9mm auto??

  • 9.9K Views
  • Last Post 24 September 2012
gussy posted this 17 November 2011

I'm kicking around a 9mm auto.  I would like some opinions on which auto feeds with lead best (without a gunsmith overhaul) and which bullets (mould??) works best.  Any problems with leading??  What is the most popular lube (size or tumble?)??  I've looked at several guns but really have no opinion on what I'm going to get.

I do have an old Luger which I rarely shoot (lousy trigger pull).  Again, which mould would work best for it??

These are just plinkers for home shooting, not social work.;)

 

:coffeeGus

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
EdS posted this 24 September 2012

I just picked up a used, like-new, S&W Model 3913, 9mm compact. The only cast bullets I currently have in “9mm” (.355"-.356")are some 120 grain round nose that I found at a local gunshow. They fed perfectly and shot nice groups at 15 yards when loaded in front of 3.0 gr. 700x. They grouped a little low, and I'm looking to try some heavier cast bullets. Per this thread, I can strongly recommend an S&W 3913 if you find a nice one used. -Ed

Attached Files

Spud posted this 27 July 2012

I can recommend the Ruger SR9c. Mine feeds any and all profiles, incl. HP, whether cast or not. Just got the Lee 125 gr. RNFP mold (6 cav.)intended for 38/357 and this bullet works perfectly in this gun. Not so good in my S&W M659. Shorter throat and maybe tighter chamber. OAL must be very short to chamber in the latter and that's shorter than I'm comfortable with. I reduce loads below the starting loads for this gun with this bullet.

Attached Files

Gene posted this 25 May 2012

 

S&W  5906    5-25-12

25  rds  Lee 158 LSWC/TL .357 LLA  2.8/BE (#2)  +/- 1.12  some leading just past FC

            Bullets not stabilizing as 4 went in at 15 yds completely sideways

Might try 3.0/BE and resize bullets to .358”¦”¦.

 

25  rds Hornady 140 FP  .358   2.8/BE +/- 1.10  Lee factory crimped .380

Appear to be accurate ”€œ all bullets stabilized

*  NO  LEADING **  Might try 3.0/BE as I want just a little more recoil !

Gene

Attached Files

Gene posted this 23 May 2012

Went to my local hobbyshop the other day looking for a new toy!

First, NO steel or aluminum frame 9's in stock.  The clerk stated, “No body wants one so we don't carry 'em".

The pistols I looked at were, SR 9, M&P 9, and G19.

The M&P 9 had the best feel and looks.  The SR 9 was next with the G19 last.

The SR 9 had the best trigger with the G19 second, the M&P 9 has too much overtravel for me.

Since there have been some issues with the SR 9 and M&P 9 not resetting, I paid particular attention to the sound of the striker when the pistol was fired.....The G19 slammed home with authority.  The SR 9 was next and the M&P 9 was barely audible!!

Glock has had some issues with the Gen 4 especially the G19 not ejecting properly, but I believe since Nov '11 all new guns have different springs.

The SR 9 and M&P 9 have cut rifled barrels, so theoretically they should shoot CB's with no problem.  The G19 would have to have a replacement barrel to safely shoot CB's.  ( I have previously owned two G19's and shot a couple thousand CB's thru them with no leading problems--but the possible threat of problems caused me to trade them !!!)

Gene

Attached Files

Gene posted this 21 May 2012

9 mm Range Report  S&W 5906   5-21-12

10 rds of Lee 158 swc/tl  sized .357  (for my revolver) 2.9 BE  col 1.08  very minute leading past FC functioned pistol OK

50 rds Hornady 140 LFP .358  2.9 BE col 1.085 functioned pistol OK very minor leading past FC.  I believe my bore is .356 to .357 and I believe the leading was a result of 8 rds shaving a little lead when they were seated.  Mixed brand cases and I thought all were belled the same”€apparently nit!  Tried to check for accuracy too, but was having a hard time picking up my front sight and battling the 5906's trigger”¦.

25 rds magnus  122 FP .356  4.0 / 231  col  1.10 some of the lube groove was showing which was as long as my barrel would take.  (I had earlier tried col 1.05 but they leaded almost the entire length of barrel)  Minor leading for about ¾ in past FC.  Functioned pistol ok and I didn't check for accuracy

10 rds magnus  122 FP .356  3.5 / 231  col  1.10  functioned pistol ok, but still minor leading past FC ??  I wasn”t  sure if this load would function the pistol reliably and hoping to eliminate leading Findings so far, seat bullet as far into the barrel leade as possible and need at least .3575 to .358  bullets.   I will cast some of my own bullets to get the wider diameter

Attached Files

CB posted this 21 May 2012

I've been using Lyman 358156 without a gascheck in 9mm. The profile of the bullet closely approximates Hornadys 147 JHP. I'm still doing load development, but it seems to work well in my XDs.

Attached Files

delmarskid1 posted this 20 May 2012

I load 140's in my 9mm Largo. I use 9mm parabellum data.

