"One" way(there's several ways to go about this) is to turn a top punch into a "range rod". Basically,you turn a top punch, - a cpl "tenths" (.0001's) under the sizer ID and pull the handle. You'll "see" pretty quick what's what.
I made a top punch a month ago for a Lee 452-190 that bypasses the nose of the bullet,and registers on the SWC,or outer edge of the top driving band. The logic,and it does work.... is that I was controlling the amt of engraving during chambering.
Matching seater stem,to set OAL; It works peachy. When doing OAL setting,I was using a plunk test on the barrel. Get it so that it's about .001"...."long",and requires a smidge of finger pressure to seat. As if there isn't enough going on during the cycle of a 1911? It works and shows up in paper,Mr Ripley(believe it or not).
Back to range rods; I didn't realize when making this top punch that it was too long when trying to size in a 450. So,back to the lathe and turned down the OD of the bttm portion of the TP to a cpl tenths less than the ID of the H die.
With a Proto 3/8" torque wrench in a welded socket on the 450 handle,this setup gives you two options. One is use a torque setting (clicker type wrench),the other is setting by "depth"(no torque wrench),letting the shoulder on the outside of top punch act as a "stop" against top of H die. One critical aspect here,and this applies to ANY size bullet..... is that you match the seater stem to the top punch. They need to be a matched set.
And yes,have made a bunch of bore rider style bullet,nose punches that effectively do the same. These are sizing base first and usually are part of a nose bump. Which I've come to rely on a beam style torque wrench for. Was bumping some RCBS 22's this morning. I can't really give you #'s on the wrench because the ratio depends on where the TW is attached to the handle.
It's easy though. You're going to feel EXACTLY where the nose yields. Write it down,take measurements,write that down. Think about what you want,and try to "guess" what the torque pressure "should" be, vs just keep trying/measuring. Yes the latter works but I feel you aren't getting the full benefit until you can actually start to predict the "upset" beforehand. Then,you'll appreciate say 150" of pressure vs 200".
A bore rider has an advantage on a test plate;
If you don't gum up a sized/bumped bullet with lube it's an EASY visual rolling it on a test plate. You'll not only see the effects of the fitted top punch clearly,you "should" see some out of roundness. At this point,of inspection you can also start playing with some other features,mostly based on how "deep" you run the bullets down into the H die. Most of my sizing is only on the GC end,and MAYBE halfway up the lowest drive band.
This last part is also critical during inspection and dialing in the alignment. Hard to put into words but here goes"
If you have a reasonably round bullet coming out of the mould. You should be able to calc,.... how out of round by looking at the "line" where the sizing stops halfway up that lowest drive band. If it isn't perfect,.... it's at an angle,more on one side.... then you have a type of hysteria somewhere in the system.
At this point you should be wondering about that factory H die.... along with some other,should be obvious places. Each "system" is going to be a case in itself.... sure,I could say to look "here". But that doesn't hold water from a manufacturing standpoint. It's up to the individual to locate where the problem is. Sorry for the novel.