I can't wait to get this mold heated up tomorrow. It's for the 41 Magnum revolvers. These are simply wonderful molds as some of you already know. This one is the 411-429 PB HP mold. A 210gr HP or 220gr FP. I am still amazed how fast they get here from Europe.
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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I have several MP molds. They are all very well made. And like you said they make it across the pond in record time. A few things I have found out while using them. The 4 cavity molds will give your wrist a workout if you cast a big pile of bullets. I found they cast keeper bullets quicker if pre heated. Also when new I clean them with a good detergent and alcohol. Then I "season" the stripped mold for about 30 minutes 2 or 3 times in my powder coating oven until they take on a bronze patina. The bullets usually drop right out after doing this. One problem i have with them is they shed the little C clips that hold the hollow point pins on occasion. They usually give some extras with a new mold. I bought a bag of 50 the last time I bought one of their molds. All in all they cast some great pills. I think you will be happy with your new mold
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Thanks for the tips Mike. I figured to order some more c-clips in the near future. I am looking forward to ising the mold Saturday.
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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Heated the mold up today. It casts beautifully of course. Took a while to get to optimum casting temp due to it being brass and a 4 cavity. My left forearm looks like Popeye now.
Mold casts at .4145 With Lyman #2 alloy. Bullets weigh 208gr with the star spud inserted
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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Very nice. Would you mind telling what you size them at? Thanks
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Very nice. Would you mind telling what you size them at? Thanks
.410" since it's the only size die I have for the 41. Can't seem to locate a .411 or .412 size die. Fortunately the cylinder mouths are right at .410 - and I mean .410".
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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I get there molds also and like said about the C clips. The last ones I got was one for the 44 mag and one that is 32 cal sledge hammer that you can also use in 30 cal. just size it down. Got more use out of it that way . You will like there molds the more you get use to them and yes for where they from you get them fast.
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Run the c clips on the bottom stud only. On a 2 cav if you use Lee handles it will knock the clips off the top pins in short order. Even on the 4 cavity run only the clips on the bottom pins
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Aaron which firearm are you shooting those nice bullets from?
Mp
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A Ruger NMBH and a S&W Model 57. And a T/C Contender.
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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I have a mint condition old model three screw Blackhawk with 6.5 inch barre. I would like to have a S&W Model 57. I have a MP mold for it,but I believe mine might be a different mold. It has a honking hollow point which I call the flying ashtray. I'll take a look. I actually have two of them.
Mp
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I have a few MP molds and no complaints.
The only caution I remember is not to lube the pins. Not even 2 stroke oil. Can’t remember now but I eventually ran them dry (seems dumb now that I say it out loud) or maybe I used graphite.
I bought a couple of them for a 9mm carbine but the nose wouldn’t clear the chamber ramp. Pretty bullets though.
+1 on buying a bag of the E clips. I‘d buy some extra pins as well. Bill C.
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I have a couple of their 22 caliber moulds and the sprue plate fill holes are way too large. Causing hard opening and deformation of bullet bases. My 22 caliber NOE mould fill holes are half the size...much easier to cast with.
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I hadn’t considered which pin to run a single clip on but since they’re tied together I figured one is good enough. I install two usually but if one falls off I don’t worry.
My other oopsies I ran in to were from not knowing the correct way to assemble. I just put it together as fast as my sausage fingers let me and heated it up. I had one slide pin not straight and it caused some drag. Only a few weeks later someone posted a link to MP’s set up instructions that I had no clue existed. There’s no instructions in the box. Well it turns out I made not one but two assembly mistakes and that directly cause my errant slide pin. On the actual mold pin it matters which side oth the cross threaded hole you use. I had not noticed that only one side has a slight milled recessed cup to accept the slide pin. I randomly had installed the sliders on the non socket cupped side causing the misalignment, I had thought it was a bad pin. Secondly…..the instructions say to NOT fully tighten the slider pins, back them off a bit. Thankfully Miha put an extra pin in the box because I messed one up removing one to correct the assembly. It was stuck after being heated a few times cinched tight.
So not snug pins and in the cupped side of the plug pins.
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Being the pins screw into the hollow point plug I'd much rather see MP molds have head on the pins either slot or allen. Tad more little difficult to assemble, but don't have to fuss with the clips.
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I leave the cross pins slightly loose in the HP pin and only put one E clip on the bottom cross pin. The top one doesn't really need one, all they do is keep the HP pin from falling out when the mould is open.
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Some handles will catch on the top pin clips. So run them on the bottom only.
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Being the pins screw into the hollow point plug I'd much rather see MP molds have head on the pins either slot or allen. Tad more little difficult to assemble, but don't have to fuss with the clips.
The pin screws are a tad tedious and attention to their status is due before every casting session. I have noticed that they also like to back out of the HP plugs during a lengthy casting session and need to be re-positioned when the mold cools down. While tedious, they function well in their intended purpose and altogether the MP molds function well and deliver great looking bullets. While not a Lee dual cavity mold with its simplicity, the MP molds are in a different level of performance, demanding a higher level of experience from the user community. I have no complaints.
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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Aaron I don't know what you're doing but my pins with the threads never ever came loose and backed out. Those C clips are a pain in the ass. I'd tak the screw head pin anyday over the C clips. BTW he outsources those pins. Probably some day I'll make those pins with the screw heads, I have all the equpment to do so.
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I screw them in snug then back off 1/4 turn as per the directions. I think the thermal expansion/contraction during a session works them loose. Not a problem mind you but one must pay attention to it. Before I secure the mold after a session. I tighten and back off as per instructions. The c-clips haven't been as much of an issue for me. Some folks lament their existence but so far I have been lucky. I think most of the issues, either c-clips or pins is due to the individual casting process and the way the mold is handled. We all have our own unique handling process, some more aggressive than others, which may induce loosening of doo-dads.
I finally used a pencil to "lubricate" the HP spud as per the instructions and holy crap - it worked. The bullets flew off the spud when the mold was opened and the mold half tapped gently to allow the spuds to flow out of the cavity. Miracle of miracles - the guy who made the mold was right!
With rifle in hand, I confidently go forth into the darkness.
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