9mm auto??

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  • Last Post 24 September 2012
gussy posted this 17 November 2011

I'm kicking around a 9mm auto.  I would like some opinions on which auto feeds with lead best (without a gunsmith overhaul) and which bullets (mould??) works best.  Any problems with leading??  What is the most popular lube (size or tumble?)??  I've looked at several guns but really have no opinion on what I'm going to get.

I do have an old Luger which I rarely shoot (lousy trigger pull).  Again, which mould would work best for it??

These are just plinkers for home shooting, not social work.;)

 

:coffeeGus

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Duane Trusty posted this 17 November 2011

Gussy

I like my Ruger SR9, as I have small hands.

My favorite load in any 9x19 has been one that I believe Elmer Keith came up with.

Lyman 358311, Sized .357, with 3.0 of Bullseye.

This load has worked for me in the SR9, Browning High Power, Glock 17 & 19, 2 different S&W 39-2's,and a Marlin Camp Carbine. All without any special tuning or spring changes.

You might say this is “The Load” (Sorry Ed Harris for stealing your saying) for 9x19.

Duane Trusty

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PETE posted this 17 November 2011

Gus,

I've had good success with a RIA 1911A1 using the RCBS-9mm-124-RN bullet sized .356 with 3.3 grs. of BE. Won't say that, as Duane says, this is “The Load” yet. :)

Accuracy with the above load and the RIA using a two handed hold resting on the bench runs about 1 1/2". Nice light load that shoots just above point of aim and drops the brass in a nice pile right behind me. 3.5 grs of BE is slightly more accurate but puts the group about 2” high at 1 o'clock.

The RIA is still going thru load development, but in several hundred rounds thru it there hasn't been a bobble in feeding.

I use Javelin lube which is the NRA 50/50 formula and run them thru a Lyman luber-sizer. No leading.

Pete

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gussy posted this 17 November 2011

Thanks for the replys. My dealer has only a tarus in stock but is getting in some rugers next week. I haven't looked at any SW's but probably should.

I have a very hard time liking any plastic (other than grips) on a gun. I want all steel!!

I will also make the rounds to see if there's any deals on a used gun. No gun shows that I know of near here.

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raytear posted this 17 November 2011

I know of a P-08 manufactured in 1909 by DWM. It likes the Lyman ca. 125 grain bullet designed specifically for 9mm autos.     Sorry, I do not know the mould number. With a good spring in the magazine, it feeds just like jacketed stuff.  Same accuracy, too-------once you learn how to cope with the poor trigger pull.

Carefully constructed CB loads seem to me like a great way to use those older pistols without fear of wearing out or battering a relic of bygone days.  Some factory, jacketed 9mm I have seen is a mite stout.

Good shooting! RT

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hunterspistol posted this 18 November 2011

    I loaded a Lyman Devastator hollowpoint for my nine, S&W 5906.  It worked good.  I don't go for tumble lube.  I used a Lyman 4500 sizer and White Label's Carnuba Red.  Got pretty good results with 3.2 grains of Bullseye. 

    A light to medium crimp helps, you need just enough to make the case straight without a protruding edge at the case mouth. 

     Be careful with the nine in powder charges, it gets hot real quick.  I ended up pulling bullets at one point. 

    Good Luck,

            Ron

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shastaboat posted this 18 November 2011

My Ruger SR9 is the most reliable semi-auto pistol I've ever owned or shot. My daughter has one too and her's has never malfunctioned either. Both extremely accurate.

Because I said so!

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gunarea posted this 18 November 2011

Hey Gussy

   Little guns are a regular part of my shooting enjoyment. I've had or at least shot em all. As you have pointed out, 9mms aren't a favorite for serious social work, but as a plinker they only come second to a 22 cal for pure fun. What I have ended up with is a S&W 459 and a Hi-point. The S&W is a bit chubby in the grip due to high capacity magazine well, but has good sights and very accurate when fed what it likes. The Hi-point is almost ridiculously cheap for an American made gun with an unbelievable warranty. They handle my ammunition without any of the concerns towards leading and feeding that you expressed. I load 9mm ammo just up to where the firearm functions well. The jury is still out on a Contender project I am in the middle of. My intention is to use the small capacity 9mm case to serve as a reduced charge substitute for propelling a 160 gr cast silhouette bullet.

