32 spec. yugo mauser lee .323

  • 1.9K Views
  • Last Post 11 October 2010
salvadore posted this 13 August 2010

I was wondering if I can use the lee bullet in both rifles.  Haven't measured bores on either one, but if the .32 spec. is.321, is there any reason a bullet measuring .323 wouldn't work?

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
Badgerloader posted this 13 August 2010

my .32 Win Spcl doesn't mind .323 - in fact, it likes'em

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 13 August 2010

All Yugo mausers I have slugged ran large.

Veral Smith can make custom moulds of the needed .325-.326 diameter. A friend had him cut a .325-225LFN which outshoots any ball ammo out there and shoots well with any reasonable load and is accurate even down to subsonic loads with 7 grains of Bullseye.

Left to right, 8mm round with .325-255LFN, shoots inch at 50 yards with 7 grs. of Bullseye

RCBS heeled bullet for .310 Cadet - shoots better than Nambu bullet, use 5-6 grs. of Bullseye, shoots inch at 50 yards.

RCBS bullet for 8mm Nambu pistol, OK 2 inches at 50 yds, but Cadet bullet is better

8mm round with Cadet bullet seated to depth of at heel.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

raytear posted this 14 August 2010

I can't speak for the .32 Spec. However, my yugo M-1924 likes that Lee bullet when it is sized .325 and backed by about 27 grains of Rx 7. That load shoots as well as any jacketed ammo I have tried in that rifle. (Oddly enough, it especially liked some pulled 8mm FMJ machinegun slugs that weigh about 198 grns. and were propelled by 40-some grains of H4350!) I am planning to take that rifle hunting this fall for Texas white tails with the Lee bullet and a charge of 29 grains of Rx 7.

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 14 August 2010

Speaking of Yugo Mausers - I have one that we slugged and it ran right around .324, if I remember right. It shoots factory loads or jacketed handloads (full power) very well, but I still haven't had much luck with the 170 Lee mold (I'd written before, several months ago, and tried the suggestions to no avail). I've tried Unique, 2400 and Bullseye with varying charges. Still can't seem to keep it on the paper at even 25 yards, which is really weird considering how it shoots jacketed rounds. I'd like to try several different cast bullets but the budget won't allow it. Anyone have any more suggestions?

Attached Files

Brodie posted this 14 August 2010

You might try beageling the Lee mold to make it larger.

B.E.Brickey

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 14 August 2010

OK - thanks. Now...stupid question...what's beageling? Polishing the mold out a bit? Sorry - I'm a band director with one son who's a machinist, but I don't have that gene, I think! How would you do that? By hand, with some kind of paper on a rod, or by mounting a cast bullet on a rod and coating with some kind of compound then turning it inside the mold? Thanks for the help!

Attached Files

vintage sportsman posted this 27 September 2010

Mausermusicman I have a Yugo 48 and am running the Lee 170gr. cast bullets. I use the liquid alox first, then gascheck and size to .323 in a Lee sizer. This removes the Alox from the bands and leaves it in the groove. I am shooting these over 16 gr. of 2400 with CCI Primer and @ 50 yards I can cover 4 rounds with a penny @ 100 yards I measure 1.25. Try slugging the barrel. My Yugo likes these same slugs, 170 gr. w/o the Alox, it just takes a good dry cleaning every 15 rounds or the accuracy drops off. With the Alox I can shoot 50-60 rds., and stay under 2” at 100 yds. all day.

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 28 September 2010

Vintage Sportsman, Thanks for the info. I'd slugged my barrel and it came out right at .324, and I am shooting the Lee 170 as cast, tumble-lubed. They mic at .323, if I read it right (and my son read it, too, but he's a machinist and is used to using micrometers. I'm a band director, so I defer to him!) I'd read from some shooters that as long as velocities were kept reasonable a gas check wasn't necessary, then read from others that I was spitting into the wind, expecting accuracy by omitting the GC (from a GC bullet mold). I bet on the don't-need-a-GC-posts...So, in an effort to save money I had the heel of my molds machined out to groove diameter, making in essence a flat-based bullet. I've shot that bullet over 2400, Unique and Red Dot with little accuracy...minute-of-bucket, to be sure. I guess I could get the Lee sizing die (I have an OLD Lyman 450 that doesn't work, and can't afford to replace it) and could try sizing it to .323, which it pretty much is, and re-lube it. (I guess it would round out the bullet and make it uniform). This rifle is a shooter with mil-surp/current factory loads/my full-bore JSP loads, but won't put 2 plinker-velocity cast bullets next to each other no matter what I do. Any other ideas? Also - are you using the stock rear sight? Do you have to raise it, and if so, how much?

I've reloaded since the mid-'70s and simply refuse to believe that I can't get this rifle to group at least a little bit with my bullets; I've never had this problem before. Thanks for the info and advice. 

