heat control on lube seizer

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  • Last Post 13 February 2011
canuck4570 posted this 14 September 2009

I install a stove rheostat on my lyman hot plate that is under my RCBS lube seizer and it work wonder no more pulling and plugging the electric cord canuck....

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OleGrunt posted this 14 September 2009

Great idea. Please let me know the brand name or model number of the rheostat and where you purchased it.

Thanks

olegrunt

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canuck4570 posted this 14 September 2009

I took the rheostat at a local electrical appliance store its a rheostat from a kitchen stove the one that control the eating element you just connect the wire at the correct place and put every thing in a electrical box the one use in house for plug and switches I putted this box under my reloading bench and the wires run to my warming plate.... after a while you get to know exactly where to set the rheostat for the lube used....

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mtgrs737 posted this 15 September 2009

I made a heat control from a hardware store light dimmer switch that works just fine for my Lyman lube heater. All you need is a two place electtrical box so that you can mount the dimmer on one side and a standard duplex outlet on the other and a length of electrical cord with a plug and you are in business. You can do it for under $10 if you shop for componets well. I could email you a picture of it if you would like. PM me with your email adress.

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gary0529 posted this 16 September 2009

I have a similar fix to 737- was at the Home Depot and saw a 110v. light dimmer for 6 bucks and change. All you do is plug in the dimmer to an outlet and then plug in the heater to the plug on the dimmer unit----Voila! Easy to control the temp. What I do is leave it full open for the first 20 minutes or so, depending on ambient temp in my barn and then use the slider switch to back off the current flowing to the plate and I can keep it warm but not hot. Hey, for less than 7 dollars and all I do is plug it in this is a great fix.

Gary

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Dale53 posted this 16 September 2009

I had a Dremel tool speed control (just a rheostat in a nice box) that I use with my Lyman heater on my Star, RCBS, AND Lyman lube/sizers.

If I didn't have the Dremel tool speed control I would simply do what the others did and build one with a light dimmer switch. The heater is a low wattage unit that will NOT overwhelm the dimmer.

Incidentally, I was having to wait about thirty minutes before the low wattage Lyman unit heated up my lube/sizer enough to run well. I discovered that if I apply a heat gun for TWO minutes to the base of the sizer, that it will heat the sizer enough to run well for the rest of the session with just the Lyman heater. This little trick has made things a lot more enjoyable:thumbsup:.

Dale53

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mcskipper posted this 23 July 2010

I put a dimmer and duplex receptacle in a 4X4 box. A cord with a plug out the side. Wired it up. I plugged a 7 1/2 watt night light in one plug the heater in the other. Now i have a visual as to the power setting and if I turned it off when I'm done.

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OleGrunt posted this 23 July 2010

Thanks for the tip. I've purchased and used the dimmer switch solution with great results.Regards Carl Fisher LtCol USMC (ret)

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Bongo Boy posted this 13 February 2011

I think I already posted this setup here somewhere but it was so long ago I have no idea where. Anyway, this is a Ranco brand electronic controller, wall mounted, with power going in one side, and the Lyman heater wired into the other.

The entire sizer is basically encased now in a big block of spray foam (the foam insulation you get in the aerosol cans at Lowes, Home Depot etc).

The cool thing about the controller is that you can set it to whatever temperature you want, and you can choose the bandwidth of the control band--that is, you can choose a larger or smaller temperature swing before the controller turns on/off. I have mine set to 1F, and with all the insulation this seems to work well--not a lot of cycling on and off.

I think I got the controller off eBay and it was about $60 or so. With the garage at 25-35F quite a bit of the time lately, the sizer will still run at my setting of 125F with no problems. Takes a 1/2 hour or more to get there, but with the insulation, it stays there. Before the insulation, no go.

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CB posted this 13 February 2011

Very Nice! I like the insulation idea, never thought of doing it that way. I had thought of using pipe insulation and wrapping it, dont remember why I never did it.. Must be getting old.

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Bongo Boy posted this 13 February 2011

Part of the challenge is to insulate, but keep the front of the lube chamber clear--since there's no room there to clear the linkage, etc. I built a simple box around everything out of thin plastic sheet, then foam-filled inside the box. When all was set up, I then removed the plastic sheet pieces.

The first test was actually with a hand towel. It was the only way I could keep the setup warm last winter, and really the only way the lubri-sizer would ever come up to temperature. With the block of foam, life is good. The Lyman heaters are only 45W I think--just not enough when the workshop is freezing or below.

I'll post a photo if I remember--it's ugly as hell, but my loading area won't ever make into any magazine articles anyway!

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