I've been collecting parts to build a 44-40 single shot bolt gun. I have a new Mod 70 action that was for a WSM. I got a 1-20 tw blank from Preferred barrels. My reamer came today. I think I messed up. The reamer print says 44-40 Win- Cylinder, I thought it was for a rifle. It was on sale and not returnable. The throat has an angle of 3*43' and starts at .4436 and goes to .414 in .2278 inches. I was considering ordering an Accurate mold # 43-280H and or 310AG. I have the H&G 503. I was hoping to play with the heavier bullets. I haven't slugged the barrel but I think they said it was a .422/.429 dimensions. I was considering getting the molds cut .432. I really don't like the throat dia on this reamer leaving the base so much unsupported. Should I forget using reamer? I was thinking maybe they could regrind the throat dia and angle?? With the cost of gunsmithing and barrels the reamer is a small part of the build. What do you think? Thanks
44-40 Bolt Gun
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- Last Post 26 December 2021
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I found Mr. Austins excellent site, Chasing the 44-40 and spent a couple hours reading. My reamer print agrees with the SAAMI drawing he has except my drawing is missing one dimension at the throat. As best as I could measuring with verniers, the reamer throat closely matches SAAMI where the dimension is missing on my drawing. I have no idea where the .414 dimension came from.
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Sounds like an interesting project. You should consider s Fouling Shot article (with pictures!) once you have it done!
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If your cylinder reamer has a rotating pilot, then it is worth having it reground to produce a rifle chamber.
But if it has a solid pilot I would not bother, because unless the pilot is a perfect fit in the bore you can't cut a concentric chamber.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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Thanks for all your help Ed. The 2 bullets are on order from Accurate. Just got off the phone with Manson and a new reamer is on order with your suggestions. I'm putting a marked up drawing in the mail to Manson to make sure we're talking apples to apples. I guess for now I'll have to wait. The plus side , it'll be a little warmer to go shoot this thing when it's finished.
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you are going to like that Manson reamer ... i think they are the best choice right now.
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if the budget allows i use the roller piloted reamers and fitted buttons.
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to get the most out of the solid guide reamers here is what i do.>> ( with tapered cases ) ...
in the 4 jaw, i sweep the THROAT area to zero. if a long rifle cartridge takes a long needle indicator or drill clearance for the indicator body. i don't believe the Gritters rods etc. are as good as sweeping the throat itself. because only the throat matters. if any error, your chamber will be less than1 thou oversize at the base ... better there than up front.
then i drill out as much of the barrel case area as safe, just to reduce chips.
then i BORE within 0.010 or so of the finished diameter at the same TAPER as the reamer/case . this gives you a tapered guide for the body of the reamer ... since your finished reamer solid guide can't be sure to guide the reamer body ... usually. boring makes the taper concentric with the throat. a good start.
use a floating reamer holder to allow the reamer to follow the taper easily. if you don't have a fancy one, you can just push the reamer with a flat hard slick pusher ... such as a stock stop in the tail stock.
shut off phone, lock the doors and take your time. don't chip-fill the reamer flutes over half full and clean everything between every cut. pray on the last fine cut or two.
once i tried the above about 20 years ago, i also use this even with roller piloted reamers. saves buying rougher reamers.
of course the pucker time is when you chamber a lead slug in your finished job and see if the rifling is even. so far so good, even with " e-bay " deer rifle reamers.
let us know how your project turns out.
ken
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Ken I don't do the chambering, I have a buddy who chambers all my guns. He chambers thru the head stock. He also bores the chamber before running the reamer in like you describe. I believe that's the most accurate method. I did take Jerry Harts NRA class on chambering , in 76 I think, but just never follow thru getting a lathe. I did order the removal pilot reamer.
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I am excited to see the results and follow through the build project! Keep us posted.
44-40 Website - https://sites.google.com/view/44winchester/chasing-the-44-40
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Mr. Austin, I will but the reamer is 10 to12 weeks out . I'd like to thank you for such a great article. I have about 5 hrs in reading and rereading it now. I'm sorry to admit but I bounced over it when I first looked at it. It truly was a labor of love writing it. and getting key people together. Thanks.. Did you say you're doing the 38-40?? LOL
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Thanks Ray,
No, I don't have a 38-40. My grandad had one but it went to my uncle and his family
44-40 Website - https://sites.google.com/view/44winchester/chasing-the-44-40
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