Attached Files

vintage sportsman posted this 28 September 2010

Tomorrow I am trying non-GC rounds for the first time over 13 gr. of red-dot. I am stymied at the “Minute -of-bucket” accuracy you are experiencing. You may have an enlarged throat on your Yugo. A simple ream job can fix that. Also, check your OAL of round. My yugo likes a longer round than most. I loaded a couple duds long and ran them in slowly using the bolt as a seater against the bore. I then checked the length and backed it off a couple thousandths to 2.88 for my Yugo.

The other thing is the Gas checks. I run my bullets through the sizing die, then attach the gas checks and size again.

 - seems to work, hope this helps, I will try and post some pics of tomorrows results.:cba:

Attached Files

DAMRON G posted this 29 September 2010

vintage sportsman wrote: Tomorrow I am trying non-GC rounds for the first time over 13 gr. of red-dot. results.:cba: i think 13 or Red Dot is a bit too hot for good PB accuracy in the 8mm.I am curious how it will work out though.

I never go about 8g of the fast pistol stuff with plan base in 8mm or other Military cases like the 30-06,303BR etc.

this is 5.5 BE (1250fps) and the 310 Cadet bullet at 100 and is abut 3” It is a turk Model 38 with irons and the best it ever shot(by far) for 10.

George

Attached Files

303PV posted this 29 September 2010

You could try Lee C329-205-1R , which is meant for the 8x56R Austrian (Hungarian). I use them for 8x50R (Lebel)

 

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 29 September 2010

What is the OAL of your rounds? I seat mine to the forward crimp groove. I've tried seating them out a bit; will re-try it. Let me know how yours shoots minus the gas checks. Thanks!

Attached Files

galenaholic posted this 09 October 2010

MauserMusicMan said, “Thanks for the info. I'd slugged my barrel and it came out right at .324, and I am shooting the Lee 170 as cast, tumble-lubed. They mic at .323,"

I'm surpised no one noticed this. Your bullet is .001” smaller than groove diameter and frankly, I'm surprise severe leading isn't a problem. :shock: Your bullet should measure at least .325” and preferably .326” IMHO.

Someone suggested “Beagleing” the mold and that might turn the trick although I find Lee molds a bit more difficult to do this. Beagleing is using aluminum tape strategically placed on the inside of the mold so as to cast a slightly fatter bullet. Sometimes it turns the trick and sometimes it does not. Cost of the tape is negligible and it won't hurt to try.

Paul B.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 09 October 2010

I loaded up some jacketed ammo to try in my M48. From a bench I could keep them in about 6” at 100 yds. The problem is the trigger is very heavy, almost need two fingers to pull it. When I get that fixed I'll try the Lee bullet.

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 09 October 2010

Paul - OK - beageling - pardon the stupid question, but if you make the mold thinner by putting tape in it, wouldn't that make the bullet skinnier, since the mold has been made a bit thinner? I guess I don't get it. I'd think you'd have to ream the mold a few thousandths at the grooves to cast a slightly fatter bullet.

I did get it to shoot to point of aim, finally, at 25 yds - haven't tried it further out yet. I dropped the 2400 back from 16 to 13 gr. and seated the bullet out to an overall length of about 2.906. Would be interesting to pursue the aluminum tape thing, if I knew what I was doing. Maybe you can make it clear. Thanks!

Attached Files

Brodie posted this 09 October 2010

MauserMusicMan;  You don't put the tape inside the bullet cavity.  You put the tape on three sides of the cavity on the block faces, keeping them a little apart and thus making the bullet a little fatter, and a little out of round.  As long as that is ballanced and the size in large enough it dosn't seem to matter sometimes.  Sometimes it just dosn't work, and you have to enlarge the mould cavity, or you could try paperpatching the bullet as is and sizing to the required size.  For a more complete explanation of paper patching, look at the Cast Boolits Site.  There are a number of people over there that do a lot more of it than those of us here.

Good Luck.

B.E.Brickey

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 11 October 2010

OK - got it. Sorry about the ignorance but I've never had to alter molds. So - it doesn't push the molds far enough apart that it creates a “fin” on the bullet sides? I may have to try it. Thanks!

Attached Files

galenaholic posted this 11 October 2010

It can create a fin but usually does not. Any irregularity in the bullets is easly cleaned up in the sizing die. I have several molds that are “Beagled” and they work quite well.

Go here for an article on the process.

http://www.castpics.net/index.htm>http://www.castpics.net/index.htm

Lots of good stuff here.

Paul B.

Attached Files

MauserMusicMan posted this 11 October 2010

I'll have to try it. I read the article, now I get it. I'll get some aluminum tape soon - thanks!

Attached Files

Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close