   All my 9mm handguns shoot a Lee cast 125 gr rn pushed with Bullseye, Red dot or Promo being the propellants I choose to employ. These have also been loaded with a 140 gr rn for use on some steel targets with marginal effectiveness, although still very accurate. My two auto 9s like slugs sized at .357 with a full ring of “Best lube” applied.

   Whatever you choose, be prepared to accommodate your 9 with some attention as to the bulleteering you will need to do in order for you both to be happy. Best of skill to you.

                                                                                                                     Roy

Shoot often, Shoot well

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gussy posted this 19 November 2011

In the dealers today going through his catalog. Some all metal types that I looked at: CZ, Desert Eagle, tarus, berreta. Opinions on these??

The Smiths listed are out of my price range for plinking. I still can't warm up to the idea of a plastic frame. I've worked too long in construction and have seen plastic “good forever” fail. The frames will too at some point.

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gunarea posted this 20 November 2011

Hey Gussy

   Baretta, Hi-point, Taurus and CZ have all come through my shop for repairs that would indicate heavy load failures. Actual experience with Magnum research does not extend to their 9mm model, although I can tell you any internal modifications will void the factory warranty. Local department store ammo seems to be hot enough to damage these guns when cycled through in bulk quantities. Taurus is by far the most inexpensive so far as individual parts and has a responsive service department. Hi-point is a metal auto loader with a send it back warranty. Kinda screws me for repair work but I own one now because of that deal. A local dealer handles Hi-point and there are literally thousands in my area. Of the dozen or so I have had come to me, only one got worked on by me and the factory rep supplied instructions along with a free part. No I don't have any professional ties or financial interest in Hi-point. It is a good, cheap gun. In my opinion and experience, good, functional ammunition, will not cause premature failure in any of the firearms mentioned.

hth                                                                                                                  Roy

Shoot often, Shoot well

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gussy posted this 20 November 2011

Thank you, that is the information I was looking for. :)

Actually, it will not see a tremendous amount of shooting and when I hand load with cast bullets, the loads will be just enough to function well.  It might get some factory loads until I get empties or buy some.

:coffeeGus

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shastaboat posted this 21 November 2011

Do yourself a favor and at least check out the Ruger SR9 before deciding. The magazine safety can also be easily removed so you can fire it without a mag installed. I've got smallish hands and the 17+1 grip with reversible backstrap fits my hand very well. I shoot primarily cast but have also loaded some very warm jacketed HP's and nothing I feed this pistol bothers it.

Because I said so!

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gussy posted this 23 November 2011

shastaboat wrote: Do yourself a favor and at least check out the Ruger SR9 before deciding. The magazine safety can also be easily removed so you can fire it without a mag installed. I've god smallish hands and the 17+1 grip with reversible backstrap fits my hand very well. I shoot primarily cast but have also loaded some very warm jacketed HP's and nothing I feed this pistol bothers it.

My dealer said he was getting in 4 of them on Mon (last Mon).  I went in to have a look and his order came in but they weren't in it!!  I am still looking.  There's a gun show in Spokane the second weekend in Dec.  I am planning on going if the weather is good for driving.

:coffeeGus

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shastaboat posted this 23 November 2011

Here is a listing for a VG used SR9 single tone color.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=260485321

Because I said so!

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hunterspistol posted this 24 November 2011

Yes, go with an American 9, they have metal to them.

