question re lubersizers???

  • 4.2K Views
  • Last Post 23 August 2012
1kshooter posted this 23 June 2011

I am haveing not so much luck with pan lube and I am thinking about buying a Lyman cast master kit that has the new 4500 model and #4 manual,dip casting pot ,ladel,GC attachment and a Ingot tray for $197 Canadian ...first off are they any good?

and more importantly ...I am curantly loading just 45-70Gov but I have a few diferant molds ..mostly round flat nose as it will be shot through a Marlin...do I need a top punch for each mold or will one that is for round flat nose do for all round flat 45-70 bullets?

I can see that it calls for a #191 for my 405gr Lyman but I cant see what I need for my Lee molds ..405gr RFNHB and 340grRFN also Lee500grRFN GC!

I don't mind having an extra melter around for smelting but I would not me able to justify the extra cash for a new toppunch for each diferent mold!

I also want to load fo .44mag and posably 357mag as I acuire more levers to cast for

 

Thanks so much for your help as I have a store that I can get what I need minus any wisdom on the product!

Thanks again Jonathan

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
linoww posted this 23 June 2011

The Lee Tumble lube sizing kits works very well.If you dont need to size just order the Lee liquid Alox,its easier than pan lubing ans as accurate i believe.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

Attached Files

CB posted this 23 June 2011

Many people simply use a plain flat top punches. One size fits all, at least for flat point bullets. With the misalignment potential for this style of sizer, flat punches were all I used when I ran Lyman sizers.

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 15 February 2012

Always used a 1/4” hex head bolt for all my flat nosed bullets. Just grind the head smooth (get rid of the grade marks). Works just fine.

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 15 February 2012

:cool:    Is the Lyman Master Casting kit any good? I bought it twice!  I have two kits and find that I make a lot of ammo with it.  The 4500 lubersizer has a hole in the casting for a pin type heater that I love. 

      Combined with Carnuba Red, I load for 41 magnum and 44 Special.  I also load 9mm, 32-20, 32 magnum, and 22 Hornet.  I spend weekend afternoon making batches of bullet that run from 250-350 after culling and inspection. 

    It's a great kit, and combined with the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual, it's even better. 

     Buy it soon, the price keeps climbing with inflation.

   PS: Mine sits on the same bench as a pair of RockChuckers, it's in good  company!

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 15 February 2012

I have two of the Lyman 4500's as well as an old Lyman 45 which is the same basic design .

 

Anyway the two 4500's have worked nicely for me and I have electrode heaters in them both .

 

However I have had problems with them both !

The older one had a problem with the fine threads in the main casting for the little nut that holds the die in place . Lyman didn't wanna make good on a replacement casting so I rethreaded it and made a new locking nut with more coarse threads .

While all that was going on I bought the second 4500 to keep myself in buisness . That one has seen fit to snap the dogleg in the linkage 4 or 5 times . And no I do not have an extended handle or anythign like that and NO I"M NOT HERCULES !

 

I'm gonna call Lyman again in the next couple days and see about some more dogleg links for this thing and if it keeps it up I may just change to a RCBS Lubrisizer and a Lyman heater plate underneath !

Attached Files

1kshooter posted this 15 February 2012

thanks folks for all the replys, i think that I am going to grab one as soon as I have some coin flowing in instead of out for a change!

I am so impressed at the sight of 6pt-sika's blue angel lubed Ranch dog 45-70 and .44mag/.444 bullets that I feel inspired to give it a whirl!

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 15 February 2012

1kshooter wrote: I am so impressed at the sight of 6pt-sika's blue angel lubed Ranch dog 45-70 and .44mag/.444 bullets that I feel inspired to give it a whirl!

There's nothing wrong with the Lee or White Label Liquid Alox as Ranch Dog has well proven . However I like hard lube that needs heat better . And my reason for liking it is mainly based on the fact that it just looks better on the bullet to me . Now I am sure someone will come on here telling me I don't need what I'm using and give me nine zillion reasons why I should use liquid alox or Tom's used car lot Quaker State lube or something . But it doesn't matter I'll just keep on using Blue Angel , RCBS Rifle or possibly the White Label 2500 or 2700 .

But never base your decision on something I have done or am doing . I've been known to WASTE a fair amount of funding in my time .>

Attached Files

1kshooter posted this 15 February 2012

Thanks bro...I am able to get Lyman's line up of lube localy have you used any of them? ..any good? I was thinking of the moly lube or there hig proformance Orange Magic...the NRA Alox lube looks ok to?

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 15 February 2012

1kshooter wrote: Thanks bro...I am able to get Lyman's line up of lube localy have you used any of them? ..any good? I was thinking of the moly lube or there hig proformance Orange Magic...the NRA Alox lube looks ok to?

I still have both tubes of the Moly lube that came with my 4500's . And don't ever plan on using that stuff !

 

Consensus from the big time benchrest jacketed bullet shooters in these parts is , DO NOT PUT IN MOLY COATED BULLETS IN YORU RIFLES !

They claim that stuff will build up even with normal cleaning and it is a biatch to get out once you realize it's there !

