Screw Removal Assist

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Aaron posted this 06 February 2025

Well keeping with the "Tank" association, I attempted to remove the 3 plug screws in a Ruger MkIV Target pistol. As you can imagine, it didn't go well. Apparently Ruger now WELDS these rascals into the receiver and one needs a teeny weeny tiny allen wrench to snap off while trying to remove the screws. All three are now rounded out and no "normal" tool will remove them.

I don't know if they make and EZ-Out bit this small and even then a machine shop is called for to make the precision drilling needed to remove these screws. A Dremel tool simply is not in the cards here.

Any suggestions folks to remove these screws with rounded out flats?

 

With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.

screws

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fc60 posted this 06 February 2025

Greetings,

It is possible that the screws have a thread sealant (LocTite).

You can try a Metric allen key or, perhaps, a Torq key that would be a snug fit in the cavity.

Either way, you need to heat the body up to weaken the thread sealant.

Strip the gun to the bare bones and put the barrel/receiver in the kitchen oven at 350F.

Then try to insert the key and loosen the screws.

Yes, they do make small EZ-Outs. I used one recently to remove a 3mm screw.

You want to do the drilling on a proper milling machine. A drill press might get you by if you have the receiver clamped in a vise.

Cheers,

Dave

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Aaron posted this 06 February 2025

It is possible that the screws have a thread sealant (LocTite).

Highly likely they used industrial strength, permanent, Ruger Special Lock Sealant designed to frustrate customers.

I will take the receiver to a local Tool & Die machine shop and pay the going rate to have those screws removed. Dang.

With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.

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sluggo posted this 07 February 2025

I am pretty sure this is the guy that tightens the smaller screws at the ruger plant.

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Justin.P posted this 07 February 2025

Use a cheap sacrificial hex key, stick it the screw and heat the hex key with a torch and let the heat sink into the screw. Then use a really good hex key to remove it. You can also heat them with a soldering iron if you have a biggish one. Don't use the heated hex key for anything other than heating. The heat treatment of the steel is janky after you put the torch to it.

Sometimes driving a Torx head driver into a buggered up hex will turn you into a hero. Other times it just improves your profanity vocabulary.

They do make hex drive extractors. Just for these situations. But you still need the heat.

Not all hex keys are created equal, many are pretty soft and weak. There are others I'm sure, but my Wiha brand keys have been fantastic. Not magic, but darn good.

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Bud Hyett posted this 07 February 2025

If you have a solid drill press with a heavy base, you can drill them out with left-hand twist carbide drills. 

  • Heat them to 350 degrees or with a fine-tipped soldering iron as suggested above.
  • Be very careful, carbide drill so not break, they shatter. Wear good eye protection.

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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Aaron posted this 07 February 2025

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I will visit these guys to have them removed.

JMK Tool & Die

 

 

With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.

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shjoe posted this 07 February 2025

as suggested, a fine tipped soldering iron and a reversing drill with a left hand drill bit may work. best regards

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mm93 posted this 07 February 2025

Left hand bits and my Weller soldering gun to get heat pinpointed and not heat the surrounding areas. This has always worked for me on stuck screws and bolts, and often the lefthand bits catch at some point and just unscrew the offending fastener. I also use a drill press and my machinist's vise to ensure everything is lined up and perfectly vertical to the drill bit. Plus it keeps both hands free of the parts I'm drilling.

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Clod Hopper posted this 07 February 2025

Why would Ruger use permanent Loctite on screws that are meant to be removed??  I assume you mean the three on top of the receiver.  I have removed those to put a scope mount on them on a Mark IV.  Even if you mean the rear sight screws, those should not be permanent.  I would call Ruger and ask them.  I think somebody goofed.

Dale M. Lock

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shjoe posted this 07 February 2025

years ago before loc-tite, i remember using a drop of mercurochrome to rust lock screws in place

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OU812 posted this 07 February 2025

Heat will turn the cured Loctite into a thin easy release syrup. Rounded loose fitting allen keys can cause problem. Grind off rounded edge.

 

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Justin.P posted this 07 February 2025

Why would Ruger use permanent Loctite on screws that are meant to be removed??  I assume you mean the three on top of the receiver.  I have removed those to put a scope mount on them on a Mark IV.  Even if you mean the rear sight screws, those should not be permanent.  I would call Ruger and ask them.  I think somebody goofed.

I don't think is would have to permanent, even Blue can be tough to get moving when it's on tiny screws.

