan to read it later today. Funny how this subject slid into the deep background, especially with the continuous interest in old, replica and modern single shots that have separate forends. It seems as if the Ruger was a problem, all similar designs could be subject to the same scrutiny….but maybe the designs are different enough to exclude perceived problems?

Tom

P.S. I’m a slow reader!

 

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OU812 posted this 08 April 2025

You can Google the topic "accurizing ruger #1"

I always wanted a #1 chambered in 375 H&H. Browning has or had a single shot version in multiple calibers also, but you know that.

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Bud Hyett posted this 08 April 2025

Frank DeHass in one of his books on single-shot actions did a primitive test of hammer strike force. He rested the rifles vertically against the wall with an aluminum rod in the barrel to measure the force of hammer strike. He cocked the action, fired it and measured the height the rod went up the wall.

This was measuring the force of the firing pin striking the primer. He felt the harder strike gave more uniform ignition and recommended the High Wall based on his findings. The Winchester High Wall was the highest strike, and the Ruger #1 was the lowest.

He opined that the hammer striking the transfer bar soaked up a lot of energy. He recommended smoothing the hammer and transfer bar edges to lessen any friction that a burr might cause.

I respect his experiment and opinion. However, if I can get sub-moa ten shot grouping, I’m not tearing down the action to gain a possible benefit. I’ve done this once on a Browning High Wall and once on a Ruger #1. Never again, I don’t have the time and patience anymore to swear my way through another reassembly.

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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Tom Acheson posted this 08 April 2025

Bud,

I get the reluctance to expend the time and frustration to dig into a gun project that may or may not produce a detectible gain. This time thing is especially important as we approach the finish line of life.

I sometimes reflect on that as I’m sanding my CPA stock. A person can sand only so long! After that, hand rubbing multiple layers of finish into the wood….shooting is a lot more fun!

Tom

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longhunter posted this 09 April 2025

I have 4 barrels for my CPA . All have forearms on each of the barrels.

Tom get the 22, I use it the most.

Jon

Jon Welda CW5 USA Ret.

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