.30 Caliber Gas Checks

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Bud Hyett posted this 13 August 2019

Has anyone done a live-fire comparison between Hornady and Gator checks? 

If so, what were the results? 

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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res45 posted this 13 August 2019

I've used lots of the Hornady checks from many years before switching to the Gator checks mainly due to cost. I honestly can't tell any difference between the two.

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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MarkinEllensburg posted this 13 August 2019

I'm looking at Sage's Outdoors currently. Their prices seem much more reasonable. So to add on to Bud's question has anyone done a side by side comparison of these to Hornady?

I'm buying gaschecks for three shooters in my family that shoot .30 caliber. Checks are getting much to expensive.

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Coydog posted this 13 August 2019

I had used Lyman press on then Hornady seen a differences on the 2 and then I went to Gators then I seen they work the same as Hornady . they both clip on . And Gators are less for cost. 

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R. Dupraz posted this 13 August 2019

I started with Hornady GC's but switched to Gator check's several years ago, also because of the cost. And the only difference that I have found is that the Gators are noticeably harder. The last copper GC's came from Sages which from what I understand are actually Gators anyway. 

Five years ago or so, I ordered direct from Gator. At that time, no postage on 5000 or more. At one time the military crew around here put an order together for 50,000 Gators direct to take advantage of that.

 

R

 

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Rich/WIS posted this 13 August 2019

Started with Lyman, then went Hornady, and now use Gators from Sage.  If there was a difference between Hornady and Sage I never saw it, but will caveat that with neither I nor my rifles are good enough to tell if there was a difference in accuracy. Do know that my rifles did NOT like AL gas checks, used to find them on the ground in front of the firing line.

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Bud Hyett posted this 13 August 2019

Aluminum in pure metal has an irregular crystalline structure. This leads to edges with sharp points that erode any metal that it contacts. Aluminum oxide is used in sanding belts to take advantage of the charismatic. 

This anomaly is why I will never shoot anything aluminum in my barrels. Winchester Silvertip Hollowpoint ammunition uses aluminum that does not touch the bore and that is as far as I will go.

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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John Alexander posted this 13 August 2019

As noted by R above Gators are harder.  The extra force to size caused the noses on some soft bore riding bullets to upset to a larger random diameter - not good.  Switched to Hornady to cure problem.  Less likely with hard alloy bullets but something to watch for. 

Another thing that could possibly be a problem is because they are harder they will spring back more after sizing in place and could be more likely to come off. I have not noticed that problem but.

I have several thousand Gators so am looking for the best way to anneal.

John

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R. Dupraz posted this 13 August 2019

I have had and still have the same concerns that John has not so much with nose expansion when sizing but more so with spring back of those hard Gators. Don't know for sure but wonder about the possibility of some occasionally coming  off and creating those wild unexplained flyers.. Especially at 200. 

Some of the crew around here anneal those CK's. But my one and only attempt at this witchcraft was not a success by any stretch so just abandoned the idea and shoot them as is.

After all, no possible way that it  could be the shooter's fault ! 

 

R. 

 

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John Alexander posted this 13 August 2019

As long as a shooter isn't getting much nose expansion from upset OK.  But last week it sneaked up on me and one of the noses was big enough to prevent chambering which ended the shooting session. I have not been able to find an expanded nose since I switched back to Hornadys. The resistance of the handle of the press used for lubing is quite noticeable.

You are right about fliers never being the shooters fault.

John

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res45 posted this 14 August 2019

The good thing about Sage is you don't have to buy a thousand gas checks if you just want to try something out.  You can buy as little as 250 checks at a time if you like or buy a variety to test out.

'Artisan' in Lead, Brass & Powder.

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shastaboat posted this 21 August 2019

Actually they will send you sample to try for free.  The only ones I've had problems with are 8mm.

 

Because I said so!

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Dean D. posted this 2 weeks ago

I know this thread is over a year old but I thought I'd comment anyway as I haven't seen anyone mention using a Lee push through sizer to seat the Gator GC's.  I think that solves the problem of upsetting softer alloy bullets. 

I've been using Gator checks successfully for many years now and haven't noticed any problems with them other than the hardness.  I'll admit I have not done any critical side by side testing i.e. Hornady vs Gator though.  YMMV

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Bud Hyett posted this 2 weeks ago

Since the initial question, I've changed my process to hopefully eliminate a few more flyers. I've used both and cannot see any difference in scores, but this needs serious work on targets with data analysis. This also addresses the harder Gator check as this is now a two-step process. I'm using the NOE push through die that is similar to the Lee.

The process is: 

  • Begin seating in the SAECO lubri-sizer using a .312 die and the SAECO gascheck seater.
  • Inspect for correct and full seating
  • Finish seating in the NOE push through die; .311 for Springfields and .310 for production rifles.

Once we can again shoot at the range, I'll report on the results. 

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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OU812 posted this 2 weeks ago

The 22 caliber Sage checks are harder or thicker than the Hornady. Also not as flat (concave) at base.

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Tom Acheson posted this 2 weeks ago

Annealing gas checks? Has anyone tried putting them in a lead pot and covering them with sand. After an hour turn off the pot, let everything cool down. Empty the pot across a section of screen material with openings large enough to let sand through but retain the checks. Put the checks in a bowl like container and shake them to separate any remaining sand.

Tom

 

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Pepe Ray posted this 2 weeks ago

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this OLD method for annealing gas checks.  Go to your nearest plumbing supply house.  Purchase two(2) Black iron (wrought iron) threaded caps, 2" dia. and one 2" nipple, close or up 3" long,depending on the volume of G.C. to be annealed. Install one cap snuggly on the nipple, pour your G.C's into the nipple and secure the nipple with the remaining cap. Hand tight is enough. Then toss it into your wood stove. A nice bed of coals should git the job done in jig time.

No sand, no mess, I guess if you have nothing but gas or electric, heat you'll have to figure out your routine

Original author unknown.

Pepe Ray.

Only in His name.

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Tom Acheson posted this 2 weeks ago

I suppose if you don’t have a wood stove, maybe a charcoal grill would work?

Tom

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