question on brass

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  • Last Post 27 February 2022
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sluggo posted this 26 February 2022

Hello: Being unable to find .22 jet brass during the current shortages going on I decided to try forming some from .357 mag brass. After some trials and errors i found a technique that works 99+% of the time. Some of the earlier tries at forming cases have a small lube dent? or case collapse? My question is can these be used? I am going to use cast bullets for the most part. I will load some with jacketed pills also. These will be used in a S&W model 53 revolver. Thanks for any help with this late winter project.

 

 

 

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Ross Smith posted this 26 February 2022

If you are using cast bullets they are probably ok.

I make 308 x 1 5/8 out of 308 or 30-06 brass in one pass and they will occaisionally do the same.  As long as there is no crease in the brass it's ok. A crease worries means that is the start of a tear.

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Little Debbie posted this 26 February 2022

Looks like a lube dent and may or may not develop into a split or crack. I have formed a lot of .25-35 cases from .30-30 and ended up with similar dents. Some of them split after a couple firings (even after annealing) and some never do until a mouth split or incipient head separation gets them.

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Shuz posted this 26 February 2022

FWIW--There is an article on loading the. 22 Jet in the latest issue of Shooting Times magazine.

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Bud Hyett posted this 26 February 2022

With cast loads, these will work fine. I'd like to know what you find with this cartridge, I have a .22 Jet barrel for my T/C Contender. Once primers become more available, I'd like to experiment with it again. 

When I started reloading wildcats, I dented a bunch of necks due to inexperience. Too much lubricant until I discovered Imperial Sizing Die Wax on the advice of my uncle. This was a custom .22-.250 bored out to 6mm-.250 with 1:12 twist. I shot this rifle for fox and ground squirrel, the cases worked fine. I used .250 Savage brass and then neck-turned. 

I later built a Remington 788 to the same chamber for cast. This shot very well until the CBA eliminated the Silhouette Class. Then I discovered the 6mm BR with similar capacity. Nirvana, no more forming brass. 

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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ray h posted this 26 February 2022

Sluggo, what steps did you use to form the Jet down from 357?  Special form dies?   I briefly tried to form a couple last year by using the seater die and then FL die. Didn't go well for me. I later was lucky to get 400 of the Privi. I'm getting those ready for a ground squirrel hunt in Nv in Apr. I have some Rem brass fitted to my Contender barrel.   Good luck with the 53, beautiful gun but can get cranky pretty quick. Watch your bullet dia. You probably already know the drill.

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Oldman 1950 posted this 26 February 2022

If it my brass I would anneal the dented area and load 5 to 7 grains of fast burning powder and fill the remainder of the case with Cream Of Wheat and try to blow the dent out. I have done this several times on brass that dented while reforming it with sucess.

A. J. Palik

Any day you wake-up sucking air will be a good day

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sluggo posted this 26 February 2022

After trying the seating die for sizing first i was ruining a lot of cases. What worked best was to put a case that had not been annealed in the sizing die. Apply leverage until about 1/3 of the case was sized. I use an old rcbs rockchucker press. The press lets you know when its had enough. Then i annealed the 1/3rd. sized cases. After that the cases were run through the same sizing die. I tried forming about 1/2 the case and turning it then forming the rest of it. I also just used a slow steady motion in one step. Both methods worked well with a few damaged cases. (Mostly to over lubing) Forming dies are available. At a cost of $200.00 plus tax and shipping for the two dies needed led me to try a different way. Hope this helps.

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David Reiss posted this 27 February 2022

I have been forming .22 Jet brass from .357s for many years. The previous suggestion about annealing the cases is correct. Without doing so you will continue to get those dents. They are not caused by too much lube, but just the stress on forming the cases without annealing. I suggest you use a lube like imperial lube when sizing. Slow and easy with the forming as you said, it really helps to reduce case stress and loss. 

Once sized in a .22 Jet FL die, use a low pressure load to fire form them. I can also add that even after full pressure loads those stress dents will still be present. I just toss those as ,357 brass is plentiful. 

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
-Services: Wars Fought, Uprisings Quelled, Bars Emptied, Revolutions Started, Tigers Tamed, Assassinations Plotted, Women Seduced, Governments Run, Gun Appraisals, Lost Treasure Found.
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sluggo posted this 27 February 2022

Thanks for the advice. The original plan was for low pressure loads with a 45gr. Plain base slug. My lyman cast bullet manual says i can get between 1800 and 2200fps. Sounds pretty optimistic but better than the alternative. A used .22lr. Cylinder for the model 53 is north of $350.00. Who knows if it will index correctly. Using the .22lr. Inserts makes a flintlock look like a semi auto. With your guys help i think i am on the right path.

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