I have heard from a few people that they just JPW as their lube on at of their bullets, and I am not a real fan of paraffin based products as a lube, in fact I think I would rather use Xlox a lot more than JPW. Has anyone really experimented with JPW or are these folks just deceiving themselves?
Thanks,
Jerry
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JPW works very well and isn't as sticky to the hands as LLA. I haven't done a velocity test yet to see which holds up best but I'm going to have to give that a try.
Whichever holds the best groups with the same load and velocity would be my choice.
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i mix the jpw with bees wax. about 4-1 to give it a tack then swirl on/in like lla. i have substituted this straight up for a normal lube and have not had any problems. and have used it to velocities near 2300 in my 30-30 it don't smoke too badly either. i don't use it for everything but i defnatly will use it in some applications.
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Run,
So you are using basically a Paraffin and Beeswax with a touch of Carnuba type of lube? Does the solvents in JPW boil away when you are mixing your recipe?
Jerry
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I've used JPW and LLA as lubes for my 148 grain wadcutter bullets.
Both give the same accuracy with these light loads. JPW smells better and isn't as sticky.
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I just sent an email to Johnson's asking for MSD data on JPW. I'll post their response. I don't know the percentage or the added ingredients, but I do know that the biggest part of JPW is carnauba wax. Concerning mineral, parrafin and bee's wax, none of these is truly a lubricant, in and of itself. It it primarily used as a stiffener or congealing agent. Some types of grease, like those used on Howitzer slides, use mineral wax as a congealant to keep the grease from melting away during high heat conditions. An old recipe for black powder cartridge lube is called Emmert's. It's basically a 50/50 mix of lard and bee's wax. This mixture was used during the 1800s for many applications outside of bullet lube such as leather treatment, wagon wheels and even hand cream. One down side of this mix is that it will melt and “run” in high heat. Another common bullet lube is high temperature aircraft grade grease mixed with parrafin wax. The wax stiffens the lube so it stays in the lube grooves and the high temp grease will not “run” when exposed to high heat conditions like hot chambers and automobile trunks. Currently, I'm using JPW and graphite to lube everthing I cast. I put the bullets in a 7 quart enameled stew pot, drop a teaspoon of JPW in the bottom and swirl untill all the wax is smeared and the bullets are thouroughly coated. I then add a LEVEL teaspoon of 4X powdered graphite and swirl again until all the bullets are completely coated. The bullets are then dumped on a plastic tote bin cover and left to dry for 24 hrs. The down side of this mix is you do get graphite on your fingers handling the bullets and the loaded rounds need to be wiped down when done. I think it's a small price to pay for the excellent results I get from it.
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I have melted down JPW. The solvents readily evaporate off. After it quits smoking and the remainder starts to turn darker, I turn off the heat. As Barney states, I find the wax to be very similar to Carnuba with my crude testing methods finding it behaves in most ways as Carnuba wax.
The MSD will tell to some components in a general description, but will probably leave you in the dark as to 'named' actual components. They get by using terms as mineral solvents and natural or organic waxes.
I haven't coated any CBs with JPW to see how it adheres, but as long as it sticks to the cb and not flake off it ought to be a good tumble lube. Adding JPW or mixing it with other waxes and greases is best considered as just mixing in Carnuba wax. The solvent is a determent in the bore, so the solvent should be cooked off if used in a cb lube or left to dry say 24hrs if tumbled.
According to usage of components (bullet fit, alloy, barrel condition / to velocity) it ought to work under most conditions, but not a fix all or best all around wonder cb lube, just another avenue that will get you there................Dan
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I put bullets (approx 50) either PB or GC'd into a plastic jar and mix shaved (very thin) scented candle, and about 2 tablespoons of JPW into the jar. The turp. or ???? disolves the parafin no heat source needed. Shake this mess around for about a minute and lay out the proj's on a doubled upped sheet of foil. Air dry for about 24 hours. PB's under 1400, and GC's at approx 1650 foot seconds. My personal experience has been no leading and accuracy is as good as the operator can shoot.
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A friend is into wood turning , pens , bowls etc.Wood turners rub pure carnuba on their work to put a nice finish on it. Carnuba can be found at sites catering to woodworkers , woodcraft.com is one of them. But it it expensive , about 20 bucks for 1/2 lb.
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On the other cast bullet forum there are a lot of shooters who say they mix JPW and LLA and maybe a touch of mineral spirits. It is supposed to eliminate one of the drawbacks of LLA, the sticky bullet syndrome. I just got my first can of JPW to try the mixture, as I am a big fan of tumble lubing and not sizing anything if I can help it. Looking into loading techniques which eliminate sizing the cases too.
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The Carnauba was is JPW is a minimal amount. I buy mine from a candle and soap making company in 5 pound tubs. I use no paraffin in my lubes. I can find any advantage in using it.
I do a lot of tumble lube as well as lubing with my Star sizer. You can get better results with other blends than JPW and if you tumble lube, warm up your traditional lube mixture and pour it in the container that you use to tumble your bullets in. Then shake rattle and round the container, set them on a cookie sheet and let them harden up.
I do this with “as cast", as well as sized bullets.
Jerry
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wimilkman
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Tom Acheson
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pat i.
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Aaron
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BRatigan
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MarkinEllensburg
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Ed Harris
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porthos
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mashburn
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Pigslayer
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