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sandwman posted this 13 February 2025

I am sure Ed Harris can confirm this, but I don't think any sealant is used on these screws at least in my experience. They are so small that using any sealant would make them tough to remove because of the small purchase area. The foreign made hex keys which often don't fit properly don't help matters. Plus the plethora of cheap hardware store "easy outs" for small screws rarely if ever work.  

Before removing screws like this I first soak them in Kroil, whether a new or old gun. 

But since we are past that point, the only safe and sure way to remove them is by drilling them out using a left hand bit just as Ken states. From my 40+ years of being a gunsmith and Ken's vast experience with both guns and model cars, we know this is the best route. Plus it saves a lot of time wasted trying other methods and the headaches which come with them.   

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Aaron posted this 13 February 2025

As mentioned above, the barrel is at a Machine shop to get the screws removed. It requires proper tooling and precision. Soldering irons and a dremel tool is a recipe for disaster. The specified 5/64 Allen wrench in the owners manual was too large for the flats. The size was much smaller, about half that size actually. One of the screws had a damaged head as well. A wrench that tiny simply can't apply enough torque to budge the screw without rounding. Something was probably used to set the screws in that tight and resist all "normal" attempts to remove them. Let's hope the machine shop can get them removed without boogering up the threads.

Ruger production now days is fast and furious. My previous NMBH revolver would NOT fire right out of the box. I had to diagnose and correct that issue. My latest (today) NMBH is gritty right out of the box. The cylinder squeaks as it goes around and the gun, in its plastic bag, is dry. No oil on it at all. The rear sight retaining & pivot pin had to be tapped into the top strap . It was sticking out 2mm.

These latest revolvers are a far cry from the revolvers 20-25 years ago. A far cry. The plastic grips give them a hollow, cheap sound as well. Forcing cones are rough, real rough. Forcing cone leading is guaranteed. An 11 degree cone needs to be cut and polished if shooting cast bullets. Cylinder mouths are tight and consistent however.

My point I guess, is that the new Ruger revolvers and pistols are not what they were 25 years ago. They are banging them out and quality has slipped a bit.

 

With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.

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sandwman posted this 13 February 2025

The machine shop should not have any issue removing the screws without damaging the threads. They might have to order a drill bit because they probably don't mess with screws that small. But again, they should be able to get the screws out and clean up the existing threads. 

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Hornet posted this 13 February 2025

For future reference, one trick from ages ago was to put a fairly well fitting driver bit (or screwdriver) in the screw and whack it a little with a small hammer. The shock from the impact can loosen up locktite, nail polish or light rust enough to loosen things up and allow removal. Had to do that last summer with a 50 year old Contender barrel to scope it. Those 1/4" hex drive bits work well for this.

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Aaron posted this 18 February 2025

Have the barrel back from the machine shop. They managed to get the plug screws out without damaging the threads. The screws did in fact have RED LOCTITE on them. Unbelievable quality control brain fart by Ruger. Actually, my previous Ruger, a 357 Magnum NMBH would not fire. I wonder how it was "test fired" at the factory.

I think the Ruger brand has had a significant and staggering quality reversal. I will no longer purchase a Ruger firearm. The Italians are doing a better job with their reproductions and front-line guns. The Japanese (Miroku) are producing SUPERIOR quality rifles - far better than Winchester ever could. At least the Italian and Japanese, and Brazilian guns fire and you can get the plug screws out.

Hey Ruger.....a $2000 Marlin 336 and lousy quality will bury you. Start looking for another line of work guys. Bill Ruger is rolling over in his grave for sure.

IMHO of course.

 

 

With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.

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pat i posted this 18 February 2025

It must be hit and miss at Ruger. I picked up a new Mark 4 22/45 a couple of months ago and the screws were barely in the reciever with no sign of any thread locker. I gave up on their long guns many moons ago because of poor workmanship but their handguns always seemed alright. Whoever put locktite on those tiny screws, especially red, is a knothead. And the list price on Marlin guns is a bad joke.

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sandwman posted this 18 February 2025

The red thread locker on the screws does not mean it was same as the red "Loctite" brand. There are many thread lockers used throughout the gun world that are not the same. Some may be the same as blue "Loctite" brand. 

I am surprised though that they chose to use any thread locker on them.

However with the proper fitting wrench the screws could have been removed. As a gunsmith I get guns brought in with damaged screws all the time with the cause always being the wrong size wrench or driver and/or cheaply made tools. 

Lastly my experience with Rugers has always been positive, past and present.  

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linoww posted this 19 February 2025

The last couple of Ruger single action revolvers I purchased needed a bit of work to make them shootable. For example a 45 Colt with cylinder throats of .448! 

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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