Has or does our CBA magazine The Fouling Shot publish rimfire articles?
.22 RF stories in The Fouling Shot Magazine?
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- Last Post 25 September 2016
You got an article, send it in!
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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imho 22 rf articles would help us in our wandering path to complete understanding and mastery of cast bullet repeatability .
how can a bulk box of 330 semi-reject 7 cent 22 rf shoot ( out of a 1 moa gun ) ... consistent 2 moa or less ?
maybe ... or maybe not ...the 2-in-the-morning inspiration will be created by evaluating what magic seems to exist in those farm boy favorites ...the 22long rifle ...
and besides the FS could use more articles ...
ken
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In all the fooling around I did with .22LR ammo, what mattered more than anything else was a BULLET FIT!!!!!!!! Same as with cast. Weighing loaded rounds, measuring rim thickness, etc. is all mental masturbation. Take your micrometer to the gun show and measure bullet diameter and buy the ones that are FAT .2240” or larger. Leave anything under .224 on the table. If you find a batch which measures .225, BUY IT ALL!
For reference go back and find my Gun Digest article.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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I'll look for that article. I have boxes of old Gun Digests. Can't throw anything out! Giorgio's recent 30-06 story in TFS referenced this same advice from Ed re. mimic good .22 RF ammo for accuracy. I'm no expert at all when it comes to the ins and outs of good .22 ammo but I do have a very accurate CZ with a 24” barrel! And somewhere a TargetMaster single shot that's not too worn out. I could do range test/report type story but probably no ground breaking stuff. I whoreded .22 ammo when I was still working so have a good supply there. More than Walmart has lately! Now I gotta break out the good stuff and start measuring. One thing I noticed way back was upper end target grade ammo was greasier than bulk blasting stuff.
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Old .22 ammo in which the lube has dried out can be restored. to shooting prime by removing the dried oxide with plain mineral oil USP on a patch, wiping away the excess with a dry patch, then shooting the same day.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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One of my recent Blue Press magazines has an ad from a company that is offering a kit to reload .22 LR. I intend to order a kit, the kit includes a bullet mold.
So, I guess if this takes off, the .22 LR anyway can join the CBA fun, with a hand loaded cast bullet, the same as centerfires.
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Only trick to doing the 22rf loadingis finding primed brass nowadays.Anyone know of a current source?Of course, one could pull loaded rounds for the brass..beltfed/arnie
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Ok, so now I read the ad for the loading kit.now, modifying my question to: What priming cpd is used toreprime fired brass? I do recall that back in WWII, there was some reloading , repriming done with strike anywhere matchheads. But even those are hard to find now.beltfed/arnie
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Beltfed, strike anywhere match heads - just the white part - are one option. Around here they are not that tough to find, but I have heard some states are apparently suppressing the sale of strike-anywhere matches. Damn do-gooders anyway.
Another option is to buy some “prime-all” from the guys selling this reloader, apparently “@19.99 worth will load about 2000 rounds of .22 LR". It comes as four different powdered ingredients, you mix them up and then dissolve in acetone, put into the fired brass.
They also offer an optional resizing die, so you can use your home-brew ammo in just about any gat you got. IMHO this would be a good idea and if I go for this I'll get the die. Murphy otherwise will provide I'll get a round stuck in one of my guns at a damn bad time.
Something I am not reading here is if these ersatz priming compounds are non-corrosive. I would push a few patches wet with water or use some old-school GI bore cleaner.
These guys IMHO need to speak up on this, I for one would be seriously pissed if I rusted the bore on one of my .22s with match head primers.
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M3,Indeed, the white part match heads probably have at least some Potassium Chlorate, which would produce corrosive salts upon burningAnd, we don't know what those ingredients are from the “kit guys"beltfed/arnie
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I would love to see an article on .22rf as I have a Ruger 10-22 with a Volquartsen barrel that won't hit a barn at 50yds. Maybe someone could figure that out.Mike
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When I removed the barrel band/front swivel from my old 10-22 (they came standard with a nice Black Walnut stock) it really tightened up the groups from the factory barrel.
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The newer “Greenlight” strike anywhere matches only have a tiny amount of Potassium Chlorate at the tip, even though the white portion on the match tip is pretty much the same size it ever was. Potassium Chlorate was scaled back because of people using it to ignite homemade pyrotechnics. The official story is that it was reduced because of environmental concerns.
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I do think these guys should spell out in BIG LETTERS OF FIRE that the match head trick results in a chlorate primer, (if that's true, I don't doubt you guys, but I also have no direct first-hand knowledge) which is fine to use as long as the bore is cleaned PROMPTLY USING HOT WATER OR SIMILAR. Otherwise I think they deserve to be sued back into the stone age by people who rust their barrels.
A lot of shooters, including your humble scribe here, are in the habit of not cleaning .22 rimfires, because, if normal ammo is used, there is hardly ever any need.
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accuracy problems in the ruger 10-22 is sort of a statistical thing.
:::very likely to only probably:::
1) bedding ...on a factory 10-22 there isn't any . it points a different way each time you pull the trigger.
2) trigger.....the trigger weighs more than the gun ... your finger gets fatigue from lifting that brick after a few shots . then your sniper brain says ” to heck with it, let's just spray a few ” ...
3) chamber ...hey they chamber these in 4.7 seconds ...sales are a million units per year, can't mess around ... and for autoloader function with junk ammunition the chamber can't be too snug ( ie perfect alignment )... ...
4) the barrel itself ...ok, actually the barrel is pretty good ...but tricky to set back and put in a match chamber because of the cutout for the clamp-on feature. some crutches would be to bush the original chamber and cut a new one ...or set back and shim the cutout to fit. usual thing is just give up and buy a new, match chambered and heavier barrel . some thread the action and install per regular screw-in methods .
imho the best compromise is first lighten the trigger and then bed the metal ...then shoot it to see if it meets your goals for accuracy . you might get a lucky chamber/barrel .
did i mention i love my 10-22, pretty much factory and shoots about 3-4 moa ? rolls bean cans at 35 yards:: exactly what i bot it for ... i can cut the groups in half by tightening /loosening the one action screw.. like i said:: no bedding .
ken
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Several thoughts:<>When testing, I often take a BSA Martini to the range to shoot first and assure I am shooting well.*><>I have never found one brand of .22 LR to be consistent; you must test lot numbers and learn.*><>I concur with the .224 diameter observation; it is the one consistent factor.*><>The American Single Shot Rifle Association has .22 LR matches and they publish results and, sometimes, equipment lists in their magazine.*>
I once had a few .22 LR factory-loaded with 40 grain jacketed bullets; they were the most accurate .22 LR I have ever shot.
Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest
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