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 20 May 2012

:coffee      I heard of heavyweights in a 9mm, it can work.  Might be a good project to load and collect info on. 

Attached Files

whtsmoke posted this 20 May 2012

I have some old moulds one of which is the old Wilder design ideal brought out and Lyman continued for a bit before discontinuing it. I like to try it in the 9mm as I think it might be pretty good. Its a 150 grain swc, I have loaded a few dummy rounds andit does cycle thru the gun. the loads for the 147 grain bullet are pretty low so case capicty is not an issue. Whats everyones take on this venture?

Attached Files

tominct posted this 15 April 2012

It's been a looong tome since I loaded and fired cast in a 9mm. The one I did have god luck with was an older? Browning, commander style hammer. At the time there was an issue of leading with 120+or- grain weight bullets.

An article was published and loading info available from Alberts using 158 gr RNL for 38 special. IIRC 3.0 grs. Bullseye or 3.5 grs. Unique worked well. Good groups, no leading. Good groups meaning 3-4” at 25 yards. I believe the bullet used was a Lyman commercial cast number.

The lighter charge with the heavier bullet functioned well. No leading because the velocity was lower, under 900 fps.

I'll look around to see if i have the Alberts loading info. Alberts BTW, was a commercial firm in the 1980's or so that made some real nice swaged lead for pistol and rifle calibers. Unfortunately closed shortly thereafter.

Attached Files

giorgio de galleani posted this 15 April 2012

Welcome on board,dear Shastaboat,the Lee 6 cavity moulds are a pleasure to work with,and the  liquid alox lubing system is wonderful ( actually I am using Xlox from Lestuff).

While I do not like single or double cavity Lee moulds,I like very much the & cav moulds,and their sturdier alignement pins and the sprue cutting plate.Modified as per instructions of a Cba member.

I too would like a 200-215  tumble lube mould ,with a nose compatible with feeding in leveraction carbines,without gas checks ,I wonder if Ranchdog might design one.

There is a cowboy style ,traditional lube in that weight,but I have little experience about them.

Getting back on this 9mm subject,I must say that the truncated cone tumble lube 124 Lee mould ,used with large diameters and hard wheel weights,has given me decent accuracy,sufficient for the Steel Challenge..

Actually I am too lazy to quench my ww bullets,that would be a practical hardening system.

And of course praise to the rifling twist and match chamber and the long magazine of the venerable 911 that permits seating the bullets longer than the 9mm luger or 9x21 specs.

Read the Sierra reloading  manual edition V,in the 9x21 chapter.

Every combo of cartridge and pistol is a law unto herself ,and you have to experiment ,looking at the bullet speed,recoil orce,recoil spring force and actual lenght of throat ,and its diameter. The help of the so called factory crimp  pistol die by Lee is great ,to get ammo that feeds well at the largest allowable diameters.

I follow the practice to use the fattest bullet that feeds smoothly in the chamber.

I  have made peace with the 9 mm,because it is cheap to shoot,but staying away from european and military barrels .

 

 

Attached Files

shastaboat posted this 15 April 2012

I finally decided to break in my new Lee gang mold 9mm flat nose, bevel base. This is the first Lee gang mold I've ever used. I started casting without cleaning or smoking the blocks. I just couldn't get that mold to cast a decent bullet. OK, I let it cool and then used some spray brake cleaner on the blocks and allowed them to dry. Then I did just what Lee recommended and smoked the cavities heavily with just a wooden match. When I returned to casting it only took about 3 cast attempts to start throwing perfectly formed bullets. I use an ancient Saeco bottom poor with a mold rest so it took a bit of getting used to to make a good clean poor without over pouring. I ended up using an individual cavity poor to make all cavities cast well. For pistol casting I'm really sold on the Lee gang molds now. Wish they had a good 215 gr 44 cal GC mold like Lyman 429215.

Because I said so!

Attached Files

giorgio de galleani posted this 14 April 2012

The trick of headspacing auto cartridges with the forward band of the bullet is not an invention of mine,it was on an article of the ancient NRA cast bullet booklet ,Edited and writted by Colonel Harrison.

It was on a story abot reloading match wad cutters in the 45acp,for bullseye competition.

Having foolishly bulged my 38 superauto barrel,(never shoot another round on an obstruction) I went back to the 9x21.

I got decent results on the steel plates with hard old WheelWeights,and no sizing using the Lee tumble lube 124 grainer.

I have now got a Spartan STI 911 clone ,that sports an US match chamber and a 1/16 twist barrel.Absolutely wonderful,no leading and 20-30 % tighter groups. This STI 911 likes bullets sized .3575,as they come out from a Lee die marked .358.

The problem is the european and Nato tight twist,made for penetrating steel bullets,coupled with cavernous  and short throats. 

while the American civilian twist is ideal for lead.( 1/16)

At least this is my present opinion, always open to discussion ,and ready to change it.

