Mold for making solid stick lube

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CB posted this 01 January 2008

What does it take to make a mold for making solid stick lube? Can I make these from PVC or black iron?

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Thanks,

 

Jerry

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CB posted this 01 January 2008

Jerry You can use either.. I have some in PVC and some made from Aluminum tubing..

The only factor to consider is the heat when initially poured. I have had some PVC tube warp from the heat. My lube is at around 450 degrees F when I pure it into the moulds.

To make lube stick moulds you will need: A section of 2x4 (length varies with how many moulds you are going to make)

PVC tube caps (the number varies with how many moulds you are going to make)

Lengths of 1” PVC tubing (cut to how long you want your lube sticks to be)

Take the tube caps (try to get the flat ones, they are easier to use) Find something close to the center and drill a 3/16 hole through the caps.

Lay the caps out on the wide portion of the 2x4 (this will tell you how long to cut the 2x4) with enough spacing that you can wrap you handle around each tube.

Using a #6 drywall screw, screw the tube cap onto the 2x4.

Cut you 1” PVC tubing into the lengths you want.

and viola! Lube stick moulds.

If you want to have a hole in the center, take and drill a 3/8 hole in the center of the cap, and 2 3/16 holes to either side and then mount to the 2x4. After you have the cap mounted, continue drilling the 3/8 hole part way through the 2x4. This will help center the 3/8 dowel used to make the center hole. I use a 3/8 aluminum rod because the lube sticks to the wood like glue.

A couple of tips... Get a portion of 1” dowel rod to add in pushing the lube out of the tube once it sets up. Also you if you are making sticks with holes in the center, take and cut some 1/2” sections of the 1” dowel, drill a 3/8 hole in the center and place in the bottom of the mould and insert the 3/8 dowel.. Makes it easier to push those out of the mould without collapsing the hole in the stick of lube.

One final word of advice.. You will need to coat the inside surface with something to act as a release agent. Some use Murphy's oil soap, some use hairspray, some like me use commercial candle mould release and some use 3% food grade silicone spray.

There will be some shrinkage and the top end of the mould will have some air bubbles and vacancies. This is normal.

Try to pour the molten lube at a temperature just high enough to make it pourable.

I will try to get out into the shop tomorrow and get you some pics of my setup.

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CB posted this 01 January 2008

Jeff,

Thanks and pictures would be great!

Jerry

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CB posted this 02 January 2008

This is the first one I made, a bit crude, but it works. Contrary to what I told you to do, I bored holes in the 2x4. Not a bad idea till I found I had to turn down the PVC tubes because they just don't make spade bits the right size.

Below are the 1” PVC tubes, the Bored 2x4 and the little dowel pieces I place in the bottom of the tubes before pouring.

usrimages/stickmould.jpg

Here is the picture with the tubes inserted in the holes

usrimages/stickmould4.jpg

Note the holes in the small aluminum spacers, this is for when you want to make lube sticks that have the hole in the center. I use a 3/8 aluminum rod for this, one end is drilled and tapped 1/4-20 so you can use the little jig I made to pull the rod from the center.

usrimages/stickmould3.jpg

usrimages/stickmould2.jpg

usrimages/stickmouldrod.jpg

And here is the jig to remove the center rod from the tube once it is cast with lube. You have to do this before you remove the lube stick from the PVC tube.

usr/images/rodremover1.jpgusrimages/rodremover1.jpg

usrimages/rodremover2.jpg

I also have a jig made to press the lube stick out of the mould.

usrimages/stickpress.jpg

usrimages/stickpress2.jpg

usrimages/stickpress3.jpg

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CB posted this 02 January 2008

Thanks, pictures help a lot.

Jerry

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gussy posted this 03 January 2008

There is a large mould set up shown on the www.castingstuff.com web site. Go down the opening page to the “Lead Smelter and Lube Making” page. Several good photos and directions.

