BIG TARGETS

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  • Last Post 14 May 2016
joeb33050 posted this 24 April 2016

Sometimes I shoot at big targets, they're much easier to hit. One of the guys at the range suggested Reynolds Freezer Paper, 18” wide, at Walmart. I use Avery dots, from Staples, 1", for aiming points. The combination makes into big targets with as many dots as needed; and is much cheaper than big targets. Also, the freezer paper is plastic coated, and doesn't fall apart in the rain.  

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358156hp posted this 24 April 2016

Good point, Joe.

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Dirtybore posted this 25 April 2016

Big target but little dot. 1” dot is quite small. I use an 8” bull at 100 yds because I can see it over my open iron sights. If the targets are smaller then that, there's not much reason to pull the trigger.

If I'm bench shooting with a scope, I like the Leopold targets with the 4, 2” black squares.

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John Alexander posted this 25 April 2016

i believe the most precise aiming point for a scope with crosshairs is “hollow” square or circle of the right size for the scope power and distance.  The crosshairs can be centered in the white center easily and precisely. Joe's dots provide the same thing. The same principle is true for non-optical sights. A bead or front post can be centered very precisely on a white square piece of paper of the right size -- and it can be quite large.  I have shot < 1 moa groups with front beads blank sheets typing paper.  This works much better for me than a six o'clock hold even when I had young eyes. Of course with a high power scope you can aim precisely at almost anything. With hunting power scopes something white or bright to center on helps.  Of course that's just what works for me and not a proven fact. John

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Jeff Suever posted this 27 April 2016

huh, and I thought I was “frugal” formbuying paper plates and recycling the dots from the shoot-n-see targets...

Great idea that I am sure I will use.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 27 April 2016

Buy is a 4 letter word.

I use the 1-1/4 stickers (left overs from changing the label printers) we use at work for motors (bar code and such).

Put as many as I want on 18” squares of cardboard (packing material for impellers we put on the motors) that would be bailed and hauled off (for a price too!).

I just have to make (from scrap wood or scrap drops and rounds and angle iron) target holders.

And when I can get them the 4x6” mailing stickers are good off-hand 100 yd iron sight targets.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 28 April 2016

TRK...

borrowing from the graphics supply, eh ?

” raiders of the lost art “

ken

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 28 April 2016

Ken Campbell Iowa wrote: TRK...

borrowing from the graphics supply, eh ?

” raiders of the lost art “

ken

better than 'borrowing'.  The stuff includes remnents of a dozen or so labels that are wasted when setting up the label printers - done many times a week as different label sizes are needed.  So, repurposing potential trash comes closest to it.  It's win-win.

Good pun, though!

 

 

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M3 Mitch posted this 13 May 2016

John Alexander wrote: i believe the most precise aiming point for a scope with crosshairs is “hollow” square or circle of the right size for the scope power and distance.  The crosshairs can be centered in the white center easily and precisely. Joe's dots provide the same thing. The same principle is true for non-optical sights. A bead or front post can be centered very precisely on a white square piece of paper of the right size -- and it can be quite large.  I have shot < 1 moa groups with front beads blank sheets typing paper.  This works much better for me than a six o'clock hold even when I had young eyes. Of course with a high power scope you can aim precisely at almost anything. With hunting power scopes something white or bright to center on helps.  Of course that's just what works for me and not a proven fact. JohnMany of my old Winchesters have a round bead front sight, and I prefer a white bullseye as well.  One way is to take an old body grinder disc (~10” diameter) and put on cardboard, then spray black paint using the disc as a stencil.  I have not done a scientific test, like you this is little more than my opinion, but, if anyone wants to try it, welcome to the idea.

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loco posted this 13 May 2016

I too have changed the colors of the bull and the background , for years now. Old eyes just can't preform like young ones. I entered some postal shoots this year, without giving much thought to targets. Well...issue military blade,and black bullseye? Everything just ran together,and now I wonder how I even walk around without tripping over things. Ha ha,how about a (legally blind match No. 56) for all us visually handicapped ?

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gnoahhh posted this 13 May 2016

Aim small, hit small I say. I have never centered a bead on a bullseye. I've always been a 6 o'clock hold kind of guy.

Nobody's eyes are worse than mine. Very myopic and old age focusing issues to boot. Since I wear contacts to correct my vision, iron sights are nigh impossible for me to use- until I learned a couple tricks. First one is to perch a pair of 1.25x cheap reading glasses on my nose and peer through them when shooting. They sharpen the sight picture nicely and don't distort the view of the target enough to be an issue. I even hunt with them on. (I slide them up in front of my eyes with my thumb when I shoulder the rifle. Keeps me in the iron sights for hunting game.)

The other trick is to create a tiny aperture right in front of the eye, either via a commercially made gadget clipped to my shooting glasses or a simple hole poked in a piece of electrician's tape plastered on the lens of the shooting glasses. Focuses the light sufficiently for efficient use of iron sights- and permits the use of small targets. Aim small, hit small- remember?

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delmarskid1 posted this 13 May 2016

John Alexander wrote: i believe the most precise aiming point for a scope with crosshairs is “hollow” square or circle of the right size for the scope power and distance.  The crosshairs can be centered in the white center easily and precisely. Joe's dots provide the same thing. The same principle is true for non-optical sights. A bead or front post can be centered very precisely on a white square piece of paper of the right size -- and it can be quite large.  I have shot < 1 moa groups with front beads blank sheets typing paper.  This works much better for me than a six o'clock hold even when I had young eyes. Of course with a high power scope you can aim precisely at almost anything. With hunting power scopes something white or bright to center on helps.  Of course that's just what works for me and not a proven fact. John I had a rubber stamp made with a 2” square and a 1"empty circle inside. I made my targets on any piece of paper that I could find. The kids old school papers were good.

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mtngun posted this 14 May 2016

Ordinary copy paper tears and leaves ragged holes.   Lately I've been using 9x12 tagboard which is better than copy paper but still not as good as true target paper.

I use a ball point pen to draw horizontal and vertical lines on the paper, then 1” stick-on target dots.   The lines are very helpful both for aiming and to make sure the gun is not canted.  

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Larry Gibson posted this 14 May 2016

Over the years in the Army while closing out several ranges and inactivating units I collected numerous different targets of all description that were going to be thrown away.  Most of them are obsolete targets no longer used for one reason or another; I've even got some A, B and C old 5V targets.  I've enough to last me several more years even with the amount of shooting I do.  While I still use some of the targets as intended most often for testing loads I turn them over and stamp a new or several new aiming points on them.    Here is the back side of a 50 foot “Target, Course “C", reduced for 50-foot qualification firing” (used with the M16A1 with M262 .22LR system) with examples of the “stamped” aiming points I use.

Top left is a 1/2” square that can be used as a square or diamond. 

Top Right is a 3/4” square that can be used as a square or diamond.

(I most often use them as a diamond as aiming the bottom tip of the diamond give a very precise aiming point. Bother were self made (Sand drum in Dremel) stamps.

Center is a flowered designed I give a slight twist to when stamping to make it solid.  It makes for a very good 25 yard target for iron sights with handguns and a good 50 yard aiming point with lower powered scoped handguns.  It is 2 1/16” in diameter.

Bottom left is a + that can also be used as an X.   Bottom right is one of my fast becoming favorites.......for CBF match practice.  For military score matches if I can keep all the bullets at least cut the outside of the circle they will be a 10.  With my Hvy Rifle if all the bullets are at least just inside the circle they will also score at least a 10. Of course blasting away at a peace symbol does this old soldiers heart good......no offense meant to the old hippies out there......

Concealment is not cover.........

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