press ram lube

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  • Last Post 17 March 2012
ubetcha posted this 21 January 2012

I was doing some loading today and noticed that the ram was getting dirty. So I wiped it down and relubed it with some FP10 that I have.I was wondering what other people do to clean and lube their press linkage and rams.

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jimkim posted this 21 January 2012

I've tried Rem-Oil, lithium grease, STP, 3 in 1, penetrating oil, Dexron ATF, Ed's Red, and motor oil. I like either Ed's Red, Dexron, or a Dexron/synthetic motor oil mix the best. I make a giant swab by wrapping cotton around a broken cleaning rod and dab it on.

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ubetcha posted this 21 January 2012

I have thought of using some type of grease in the past,but would believe that with any dirt,lead,copper or brass filings that may find it way into it would become a abrasive paste

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CB posted this 21 January 2012

Any paste made of copper, brass, lead and most kinds of dirt wouldn't be very abrasive when rubbed against steel because they are all much softer than steel. Dry steel against dry steel on the other hand wouldn't be so good.

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Michael K posted this 22 January 2012

About 15 years ago I was speaking with the folks at Dillon about my 550. During the conversation the topic of lubing the ram came up and I asked what they suggested.

They suggested one the most durable, tested, widely used lubes available in the market today; sae 30W. In my puzzled response they raised the query “Is there really an any more inhospitable environment then an engine?” 30W is inexpensive and very doubtful anyone be able to run a 550 fast enough to get 30W to break down.

Not having any 30W on hand I usually use 5W-20 or 15W-40 instead. When a rams start to get dry, grap the oil can, tooka tooka tooka, and I'm good to go.

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CB posted this 22 January 2012

I use the same synthetic 5W30 I used to lube the guns. First a generous application, then cycle the ram up and down a few times. Then I wipe everything off. There's enough left to last it a long time.

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Fg1 posted this 22 January 2012

Clean with WD40 pump type bottle , wipe all grime I can from it and oil with light oil , wipe off excess. Often thought about mixing microfine graphite in some light oil an lubing it.

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billwnr posted this 22 January 2012

I've used the spray on graphite and after a bit of use things start getting rougher. I've gone back to keeping the ram clean

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 22 January 2012

most important is to keep the shafts  ( don't forget the pivot pins )  clean of gritty stuff ...  there might be true grit in primer residue.

then most any lube film will work .... i prefer moly goop....wd40 is a terrible lube, but a good cleaner.

moly loves steel. and will grab erholt of it and make it's own film.  it is available in dry form as     dry  slide     .   i used this on bolt guns when hunting coyotes at 20 below.  i think i have seen   dry slide   at walmart.

speaking of lubes, i can get     liquid film    at napa auto supply...a waxy lanolin mix...interesting stuff.

ken

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hunterspistol posted this 23 January 2012

I just use whatever light oil on hand, then add a little choke tube lube (graphite).

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RicinYakima posted this 23 January 2012

I'll throw my 2 cents in here, only because I have 20 plus presses that only get used once in a while. If a press is going to be used, it gets cleaned with Ed's Red and paper towels. A light touch of RIG grease on the ram and pins. Use it until I  don't want to change dies; get another down and use it. Wipe off most the RIG on the first one and it goes back on the shelf.

I avoid graphite and moly because that comes off and stains everything when you use Ed's Red, which will float off everything thicker than the molecular level.

Barlow's Ideal Company had it right. “Oil the joints!” Most of the old presses I deal with are worn from dirt mixed with oil, i.e. lack of cleaning. Exactly the same as reloading dies! Filthy dirty!

FWIW, Ric

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onondaga posted this 23 January 2012

I lubricate my Lee Classic Cast Turret Press frequently. I use a patch of sweatshirt cloth with a few drops of Slick 50 on it, sometimes I use Marvel Mystery Oil also.

 My priming technique has me holding the handle lever rod and not the ball while wrapping my fingers around one of the press upright posts. I squeeze to seat primers.  This gives me an excellent feel for priming but will leave my finger prints and skin oil on the press, so I use the oiled patch thing after every session. I have no rust on those areas after a lot of loading over several years with this press. I oil the ram, linkage and other press areas the same way.

If you begin to get rough areas or rust starting, Try lightly steel wool rubbing then rub clean with an oiled patch.

Gary

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dodgyrog posted this 23 January 2012

I've used Fastex bullet lube to good effect.

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Johnny Breedlove posted this 23 January 2012

  • 1 for anachronism. Clean it up once in a while put on a little oil (any kind) wipe off the excess and go back to work, you can use too much oil as it collects dust and grime of all sorts.

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45ACPete posted this 23 January 2012

I just wipe on a little case sizing lube (Imperial) with my finger.

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greg posted this 29 January 2012

I regularly clean ram with either WD-40 or Ed's Red then lube with machine tool “way” oil. This oil seems to stay put better than most other oil and it's relativly inexpensive. I would venture a guess that automotive SAE 40, non-detergent would work just as well. Bought my Rockchucker press about 1972 and it has loaded many thousands of rounds and it shows no signs of wear or loosness. greg

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Four Fingers of Death posted this 17 March 2012

I've been using graphite grease on my Rockchucker since 1981 and when I wipe the ram clean, it looks like new. It has loaded thousands and thousands and thousands of rounds. I use engine oil on the pins, etc. Still like new. Don't make any mistakes with that graphite or your clothing will be ruined (well, even more stained than normal.

I have a pump spray bottle of Slick 50, I think I will convert to that when I put the press back on the bench as it is due for a clean. Engine oil should be fine, if it can handle 4000+ revs and lots of heat, it can handle us guys!

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