Mold for making solid stick lube

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  • Last Post 28 December 2014
CB posted this 01 January 2008

What does it take to make a mold for making solid stick lube? Can I make these from PVC or black iron?

;}

Thanks,

 

Jerry

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gunarea posted this 28 December 2014

lube mould, my version

Hey Folks The method I use is a copy of what my mentor, Mr. George Forest, came up with some eighty years ago. Modern products have been employed to replace some of the parts, but the idea is identical. Mr. Forest made his tube moulds from steel pipe and originaly the stem void was done with arrow shafts, later he got steel rods. As a teenager I was tasked with stripping moulds and cleanup. After years of apprenticeship, everything except “brewing” fell into my skill repatriore. A batch of “Best Lube” generally produced around 160 sticks of the hollow core type. Making the solid sticks was even simpler but yeilded fewer sticks of course. This stickie is about lube forms, so I won't stray except to note “Best Lube” does not need lubricant on anything to release cleanly from any of the mould parts. My particular mould system is much smaller than that of Mr. Forest since I do not produce commercialy. You can easily modify this method to suit your needs. The two men in the pictures are students making lube using my mould system. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108953&d=1403867772>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108958&d=1403871048>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108957&d=1403870105>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108957&d=1403870105&thumb=1 A hole saw will cut a groove to accept the pipe form and give a positively centered pilot hole for stick. Depth of cut is not critical but should be 3/8” to 1/2". 1” PVC pipe cut to lenght must have a bevel ground on one end to fit snugly into the hole saw groove. For a 3/8” dowel, drill a 5/16” hole through the hole saw pilot hole. A pencil sharpener will quickly taper one end of the dowel to fit snugly into the center hole. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108954&d=1403868192>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108954&d=1403614417&thumb=1 This batching/mould system has been used many times so I am quite sure of the validity of the information I am passing to you. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108956&d=1403869388>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108956&d=1403869388&thumb=1 Stripping of the forms is also very simple. After pouring all warm lube into moulds, allow ample time for cooling.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108959&d=1403871677>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108959&d=1403871677&thumb=1 Gang moulds take longer for interior moulds to cool properly. A simple push stick and a little practice makes stripping quick and easy. Technique tip; holding the PVC form, put two fingers on the top with the dowel between them. First part of the push will free up the dowel. Then grip the PVC form fully and push the stick out.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108955&d=1403868675>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108955&d=1403694907&thumb=1 Here is my neanderthal rendering of a push out. The PVC Tee became needed as my arthritis progresses. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108789&d=1403695356>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108789&d=1403616255&thumb=1 This is my offering to those who would appreciate it. I don't say it is THE way to do it, only that it is A way to do it. Couple tips of mine is wrap sticks in aluminum foil, get someone else to do it and never offer to sell it. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108790&d=1403697083>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=108790&d=1403617107&thumb=1 My hope is this information will help someone. Roy

Shoot often, Shoot well

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CB posted this 09 November 2009

Good, now make us proud and create your own lube.

Jerry

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burnout777 posted this 09 November 2009

I've got many good ideas from Jerry and the others :lovecast:

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CB posted this 09 November 2009

That mold looks familiar. ;}

 

Jerry

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leo 367 posted this 09 November 2009

I pour the hot lube into the lyman 450 Leo367

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burnout777 posted this 01 November 2009

I also made a lube mold bracket.  I used 1'' x 4'' galvenized steel pipe and I used the caps to prevet the leakage problem I had too.  I put the molds in the freezer when they can be moved to speed things up a bit.  I make a hard lube.  As far as the relase agent ... I found that using a heat gun for 10 - 15 seconds wile holding the molds with a channel lock loosens up the lube to be pushed out easily with a wooden dowel.

 

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Recluse posted this 08 June 2009

Jeff Bowles wrote: I would be interested in knowing what he use for a release agent to get the lube out of the tubes!

Nothing like being a year and a half late on a reply. . .:idea1:

I use the silicone spray I get from auto parts stores as a mould release agent (for lube moulds ONLY). But I also use the silicone spray for my reloading presses and lubesizers--good lube, and not real messy.

I soak a paper towel with the silicone spray, then wipe the center rods with it, spray a little more on the soaked paper towel, then run it through the PVC moulds.

After I pour the lube in the moulds, I let it sit and firm up, then place it in the standup deep freeze. If it's cool/cold outside (not real often--this IS Texas), I'll sit it outside. If it's hot (real often--this IS Texas), I'll sit the cooling moulds on a shelf I have in front of the air conditioner in my shop.