And let me say again that no auto pistol ,revolver or semiauto carbine is better than the venerable 45ACP.Great accuracy and power,if you do not need a 44 Mag.

It costs more to shoot , bigger bullets and primers,,and you must collect  all the brass,I believe that in certain ranges , when I shoot the 45,there are nefarious characters armed with butterfly nets ,stealing good 45ACP,when they are still in the air. 

I was able to hit all theese plates.with the browning HP35.

Many people are much speedier ,with Jacketed nines.

Horrible jacketed bullets,what a shame.

 

 

Attached Files

Gene posted this 13 April 2012

Duane,

 

What is your OAL on “the Load'"

Thanks,

Gene

I've got some Lee 158 TL/SWC resized .357 for my revolvers that I want to try in my ole Smith.  If I can get it in the magazine that sorry ole Smith will feed it !!!

Attached Files

303PV posted this 29 January 2012

A 9mm Rvolver the FN Barracuda. Quite accurate. It has 2 cylinders .357 and 9mm. http://world.guns.ru/handguns/double-action-revolvers/be/fn-barracuda-e.html.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 28 January 2012

Then there's the 9mm revolvers. I have an old RBH .357 with a 9mm cylinder I fitted to it. No tack driver but a great way to take advantage of unlimited free brass. Free is nice.

Attached Files

shastaboat posted this 28 January 2012

giorgio, I think the Lyman 356402 keyholes because most seating die stems do not match the nose section. When you seat this bullet the bullet has a tendency to seat at an angle. I've had very good accuracy with LEE's 356-120-TC. Also 356-102-1R. Lee's 356-124-TC has a similar nose shape to Lymans 356402 which I think has caused the problem with inaccurate 9mm shooting. The other bullets you show in your picture appear to be designed for 38 Special/357 Magnum chambered weapons. I personally find that I can use wheelweight metal in all handgun calibers without any hardning techniques. I also shoot straight wheelweight in rifle calibers up to 2200 fps quite successfully with gas check bullets. I do freeze my fresh cast bullets for 24 hours and age harden them for at least 90 days before shooting. I'd suggest you re-try 9mm with a proper bullet and you might be surprised at how well they can shoot.

Letting the bullet seating determine headspacing in a 9mm case fired in a 38 super barrel is certainly an incorrect method of shooting and would not promote any accuracy.

I'd like to hear from anyone who has had satisfactory results in 9mm with cast bullets. I have had as good of results as 45ACP rimless case.

Because I said so!

Attached Files

Lefty posted this 28 January 2012

AAAAHHHH shoot. I am too late since Gus has already purchased his new gun. Here is my 2 cents anyhow. I have a Hi-Power and a CZ85. I like the Browning for paper and I keep the CZ loaded with Spanish mil-surp for a self defense gun. My shooting buddy has a SR9 and my brother shoots a P95. If I could own only one 9MM it would likely be the P95. I know it is really ugly but it works! Feeds anything and is quite accurate. Which is the nicest gun - the Browning, but I don't shoot it as well.

Attached Files

giorgio de galleani posted this 28 January 2012

There is an old article onone of Wolfe's magazines by Ed Harris that explains all the problems involved .

I can email it to you,give me your  email address.

He used with success match barrels by Bar Sto with the same twist of 38 special.

A leged says that there were lead Barrels made here in Italy ,by Mr Piscetta ,but I could not find them.

Our old wheel weights are not  so lousy ,I used them with water quenchig to shoot a Chinese M14 in semiauto  at 300 metes.

Lynotype gas chech  125 gr. bullets from an old RCBS mould shot decently in an old Tanfoglio pistol I had.While Lyman 356402 in WW ,sized to 356 key hole frquently.

I am a lousy shooter ,but I had problems in hitting all the plates at a steel challenge last year with a Browning HP 9x21. I am preparing a 911 in superauto ,this year ,for April the 1st.

The only plus of the 9 mm ,to me , is that brass being free,I can afford to abandon it on the ground at matches were you are not allowed to pick it up,

Incidentally ,being quite a cannibal,I use 9x21 cases in a 38 super barrel ,just size them in a 38 super die and headspace on the bullet front band.

Some of the 9mm and 38 bullets I use

 

 

I have quit using Italian made cars long ago,they were not durable ,100000 or 150000kilometers at the most.

 

 

Attached Files

shastaboat posted this 28 January 2012

The 9mm is a jacketed bullets caliber? Boy that's a new one on me. And they have too fast a twist to stabelize cast bullets and cause leading and keyholing. Bullets cast of wheelweight need to be water quenched (hardened) and be heavy 130 to 150 gr, sized .357 or .358 etc...

Gee no wonder my Fiat 124 Spider is always breaking down...it must be that American made WW is harder than Italian made WW, AC spark plugs must be inferior, and American tires don't fit right. Give me a break.....

Because I said so!

Attached Files

Show More Posts
Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close