 

I used the two tubes of Lyman Ornage I recieved with the 4500's and they worked nicely !

 

I got started on Thompson's Blue Angel because a guy in New Hampshire I used to by used molds from sold the stuff in bulk sort of ! He'd sell me a 12” tube of it for about what I paid for the normal sized tube at dealer cost . So each time I bought a mold from him I'd get 2 or 4 of his sticks and they would just be put in the box with the molds no extra shipping .Well of course he used a larger box when he added the lube but it added little to the shipping cost and was a bargain .

Attached Files

1kshooter posted this 16 February 2012

ah molly love it or hate it...lol I have shot thousands of mollyed rounds with out a hitch in the long range J bullet game...I had a smith tell me the same thing so I let him bore scope my tac rig and he said well I can see it in there and if you keep using it you will kill your barrel faster then shooting steel bullets! I cuckeled and handed him my log book for that gun and it had over 15 thousand rounds through it and I got it from the police armory..used!! but just for one rang training course about 500 rounds give or take! I still shoot that gun and although it now shoots 1/2"@100 instead of 1/4” it still has a lot of life in it....the tac smith that I chum with checked it over and said that it is not the barrel at all but the chamber that is showing a little erossion and that I should let him wack the chamber off re chamber and I will get another 10 years out of it...I might if it ever opens up to MOA lol

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 16 February 2012

1kshooter wrote: ah molly love it or hate it...lol I have shot thousands of mollyed rounds with out a hitch in the long range J bullet game...I had a smith tell me the same thing so I let him bore scope my tac rig and he said well I can see it in there and if you keep using it you will kill your barrel faster then shooting steel bullets! I cuckeled and handed him my log book for that gun and it had over 15 thousand rounds through it and I got it from the police armory..used!! but just for one rang training course about 500 rounds give or take! I still shoot that gun and although it now shoots 1/2"@100 instead of 1/4” it still has a lot of life in it....the tac smith that I chum with checked it over and said that it is not the barrel at all but the chamber that is showing a little erossion and that I should let him wack the chamber off re chamber and I will get another 10 years out of it...I might if it ever opens up to MOA lol

Well you no more about what I spoke then I do !

 

But just the same I'll refrain from shooting that stuff in any of my rifles be it jacketed ones or cast bullet ones . If you never put it there you'll never need to worry about getting it outta there ;)

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 16 February 2012

:coffee   This White Label we speak of is: http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/>http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/

     They have a very good price, and these lubes are great.  You can order hollow sticks of any of them. 

    Glenn and Leah Larsen are good people, too.

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 16 February 2012

hunterspistol wrote: :coffee   This White Label we speak of is: http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/>http://www.lsstuff.com/lube/

     They have a very good price, and these lubes are great.  You can order hollow sticks of any of them. 

    Glenn and Leah Larsen are good people, too.

If I'm not mistaken they sell their lube they claim is good enough for 2500 or 2700 FPS at about half the price retail for what I pay wholesale for Thompson's Blue Angel !

If my memory is correct they get about a $1.50 for a stick of theirs and my dealer cost for the Blue Angel is $3 and some change !

Next time I may just take the plunge and order about 24 sticks from them . Their liquid alox price blows Lee's outta the water as well so to speak !

Attached Files

kidwalli posted this 16 February 2012

The Lyman sizer/ lubricator works quite well. Yes you do need separate dies and punches for every size and style of bullet. I have a perfect old 450 for sale for $100.00 if you are interested. These days I prefer to tumble lube with Lee Liquid Alox and shoot as cast. Way more accurate and a lot less work. Lube needs to be on the outside of the bullet. Lubing the grooves doesn't do much that I can see and if you dig around in the backstop at your range you will find lots of bullets with the lube still in the grooves. As far as sizing goes- don't. Tight shoots way better. Remember this is lead not copper jacket. The barrel sizes the bullet to perfection. Loose bullets cause huge leading and lack of accuracy. If you want to buy this lube/ sizer from me let me know. I see you are over in Angus. I live in London. Come by and have a look if you want.

Attached Files

6pt-sika posted this 16 February 2012

Pigslayer wrote: Always used a 1/4” hex head bolt for all my flat nosed bullets. Just grind the head smooth (get rid of the grade marks). Works just fine.

I made two of those for myself today !

 

I hate to admit it but that idea had never crossed my mind until I read your post !

 

Thanks !

Attached Files

jimkim posted this 16 February 2012

I use one with the grade marks. It works well. At some point I'd like to remove the grade marks and replace them with a “smiley face".

Attached Files

Pigslayer posted this 01 May 2012

6pt-sika wrote: Pigslayer wrote: Always used a 1/4” hex head bolt for all my flat nosed bullets. Just grind the head smooth (get rid of the grade marks). Works just fine.

I made two of those for myself today !

 

I hate to admit it but that idea had never crossed my mind until I read your post !

 

Thanks !

Glad I could help!

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

Attached Files

iloveoon posted this 23 August 2012

Live with the 3Es: Energy,Enthusiasm and Empathy.


http://www.mmolive.com/ http://www.mmohome.com/gold/Maple-Story-US.html

Attached Files

Close