Gunstock sealer

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  • Last Post 06 February 2011
CB posted this 09 March 2009

I am inletting a stock for the first time in over forty years.  What is the best varnish/sealer now on the market for the first coat that will penetrate the wood?  The wood is pretty but not too hard and I think it would benefit from a little hardening before I checker it.  I used to use a thinned polyurethane but don't even remember what brand.  I'm sure there is something better now.

I would appreciate any advice.

John

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RicinYakima posted this 09 March 2009

Consider Dalys Seafin Ship n Shore sealer. This has been used for years by many, after staining, to seal the wood. It also hardens about 15-25% according to their website. HTH, Ric

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canalupo posted this 30 March 2009

I use tung oil on my woodworking projects, mostly cherry and maple. I don't know the trade name but “crazy glue” ( crylomate or something similar) works to harden and seal but you wont be able to stain it after using. I try to match colors with carbon soot to make new wood look older before I seal.

Bob D

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R. Dupraz posted this 30 March 2009

Iv'e never used a sealer as such and think that they are overrated. All I have ever done is to use the finish itself as a sealer, by just cutting it 50/50 with a good grade of the appropriate thinner and letting the wood soak up as much as it can before applying the final finish. Makes the process simpler and there is never a compatibility issue.

Mostly use True Oil, a good marine spar varnish or sometimes tung  oil.

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cityboy posted this 30 March 2009

I use the sealer made by Birchwood Casey; have no idea how it compares with others.

Jim

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Brodie posted this 30 March 2009

When I was doing a lot of woodworking I used shellack dilluted about one to ten or twelve with alcohol.  You can stailn, paint, finish however you want over it (once it is dry) and it dries almost instantly.  

I used to apply it to the four edges of doors after I finished hanging them to prevent their swelling or shrinking in changing humidity.

B.E.Brickey

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robertwilliam posted this 06 September 2009

I seal the wood with older, thickened tung oil. After that is dry and I have saned off all the excess I then use thinner tung oil in very light coats to finish the wood.

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Nrut posted this 06 September 2009

I use a 2 part epoxy thinned with acetone applied by hand using rubber gloves on a warmed stocked smoothing the best I can...Sand then re-apply until you get complete coverage and a even smooth finish...Final finish is with Tru-oil... This gives you a strong waterproof sealed stock.. If you live in the States, West Systems works ...I use Cold Cure up here in Canada... This techniquie came from a article in “Rifle Mag.” called THE ARMORED STOCK  that I read a number of years ago...

IIRC it said this finish took checking very well...I don't checker myself ....(yet):)

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JetMech posted this 07 September 2009

I recently tried Tom's 1/3 mix and it gives a great finish, but I wondering (now) about  stripping an older Marlin stock I'd like to try my hand at checkering. So you want something alittle harder when checkering to keep the wood from chipping?

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Vassal posted this 07 September 2009

pics pics pics!!!

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WRDSMTH posted this 03 February 2010

I routinely use Permalyn sealer by Laurel Mountain and have been very satisfied with it...it really penetrates the wood well. It is available from Brownell's, Midway, etc.

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valk posted this 05 February 2011

I've been using Birchwood Casey Tru-oil for sealing and finishing for around 30 years. I prefer the spray finish but have used the hand-rub type with good results too. I generally spray liberally for the first few coats and then hand rub it into the areas that soak it up first from the areas that don't soak it up so fast. Then lightly sand between coats until it stops soaking in and starts to build up on the outside of the wood. Then I will wet sand using tru-oil as the wet part to completely fill the grain.

Then for the final coats I will wet sand with water and fine paper between coats. I've got a couple of stocks I finished around 30 years ago using this method and they still look good. Another advantage to tru-oil is that if you scratch the gun you can easily touch it up with more tru-oil.  The same can't be said for a finish which may not be around in 10 years.

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canalupo posted this 06 February 2011

To dollar Bill's question as to hardening stock.... Walnut or most tight grained wood will take checkering well. Older stocks were some times made of birch and do not take checkering well. Check the wood for grain .. you may be surprised to find it is not walnut but a cheaper grade of wood. If you use checkering tools with a wide (coarse) number of lines per inch. 8 to 12 per inch  most off woods will take the checker.

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