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galenaholic posted this 24 November 2011

One of the first things I would do when the gun arrives is slug the bore. Nominally, 9MM's have a .356” bore. I guess nobody informed taurus, Ruger or Smith & Wesson of that fact as mine all have groove diameters od .357” ot slightly larger. The S&W is hard to measure because of their 5 groove barrels. Once I determined the groove diameter, I sized a bullet to .359” and made a dummy round tosee if it would chamber and still have enough room to expand i the chamber when fired. At least in my three guns that size is OK but if that dummy's neck is the same as a fired round, then .358” just might be the better way to go. For many years I've read that a cast bullet for 9MM should be sized to .356” and wondered why groups from various 9MMs were so crappy. I tried .357” and there was improvement, then .358” and it was even better and finally .359” which was as large as I was willing to go for my guns which were an S&W 6906, Taurus PT99 and a Ruger P85. The Taurus as a bit fussier about seating depth than the other two but once I got that figured out jams ceased to exist. Now I use the same seating depth for all three guns with no problems. My bullet of choice is the Lyman #356402, a truncated cone shaped bullet that nominally weighs 121 gr. in Lyman's alloy. Mine weigh right at 125 gr. and I load a fairly stiff charge of Unique. I'm not the greatest pistol shot in the world but my loads run right around 2” from a sandbag rest and hit to the same place as the jacketed ammo that's in the guns for serious social intercourse. :coffee FWIW, if I'm not carrying my S&W M60 .38 Spl., then I'm carrying the 6906. The Taurus and Ruger are just too darn bulky to conceal most of the year here in southern Arizona. Even during most of the winter long heavy coats or jackets just are not needed, even at night. Well, most of the time anyway. .>.>.>.> Paul B.

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gussy posted this 26 November 2011

I did see a Ruger Fri. It did not feel right in my hands. The grip didn't feel good and it was too light. The compact model was even worse.

Gun show in 2 weeks will allow me to see/feel probably every type I'm considering. Might buy one too.

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beerd posted this 29 December 2011

for plinking, has anyone tried the Lee 105gr SWC? ..

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303PV posted this 30 December 2011

Yes, 4.0 grs B'eye COL=26.5 mm Sellier & Bellot case W-W primer. I also tried 4.7 grs Accurate no 2. The pistol I used is a FN HP. The 105 grain Lee punches a nice round hole in the paper target.

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shastaboat posted this 30 December 2011

Add 18 rounds to that Ruger and carry it all day and then tell me how light or heavy it is. For CCW carry light is best. Also you can reverse the backstrap on the SR9.

Because I said so!

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gussy posted this 30 December 2011

I'm still kicking tires:D:D

Until I hold a few more brands, I'm holding off on buying.  I also still want steel as opposed to the current trend of plastic.  Steel is forever, plastic is for toys, rain gutters and car parts.....:shock:.... sorry, not in my guns!!!

:coffee

Gus

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shastaboat posted this 31 December 2011

Yea, that's what they said about the M16.

Because I said so!

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gussy posted this 31 December 2011

Humor an old fart. :D I worked construction for 40 yrs.  The stuff with plastic parts failed.  With hard/abusive use and sunlight, plastic will fail at some point.  I don't want a failure in my hand.  M16?? I had one in my hands in VN....

:coffeeGus

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gussy posted this 24 January 2012

I'm still kicking tires.  My dealer cannot seem to find a blued Baretta.

He did get in a CZ 75.  I need feed back on this pistol if anyone has one.  It's a close copy of the Baretta with not as good of a finish.

I would like to know how they hold up and also how's resale on a CZ.  I've always used resale as a measure and as a guide if I want to move it along if I'm not happy with it.

:coffee  Gus

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tturner53 posted this 24 January 2012

The CZ75 is a very very good pistol. Read up on Jeff Cooper and his take on the CZ. It was purpose built as a battle weapon. There are Italian made clones that are very popular, Tanfoglios. My old TA90 has won me some competitions, has had thousands of rounds thru it without any failures or problems. The Israeli Defense Forces used to issue their version of the CZ75, may still use it for all I know. If it's good enough for the IDF you know it's a dependable weapon, they don't fool around.

