358311 bullet in 9mm

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  • Last Post 18 March 2018
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GBertolet posted this 16 March 2018

I just started using a 1911 for action shooting sports. I have two 4 cavity molds for the 358311 already, and like the heavy bullets that I can make power factor with ridiculously light recoil. The bullets feed real well, and weigh out at 162.5 gr.. Lyman even had 9mm loading data for this bullet in one of their older manuals. Not all that detailed though. Seating the bullets to the depth that fits the magazine, I am right at the crimp groove, but the bullet base intrudes maybe, .060 into the case internal taper, and I get a bulge there, plus examining pulled bullets, I see a taper swaged on the bullet base. Most of the rounds chamber OK, but occasionally I get one that doesn't. The 147 gr bullets have a workaround for this issue, by beveling the bullet base.

Has anyone ever tried using a case neck reamer in the 9mm case, to clean out a little metal, for clearance in the cases for that last .060 or so. I see Forster and RCBS make reamers, but I don't know what their finished diameter will be. I could ream sized or unsized.

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RicinYakima posted this 16 March 2018

While I have not done this with the 9MM, I did do it for the .44 Russian before Cowboy Action Shooting and we made brass from .44 Mag. While it works, you have to be careful that you are not cutting into the unsupported part of the case that overlaps the feed ramp of the 1911 barrel. And look for a brand of brass that has thinner side walls. Hth, Ric

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R. Dupraz posted this 16 March 2018

 

"you have to be careful that you are not cutting into the unsupported part of the case that overlaps the feed ramp of the 1911 barrel."

What Rick said !

 

R.

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45 2.1 posted this 16 March 2018

Lyman had that data in the 44th & 45th editions of their manuals. I tried it in the late 70's myself with no problems. An easier solution is to find less heavily made brass you don't have to alter.... there are many many variations in 9mm brass. It shouldn't be hard to find one that works right.

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GBertolet posted this 16 March 2018

Thanks for the advise. I did try reaming out a few cases using a letter S drill bit (.358). It did the trick. I did have to go a little deeper than I first thought, to get rid of the bulge. It leaves a nice shoulder for a bullet stop. I tried the few I loaded, and they shot ok. I certainly understand the concern of getting too close to the unsupported part of the chamber. Although I feel I would be alright in doing this, as the shoulder is not quite at this point, and my loads are extremely light (2.9-3.0 gr Bullseye). The matches I shoot at are considered lost brass matches, as the different stages are fired on gravel and grass. This means the local brass scroungers clean up the ranges afterwards, and some of these cases will be salvaged, and possibly reloaded with high pressure loads. Out of concern for these folks, I will refrain from doing this.

I use mostly range brass, so sorting brass by wall thickness is not practical for any volume reloading.

I did have a member PM me suggesting, I consider trying a .348 Win bullet sizer die, adjusting it to just bump the bases back a little to get the bevel base, which is a different solution to this problem. I will investigate this also.

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358156hp posted this 18 March 2018


How did the loaded cartridges feed & chamber when you loaded them long enough to stay out of the case taper? You may also be able to bump a small flat on the nose of the bullet with a flat punch in your sizer to shorten the bullet nose slightly.

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GBertolet posted this 18 March 2018

I had been working with Duane through PM's, and we came up with this solution. With the bullet inverted in the Lyman sizer with .356 die, having a little bit of the base exposed, a #460 top punch was pressed down on the bullet base. This beveled the base significantly, and as a bonus flattened the bullet nose about .025. I can now seat the bullet shallower also. Looks like problem solved. Thank you everyone.

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