Once cold, the mould and rods push out real easily.

I color code my lubes based on ingredients/uses when I'm melting the ingredients. Once cooled and removed from the moulds, I wrap them in wax paper then store them in tupperware type containers I get at the dollar store.

:coffee:

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CB posted this 15 April 2008

LoLo,

 

Many thanks, you have given me some ideas. :dude:

 

Jerry

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LoLo25643 posted this 15 April 2008

This has been a good topic and one that I've enjoyed reading. Here's an old pic of the setup that I've used for several years now with good results.

http://www.knology.net/~lolo/lube.jpg>http://www.knology.net/~lolo/lube.jpg

I made the base out of a scrap piece of UHMW plastic left over from work and the tubes were made from 1” EMT conduit. Then I used a 1-1/8” hole saw to cut a round groove about 3/16” deep and finished cutting it with a piece of the conduit with teeth filed in one end to dress up groove to fit the conduit. The center pins are 3/8” stainless rod pressed into an 11/32” hole for a tight fit. I've played around with several lubes but mostly use a fairly soft 50/50 mixture of beeswax and shortning for blackpowder shooting. After pouring the tubes full I sit the whole thing in the freezer for a couple of minutes and pull the tubes up off of the pins. Then I push the lube stick out with a 1” piece of cold rolled steel. The bottom is recessed in 3/16” so it gives me a good start. This softer lube ejects from the mould fairly easy but some of the harder ones stuck pretty good. The quickest and easiest method that I found to eject them was to use my wifes hair dryer to heat the outside of the EMT just a bit before pushing the stick out. The EMT is thin enough to heat pretty quick and let go of the stick. I usually just wrap the lube sticks up with old cut up Walmart bags or put them in a ziplock sandwitch bag.

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CB posted this 26 February 2008

Thats Great Jerry! Atta Boy!!! :wavw2:

This is part of the experimentation and innovation I like to see! Our sport wouldn't be able to move forward with out it!

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CB posted this 26 February 2008

This idea does work and well, so I can make hollow and solid sticks using the same basic mold.

 

Jerry

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CB posted this 25 February 2008

Jeff,

 

I was going to get the stuff this week and try it out.

 

Thanks,

Jerry

 

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CB posted this 25 February 2008

Give it a try Jerry, why not. If it works you will have a cheap fix to your problem, if not, then we will all know that isnt practical.

Maybe some of that miracle grease will keep it from sticking??

If you try this let us know how it turns out!

Jeff

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CB posted this 25 February 2008

As that mostyly use my Star Sizer for bullet lubing, but I do have an RCBS Lubematic, I thought that I could come up with a way to make hollow stick lube. So I did a rough drawing of what I think may work.

Jerry

 

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CB posted this 07 February 2008

I made 4 1/2 inch mold tubes. The current formula that I am making doesn't have much shrinkage, maybe a 1/4 inch. The lube works really great with many thanks from Jeff for his advise.

 

I have an idea on how to make hollow sticks with out the rod sticking up from the bottom of the tube. I will post pictures when I get that figured out.

 

Now what do you guys wrap you lube up in or do you just them in Zip Lock bags?

 

Many thanks,

 

Jerry

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CB posted this 02 February 2008

To Get the lube out of the short tubes, I took a 1” inch wooden dowel, inserted it in the mold and taped twice and the lube popped out. The split tube molds, require that I took the tape off, insert a 1” dowel and taped three times and it cleared the mold.

:}

Jerry

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CB posted this 24 January 2008

Gussy,

I am finding that out, but I may rework the split tubes. The EMT Conduit, I will probably shorten to 6 or 7 inches.

Jerry

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gussy posted this 24 January 2008

Shorter tubes work easily!!

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CB posted this 24 January 2008

Getting this out of the molds was a little primitive, I put a one inch dowel in the mold and hammer the dowel on the concrete floor. The lube came out with a few whacks. The EMT molds worked better than the solid PVC tubes. Next I will try the split tubes with some tape at the base of the tube where it meets the cap.

I will try changing things until I get something to work easily.

Jerry

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CB posted this 24 January 2008

Today, I finally had time to cast the bullet lube. I did 3 solid PVC tubes, 3 1nch EMT tubes. Try the split tubes, but the base is not tight with the end cap. So next time I will put friction tape around the base.

I did keep the temp to 160, the splits didn't leak. If I can find a place to post the pictures, I will.

Jerry

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