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gussy posted this 27 January 2012

Well, the CZ 75 B followed me home yesterday. It felt right in my hands. About the same as the Beretta.  It seems to be very well made with a good tight action.  The only down side is the creep on the trigger.   

I haven't fired it yet.  I need to make a target frame for the 50yd location. I will also make a gong for that distance.

I noticed last night that I'd forgotten to get a shell holder for the 9mm case.  I guess I won't be doing any loading until I get to a gun shop 40 miles from here, which won't be for a few days.

Thanks for all the input.:dude:

:coffeeGus

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tturner53 posted this 27 January 2012

I ran across a good old article on using cast bullets in the 9mm in The Fouling Shot #142 by Steven Hurst. Pretty thorough. It's not an easy one for cb success but there's some things to know to get the best results. Probably a look thru TFS index will turn up more info. Mr. Hurst's main point was bullet selection. He designed a bullet and NEI made him a nice 4 cavity mold, #116C. My own efforts with the 9mm have been 'sporadic'. The typically high pressures and various manufacturers dimensions make it more of a quest.

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giorgio de galleani posted this 27 January 2012

The 9 mm is a jacketed bullets caliber.It is made for shooting steel bullets and cases in submachineguns. It is only cheap to reload,I usually find  buckets of free spent cases ,at my gun club.

High pressure,unsuitable rifling twist  (1-10) and wrong diameter  cast bullets (355-356)  cause leading inaccuracy and keyholing.

You may have decent results with water quenched ww ,bullets on the heavy side (130-150 grs ) sizing them 357 or 358,cuttig some spires from the spring,and keeping loada under 900 fps.

The 38 superauto in a 911 is another world. 

Not to mention the 45ACP,,.

 

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shastaboat posted this 28 January 2012

The 9mm is a jacketed bullets caliber? Boy that's a new one on me. And they have too fast a twist to stabelize cast bullets and cause leading and keyholing. Bullets cast of wheelweight need to be water quenched (hardened) and be heavy 130 to 150 gr, sized .357 or .358 etc...

Gee no wonder my Fiat 124 Spider is always breaking down...it must be that American made WW is harder than Italian made WW, AC spark plugs must be inferior, and American tires don't fit right. Give me a break.....

Because I said so!

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giorgio de galleani posted this 28 January 2012

There is an old article onone of Wolfe's magazines by Ed Harris that explains all the problems involved .

I can email it to you,give me your  email address.

He used with success match barrels by Bar Sto with the same twist of 38 special.

A leged says that there were lead Barrels made here in Italy ,by Mr Piscetta ,but I could not find them.

Our old wheel weights are not  so lousy ,I used them with water quenchig to shoot a Chinese M14 in semiauto  at 300 metes.

Lynotype gas chech  125 gr. bullets from an old RCBS mould shot decently in an old Tanfoglio pistol I had.While Lyman 356402 in WW ,sized to 356 key hole frquently.

I am a lousy shooter ,but I had problems in hitting all the plates at a steel challenge last year with a Browning HP 9x21. I am preparing a 911 in superauto ,this year ,for April the 1st.

The only plus of the 9 mm ,to me , is that brass being free,I can afford to abandon it on the ground at matches were you are not allowed to pick it up,

Incidentally ,being quite a cannibal,I use 9x21 cases in a 38 super barrel ,just size them in a 38 super die and headspace on the bullet front band.

Some of the 9mm and 38 bullets I use

 

 

I have quit using Italian made cars long ago,they were not durable ,100000 or 150000kilometers at the most.

 

 

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Lefty posted this 28 January 2012

AAAAHHHH shoot. I am too late since Gus has already purchased his new gun. Here is my 2 cents anyhow. I have a Hi-Power and a CZ85. I like the Browning for paper and I keep the CZ loaded with Spanish mil-surp for a self defense gun. My shooting buddy has a SR9 and my brother shoots a P95. If I could own only one 9MM it would likely be the P95. I know it is really ugly but it works! Feeds anything and is quite accurate. Which is the nicest gun - the Browning, but I don't shoot it as well.

