I have a friend with a Charleville musket and am purchasing a powder flask as a gift for him.
I encountered a warning note that says that one should not use the flask to pour the powder directly into the bore of a muzzle loader.
Is this a real danger, or is it something the lawyers required?
Bob .45-70 & .30-30
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Yes, it really is dangerous. I was a Safety Rep for the NMLRA back in the day and it was normal protocol to avoid it. In all my years playing the game, I only saw it happen a few times but luckily it was only one charge that went and not a grenade in their hand. Scorched fingers but not too serious and also a good reason to keep your face away from the muzzle too. The flask is fine but just pour it into a measure for the final dump.
Scott Ingle
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Many thanks!
The point about keeping the face away from the muzzle is worth repeating.
I will recommend using a measure for the final dump.
Since the flask spout is 60 grains and the desired load is 80-100 grains, I will suggest dumping the first spout full into the measure and the tapping the second spout full to fill the measure. Any hints or suggestion?
Bob .45-70 & .30-30
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There is always a risk that a burning ember in the bottom of the barrel will ignite the poured charge and hence, the flask, if pouring from a flask. By the same token, having an OPEN can of black powder on the loading bench whilst firing a muzzleloading rifle or handgun, will ignite the whole shebang with catastrophic results.
So if using a flask with a measure attached, pour the measured amount of powder into a film canister or something like that to dump it into the barrel. Best bet is to fill a separate powder measure from the flask and pour from the powder measure into the barrel. That's the safest way to roll.
In my years of shooting smoke poles, I have not witnessed a flask explosion nor heard of anyone I associated with as having one. I HAVE heard of two powder canister explosions from leaving an open canister of black powder on the shooting bench. One of our members here posted photos of his burnt face and head while he warned us all about the danger of that. Very informative.
The faster you shoot, the more of a risk there is of having a glowing ember in the bottom of the barrel.
Now having said all that, when shooting my black powder revolvers, I set the revolver in a loading stand and charge directly from the measure attached to the flask. I do however blow into the chambers before setting the revolver into the loading stand and have a look-see into the chambers to ensure they are clear of debris and embers. I don't use the flask if loading paper cartridges however but DO blow into the chambers and clear out paper debris before loading another paper cartridge. If there is any danger involved with the revolvers, it's loading subsequent paper cartridges with paper debris (smoldering) in a fired chamber. That's gonna hurt a bit I think.
Be Safe! Make lots of smoke!
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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Aaron laid it out very well. All I've ever used my flask for is as a handy tool to dispense powder into a measure, then, I pour the measured charge into the barrel or into watertight containers as premeasured charges for hunting. Plastic centrifuge tubes are great for that purpose. Back in about 1990 or 91 I was shooting in the youth trap match in Friendship Indiana and there was an incident on the rifle line where a shooter was loading their rifle and had a discharge resulting in the ramrod and all going through their hand, or at least that was the story that went around. After that it was required that all loading rods have a ball or T-handle. The risk of an errant spark is very real. I've always thought it should be emphasized to ram the ball, bullet, wads, or whatever onto the powder charge SLOWLY but firmly to let compressed air escape without heat. Look up pneumatic tinder igniter or fire piston.
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Perhaps an alternative gift for the Charleville shooter would be a sack full of proper/period correct paper cartridges, and the means to make more?! (And a pocket full of flints to with them.)
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I often used an adjustable measure with a swing over spout to strike off any excess when swung into position for dumping down the barrel. Adjustable was nice because I could use it for a variety of weapons too. Good suggestion on the cartridge making kit and it gives a nice period feel to the process in addition to single charging. The only drawback with doing it historically was priming the pan before charging the barrel. The old saying of "going off half cocked" gave me the heebie geebies. So I primed with 4f from a separate priming flask after the weapon was loaded.
Scott Ingle
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All great suggestions! Flask. Paper cartridges and the making gear. Flints. Great ideas!
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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I often used an adjustable measure with a swing over spout to strike off any excess when swung into position for dumping down the barrel. Adjustable was nice because I could use it for a variety of weapons too. Good suggestion on the cartridge making kit and it gives a nice period feel to the process in addition to single charging. The only drawback with doing it historically was priming the pan before charging the barrel. The old saying of "going off half cocked" gave me the heebie geebies. So I primed with 4f from a separate priming flask after the weapon was loaded.
At first the idea of priming the pan first gave me the heebie-jeebies too. Then, after firing God only knows how many thousands of rounds via that protocol as a re-ennactor with no accidents (and never witnessing any either) I must say it's an unfounded heebie. Definitely a bit of a jeebie though so muzzle control is paramount.
The drill in the British Army was to prime the pan, then "cast about" (drop the butt beside the left leg/foot with the muzzle pointed up and away - butt didn't touch the ground), insert paper cartridge in muzzle with the open end down, and ram it home. Note it's unnecessary to shake the powder out of the cartridge - plenty will escape into the breech as the cartridge is pushed down the bore, ignition guaranteed. With ball cartridges the same protocol is followed - the paper acting as a means of taking up the sloppy fit of the undersize ball in the bore.
At that point the soldier waited for the next command which could be either to shoulder arms for further maneuvering or to "make ready" (cock the gun with it pointed forward&up from the hip), "present" (point it at the enemy), and finally "give fire" (shoot). After the shot the musket was dropped to the "make ready" position and the soldier waited for the next command (shoulder arms or reload for another shot). Fun times.....
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Not trying to be argumentative but there is more than one way to skin the proverbial/historical cat. Since it is a Charleville the relevant French manual of arms was to open pan, take cartridge, tear off end, prime and close pan, charge weapon and ram it home. This still makes me appreciate Civil War and putting on the cap after loading.
Scott Ingle
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I would think the scary part was dropping the now open paper cartridge down the bore that has had several bits of maybe still hot paper.
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They were manly men then. Most didn't have eyebrows. 
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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I would think the scary part was dropping the now open paper cartridge down the bore that has had several bits of maybe still hot paper.
Like I said earlier, in a couple decades of shooting these things, Charlevilles, Brown Besses, and Springfields, with paper cartridges I never witnessed an accidental discharge due to priming first and then ramming the cartridge down the bore.
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Powder flasks are strictly prohibited in Germany since one turned into a hand grenade once. Since there is no advantage over a powder measure why risk it ?
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They would be quite convenient for filling a power measure, as the proper nozzle gets you close with less spillage.
Bob .45-70 & .30-30
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