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CB posted this 03 January 2008

I would be interested in knowing what he use for a release agent to get the lube out of the tubes!

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gussy posted this 04 January 2008

Jeff Bowles wrote: I would be interested in knowing what he use for a release agent to get the lube out of the tubes!

Nothing.  :coffee

I only make BPCR lube.  It slides right out.  I remove it as soon as it is hard enough to come out in one piece and not bend or break.  It pushes out easily with just the red stick shown.

Gus

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CB posted this 04 January 2008

I have had issues getting my lube out of the tubes at times. Of course it is much different than BPCR lube. So you are able to pull the dowel rods right out of the lube huh?? Man I tryed that and really had a bad time. That is why I went to using the aluminum rods drilled and taped on one end so I can pull the rods out. I tried all sorts of stuff for the center rod. They do come apart easier in the winter than in the summer. The lube shrinks at a faster rate when it cools quickly.

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gussy posted this 04 January 2008

I noticed all the “extra equipment” and was thinking you were going to a lot of trouble to get yours out. Mine slides right out. Hardly any effort at all. Center dowels also.

You might try a quick dip in boiling water prior to pushing them out. Pam spray the tubes??

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gussy posted this 04 January 2008

A second thought, split the tubes on one side with a hacksaw and put hose clamps on them. Remove the clamp and the lube should be loose and just slide out.

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CB posted this 04 January 2008

Hummm.. That is a thought, splitting the tubes on one side.. The center rods arent too bad to get out with the jig, just a bit time consuming. I have tried pam, murphy's oil soap, 3% food grade silicone, hair spray, commercial candle mould release, car wax and a host of others. In order to get the lube I make to blend, it has to be pretty darn hot and has a remelt temp of at least 160 degrees f. Part of the reason I still make it in small batches, 8 sticks a batch. It is firm lube, but liquefies under pressure, enough to run through a Lyman 450 with out heating.

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CB posted this 04 January 2008

Jeff,

How tall are your mold tubes?

Jerry

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

Jeff,

Splitting the tubing is no big deal, I would use a wafer thin blade to slice the tubing. If I was to not split the tubing, I would either copy your ram type extractor or build a hydraulic one. I have a machine shop as a part of my regular work, so many things are possible.

Jerry

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

Jerry You area lucky devil to have a machine shop at your disposal! I made my tubes 6” long. 1/2” for the aluminum spacer at the bottom and an extra 1 1/2” allowance at the top for the shrinkage of the lube, 4” for the actual stick of lube. After I remove the center rod and the lube from the mould, I trim the lybe to 4", save the tops and chuck them back into the pot for the next batch. I havent used the press to remove the lube from the tube recently, with the colder weather the lube has been coming out easier. Of course I have stopped using the plastic tube and am now using anodized aluminum tubes and a push stick. If the lube sticks I just put a bit of heat via a heat gun to the tubes and that seems to work okay.

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

Jeff,

Where do you get the anodized aluminum tubing?

Thanks,

Jerry

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

Jeff,

This what I do: http://anvilsandinkstudios.com/

and here is where my shop stuff is: http://anvilsandinkstudios.com/studiopage1.html

Jerry

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

I have been getting that anodized tubing from a great little hardware shop near me, I think it is about 12.00 for a 8ft. piece.

Then I just cut it up into 6” pieces on the band saw. You end up with one tube that will be a bit short due to the kerf width of the saw blade. Just chamfer the ends inside and out and there you have it.

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

That is a nice shop Jerry! You do some very nice work. If I get down to your neck of the woods I will have to plan time to stop by and visit!

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

Jeff,

Thanks, any time your in my area just stop on in.

Back to the lube molds, I was thinking of 1” galvanized conduit for the tubes. 10' is about $27.00

Any thoughts on this?

Jerry

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CB posted this 05 January 2008

Jeff,

Do you have the brand name of the aluminum tubing, or the name of the hardware store?

Thanks,

Jerry

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