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shastaboat posted this 28 January 2012

giorgio, I think the Lyman 356402 keyholes because most seating die stems do not match the nose section. When you seat this bullet the bullet has a tendency to seat at an angle. I've had very good accuracy with LEE's 356-120-TC. Also 356-102-1R. Lee's 356-124-TC has a similar nose shape to Lymans 356402 which I think has caused the problem with inaccurate 9mm shooting. The other bullets you show in your picture appear to be designed for 38 Special/357 Magnum chambered weapons. I personally find that I can use wheelweight metal in all handgun calibers without any hardning techniques. I also shoot straight wheelweight in rifle calibers up to 2200 fps quite successfully with gas check bullets. I do freeze my fresh cast bullets for 24 hours and age harden them for at least 90 days before shooting. I'd suggest you re-try 9mm with a proper bullet and you might be surprised at how well they can shoot.

Letting the bullet seating determine headspacing in a 9mm case fired in a 38 super barrel is certainly an incorrect method of shooting and would not promote any accuracy.

I'd like to hear from anyone who has had satisfactory results in 9mm with cast bullets. I have had as good of results as 45ACP rimless case.

Because I said so!

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tturner53 posted this 28 January 2012

Then there's the 9mm revolvers. I have an old RBH .357 with a 9mm cylinder I fitted to it. No tack driver but a great way to take advantage of unlimited free brass. Free is nice.

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303PV posted this 29 January 2012

A 9mm Rvolver the FN Barracuda. Quite accurate. It has 2 cylinders .357 and 9mm. http://world.guns.ru/handguns/double-action-revolvers/be/fn-barracuda-e.html.

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Gene posted this 13 April 2012

Duane,

 

What is your OAL on “the Load'"

Thanks,

Gene

I've got some Lee 158 TL/SWC resized .357 for my revolvers that I want to try in my ole Smith.  If I can get it in the magazine that sorry ole Smith will feed it !!!

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giorgio de galleani posted this 14 April 2012

The trick of headspacing auto cartridges with the forward band of the bullet is not an invention of mine,it was on an article of the ancient NRA cast bullet booklet ,Edited and writted by Colonel Harrison.

It was on a story abot reloading match wad cutters in the 45acp,for bullseye competition.

Having foolishly bulged my 38 superauto barrel,(never shoot another round on an obstruction) I went back to the 9x21.

I got decent results on the steel plates with hard old WheelWeights,and no sizing using the Lee tumble lube 124 grainer.

I have now got a Spartan STI 911 clone ,that sports an US match chamber and a 1/16 twist barrel.Absolutely wonderful,no leading and 20-30 % tighter groups. This STI 911 likes bullets sized .3575,as they come out from a Lee die marked .358.

The problem is the european and Nato tight twist,made for penetrating steel bullets,coupled with cavernous  and short throats. 

while the American civilian twist is ideal for lead.( 1/16)

At least this is my present opinion, always open to discussion ,and ready to change it.

And let me say again that no auto pistol ,revolver or semiauto carbine is better than the venerable 45ACP.Great accuracy and power,if you do not need a 44 Mag.

It costs more to shoot , bigger bullets and primers,,and you must collect  all the brass,I believe that in certain ranges , when I shoot the 45,there are nefarious characters armed with butterfly nets ,stealing good 45ACP,when they are still in the air. 

I was able to hit all theese plates.with the browning HP35.

Many people are much speedier ,with Jacketed nines.

Horrible jacketed bullets,what a shame.

