Browning 40-65

  • 4.6K Views
  • Last Post 15 May 2009
Hard1 posted this 01 January 2009

Hi

bought a Browning highwall in 40-65 anybody with expericense loading for it what dies work best seems to be a dispute about which ones work will be shooting black powder and .409 to .410 heavy bullets

Regards

Bob

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
JetMech posted this 05 January 2009

Redding-Saeco makes a good die set, but then so do Lyman, and RCBS. I don't know of any controversy, as the 40-65 has always been a CB cartridge.

Attached Files

Jim w. posted this 24 January 2009

I have READ that Lyman dies are closest to the Browning chamber which has an actual neck instead of the straight taper in an original 1886.

But mine came with RCBS “Cowboy” dies which seem to be doing ok so far... which is not real far, I will wait until spring to do the main workup. I am not now casting and so depend on storebought. I have tried a few different designs and brands and have more to work with.

Attached Files

redball2 posted this 24 January 2009

I've  had one of the browning 40-65 for some time. the moulds I've used are both of the saecos. one is about 370 grains and the other is about 405 grains. both work better than I can shoot at 82 with iorn sights. another is the lyman snover that has some supporters. the charges I've used is from 51 grains of black up to all you can get in the case. for smokless. 18 grains of 4759. for black use 1 to 25 lead and tin. for smokless use wheel weights. lube for black, one of several lubes designed for black. or use half and half tallow and beeswax. for smokless use any of the commerical lubes such as voodo. nra, etc. for less recoil use the lighter bullet. for better results at long distance use the heaviest.

these rifles benifit from having the trigger worked on.

Jim Wilcox

 

Attached Files

CB posted this 24 January 2009

Jim, I picked up a Browning 85 in 30-30 last weekend, who worked on your trigger?

Attached Files

JetMech posted this 25 January 2009

Lee Shaver is the man for trigger work on Brownings. Iantha, MO (417-682-3330).

Attached Files

redball2 posted this 25 January 2009

Pat I had a local gunsmith work on the trigger. I would think any compent gunsmith would understand it. mine now has about a 2 pound trigger. Lee shaver has a reputation for it. I do have one of his 22 inserts but don't think it isa very durable.

Jim

Attached Files

Jim w. posted this 25 January 2009

I had mine done by a local guy. Would have sent the bits to Lee Shaver but could not get in touch. I have since read that they have been reorganizing without an FFL because they cannot make gunsmithing pay! They will continue in sights and accessories and will do Browning triggers which do not require them to have the whole gun.

I have settled on the Snover for the time being; I have commercial cast versions in all available diameters. Hope the .411” with the least sizing will seat and chamber ok.

Attached Files

Longbow posted this 06 May 2009

The Saeco 375 and 410 gr. cast at .410 both work great in the Browning, cast 20-1. 56 gr. Swiss 1 1/2 for the 375, is a dandy load. Pete

Attached Files

Longbow posted this 06 May 2009

The Saeco 375 and 410 gr. cast at .410 both work great in the Browning, cast 20-1. 56 gr. Swiss 1 1/2 for the 375, is a dandy load. Pete

Attached Files

Jim w. posted this 15 May 2009

I got the best accuracy with a .411” Snover. I don't know if that is because of the size - I was told that most Brownings had a .411” throat - or because of the sizing - the least disturbed bullet doing the best.

I started and stayed with 56 grains Swiss 1 1/2 = 1200 fps

 

Attached Files

Tom Acheson posted this 15 May 2009

Mine is a 74 Sharps by C. Sharps, 30” barrel. The load is the Saeco #740 (410-gr.) 20:1 @ 0.410” dia. 55-gr. of Swiss 1 1/2 and FC-210M primers (try to buy those today!) at about 1217 fps. Redding dies work well. Where the Competition seater die is really nice is when setting it up. With the compacted powder, topped off by the 0.030” thick wad in the case, you just turn the top cap, the micrometer thimble, and push the bullet into the case until you feel the bullet base touch the wad on top of the powder.  Your bullet is now sitting on top of the wad/powder where it should be. While turning the Comp Die's thimble with your thumb and forefinger, you have a wonderful touch and can feel when the bullet just touches the wad. And as we know, for BP laoding the bullet MUST be in contact with the wad!

It's early in the load development game but the attached photo is a 26” dia. gong at 400-yrads. Uisng the  7 3/4” paint can as a “ruler", the 5-round group is 9.6” or about 2 1/4 MOA (Hoke tang rear sight). The edge hit at 4:30 is a sight-in shot and isn't in the group measurement.

Tom

Attached Files

Hard1 posted this 15 May 2009

Hi Tom

I shot the browning last wednesday took two boxes of ammo with three different loads the 312 Gr. saeco mold that came with the rifle will group ok ten shots in three in. average bought a saeco 420 gr. round nose mold it shoots much better and faster powders seem to work better with both bullets 2f will shoot better than 1.5 in my rifle and I have been told that 3f will do better yet have not tried 3f but smokeless powder works really well in this rifle. But can not use it in matchs. 5744 and 4895 both had good results with the heavy bullets. I am told that the browning has a fast twist to accomadate the heavyier bullets it has proved out.

Regards

Bob

Attached Files

Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close