 

 

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shastaboat posted this 15 April 2012

I finally decided to break in my new Lee gang mold 9mm flat nose, bevel base. This is the first Lee gang mold I've ever used. I started casting without cleaning or smoking the blocks. I just couldn't get that mold to cast a decent bullet. OK, I let it cool and then used some spray brake cleaner on the blocks and allowed them to dry. Then I did just what Lee recommended and smoked the cavities heavily with just a wooden match. When I returned to casting it only took about 3 cast attempts to start throwing perfectly formed bullets. I use an ancient Saeco bottom poor with a mold rest so it took a bit of getting used to to make a good clean poor without over pouring. I ended up using an individual cavity poor to make all cavities cast well. For pistol casting I'm really sold on the Lee gang molds now. Wish they had a good 215 gr 44 cal GC mold like Lyman 429215.

Because I said so!

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giorgio de galleani posted this 15 April 2012

Welcome on board,dear Shastaboat,the Lee 6 cavity moulds are a pleasure to work with,and the  liquid alox lubing system is wonderful ( actually I am using Xlox from Lestuff).

While I do not like single or double cavity Lee moulds,I like very much the & cav moulds,and their sturdier alignement pins and the sprue cutting plate.Modified as per instructions of a Cba member.

I too would like a 200-215  tumble lube mould ,with a nose compatible with feeding in leveraction carbines,without gas checks ,I wonder if Ranchdog might design one.

There is a cowboy style ,traditional lube in that weight,but I have little experience about them.

Getting back on this 9mm subject,I must say that the truncated cone tumble lube 124 Lee mould ,used with large diameters and hard wheel weights,has given me decent accuracy,sufficient for the Steel Challenge..

Actually I am too lazy to quench my ww bullets,that would be a practical hardening system.

And of course praise to the rifling twist and match chamber and the long magazine of the venerable 911 that permits seating the bullets longer than the 9mm luger or 9x21 specs.

Read the Sierra reloading  manual edition V,in the 9x21 chapter.

Every combo of cartridge and pistol is a law unto herself ,and you have to experiment ,looking at the bullet speed,recoil orce,recoil spring force and actual lenght of throat ,and its diameter. The help of the so called factory crimp  pistol die by Lee is great ,to get ammo that feeds well at the largest allowable diameters.

I follow the practice to use the fattest bullet that feeds smoothly in the chamber.

I  have made peace with the 9 mm,because it is cheap to shoot,but staying away from european and military barrels .

 

 

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tominct posted this 15 April 2012

It's been a looong tome since I loaded and fired cast in a 9mm. The one I did have god luck with was an older? Browning, commander style hammer. At the time there was an issue of leading with 120+or- grain weight bullets.

An article was published and loading info available from Alberts using 158 gr RNL for 38 special. IIRC 3.0 grs. Bullseye or 3.5 grs. Unique worked well. Good groups, no leading. Good groups meaning 3-4” at 25 yards. I believe the bullet used was a Lyman commercial cast number.

The lighter charge with the heavier bullet functioned well. No leading because the velocity was lower, under 900 fps.

I'll look around to see if i have the Alberts loading info. Alberts BTW, was a commercial firm in the 1980's or so that made some real nice swaged lead for pistol and rifle calibers. Unfortunately closed shortly thereafter.

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whtsmoke posted this 20 May 2012

I have some old moulds one of which is the old Wilder design ideal brought out and Lyman continued for a bit before discontinuing it. I like to try it in the 9mm as I think it might be pretty good. Its a 150 grain swc, I have loaded a few dummy rounds andit does cycle thru the gun. the loads for the 147 grain bullet are pretty low so case capicty is not an issue. Whats everyones take on this venture?

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hunterspistol posted this 20 May 2012

:coffee      I heard of heavyweights in a 9mm, it can work.  Might be a good project to load and collect info on. 

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delmarskid1 posted this 20 May 2012

I load 140's in my 9mm Largo. I use 9mm parabellum data.

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CB posted this 21 May 2012

I've been using Lyman 358156 without a gascheck in 9mm. The profile of the bullet closely approximates Hornadys 147 JHP. I'm still doing load development, but it seems to work well in my XDs.

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Gene posted this 21 May 2012

9 mm Range Report  S&W 5906   5-21-12

10 rds of Lee 158 swc/tl  sized .357  (for my revolver) 2.9 BE  col 1.08  very minute leading past FC functioned pistol OK

50 rds Hornady 140 LFP .358  2.9 BE col 1.085 functioned pistol OK very minor leading past FC.  I believe my bore is .356 to .357 and I believe the leading was a result of 8 rds shaving a little lead when they were seated.  Mixed brand cases and I thought all were belled the same”€apparently nit!  Tried to check for accuracy too, but was having a hard time picking up my front sight and battling the 5906's trigger”¦.

25 rds magnus  122 FP .356  4.0 / 231  col  1.10 some of the lube groove was showing which was as long as my barrel would take.  (I had earlier tried col 1.05 but they leaded almost the entire length of barrel)  Minor leading for about ¾ in past FC.  Functioned pistol ok and I didn't check for accuracy

10 rds magnus  122 FP .356  3.5 / 231  col  1.10  functioned pistol ok, but still minor leading past FC ??  I wasn”t  sure if this load would function the pistol reliably and hoping to eliminate leading Findings so far, seat bullet as far into the barrel leade as possible and need at least .3575 to .358  bullets.   I will cast some of my own bullets to get the wider diameter

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Gene posted this 23 May 2012

Went to my local hobbyshop the other day looking for a new toy!

First, NO steel or aluminum frame 9's in stock.  The clerk stated, “No body wants one so we don't carry 'em".

The pistols I looked at were, SR 9, M&P 9, and G19.

The M&P 9 had the best feel and looks.  The SR 9 was next with the G19 last.

The SR 9 had the best trigger with the G19 second, the M&P 9 has too much overtravel for me.

Since there have been some issues with the SR 9 and M&P 9 not resetting, I paid particular attention to the sound of the striker when the pistol was fired.....The G19 slammed home with authority.  The SR 9 was next and the M&P 9 was barely audible!!

Glock has had some issues with the Gen 4 especially the G19 not ejecting properly, but I believe since Nov '11 all new guns have different springs.

The SR 9 and M&P 9 have cut rifled barrels, so theoretically they should shoot CB's with no problem.  The G19 would have to have a replacement barrel to safely shoot CB's.  ( I have previously owned two G19's and shot a couple thousand CB's thru them with no leading problems--but the possible threat of problems caused me to trade them !!!)

Gene

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Gene posted this 25 May 2012

 

S&W  5906    5-25-12

25  rds  Lee 158 LSWC/TL .357 LLA  2.8/BE (#2)  +/- 1.12  some leading just past FC

            Bullets not stabilizing as 4 went in at 15 yds completely sideways

Might try 3.0/BE and resize bullets to .358”¦”¦.

 

25  rds Hornady 140 FP  .358   2.8/BE +/- 1.10  Lee factory crimped .380

Appear to be accurate ”€œ all bullets stabilized

*  NO  LEADING **  Might try 3.0/BE as I want just a little more recoil !

Gene

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Spud posted this 27 July 2012

I can recommend the Ruger SR9c. Mine feeds any and all profiles, incl. HP, whether cast or not. Just got the Lee 125 gr. RNFP mold (6 cav.)intended for 38/357 and this bullet works perfectly in this gun. Not so good in my S&W M659. Shorter throat and maybe tighter chamber. OAL must be very short to chamber in the latter and that's shorter than I'm comfortable with. I reduce loads below the starting loads for this gun with this bullet.

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EdS posted this 24 September 2012

I just picked up a used, like-new, S&W Model 3913, 9mm compact. The only cast bullets I currently have in “9mm” (.355"-.356")are some 120 grain round nose that I found at a local gunshow. They fed perfectly and shot nice groups at 15 yards when loaded in front of 3.0 gr. 700x. They grouped a little low, and I'm looking to try some heavier cast bullets. Per this thread, I can strongly recommend an S&W 3913 if you find a nice one used. -Ed

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