No more hammering front sights.

  • 1.7K Views
  • Last Post 29 July 2016
2coldhere posted this 19 March 2016

Was going to make a sight pusher for my 71/84 Mauser, but came up with something a lot easier.  Use a vice grip for the power and an adapter for the other jaw that clears the dovetail.  Made this one out of .25 square aluminum with a .25 slot to clear dovetail.

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John Alexander posted this 20 March 2016

Very clever.  Why didn't I think of that. John

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onondaga posted this 20 March 2016

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_user.php?id=7910>2coldhere

Beautiful tip! Thank you.

Gary

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Cary Gunn posted this 28 July 2016

Gents,

Let me be the first to suggest that “2coldhere's” ingenious sight-pusher idea be “stickied."

It's a brilliantly simple solution to a task all of us have faced, or soon will.  It deserves prominent placement on the forum as a great DIY tip.

Thanks, 2coldhere.

Happy trails,

-- Cary Gunn --

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gnoahhh posted this 28 July 2016

Two questions: Is the photo set up to show insertion or removal, and is there provision for protecting the sight from jaw marks?

If the pic is for demonstration purposes, may I kindly suggest that if it shows sight removal the positioning should be reversed. Since time immemorial, dovetailed sights remove from left to right and inserted from right to left, with the barrel pointed away from the viewer.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 28 July 2016

could be it is just showing minor adjustment, not removal/insertion .

i love these hints and kinks ...

got a problem ? wheel, inclined plane, screw threads ....i would like to add hydraulics .... one of these gotta work .

ken

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2coldhere posted this 28 July 2016

It's for adjustment only. I've never had any reason to remove a mil-surp sight. The jaws of the 40 year old vice grips were already flattened so it didn't leave any marks. I suppose you could put a piece of metal in there if you wanted to. From the pic, I'm moving the sight to the left to make the bullet impact to the right. Must have worked well as I've recently upped the CBA record in Big Bore 40 round standing. Targets haven't been sent in yet until some details get straightened out at HQ. I now own four Military Standing records but he site hasn't been updated in a year.

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beltfed posted this 28 July 2016

And now if “We” can devise a similar tool/adaptor to this technique to push a sight that isdovetailed directly into a barrel.beltfed/arnie

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 28 July 2016

beltfed... please expand your need for a similar gadget ....i missed the problem .... hey it isn't even noon yet ... ( g ) ...

ken

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2coldhere posted this 28 July 2016

Beltfed: I thought that's what my tool did. I'll bring it to the next Military match and show it to you. Maybe the Hwy O Gun Shop could do that too. You know their motto? “If we can't fix it, we'll fix it so no one can"

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beltfed posted this 28 July 2016

Say I have a rifle on which the front sight is dovetailed directly into the barrel--as in its Not on a base. I need to move the sight left or right in its slot on the barrel to zero the rifle since the rear sight is not adjustable for windage. In the clever use of an alum block and vise grip shown here, the front sight “blade"is mounted in a base. So, one is pushing or actually squeezing with the vise With the directly barrel sight, one must clamp something to the barrel to provide an"anchor" against which to “squeeze” the sight left or right. Darn. Did all that make sense?  Kind of tortuous rambling thought process to try to explain what I meantbeltfed/arnie

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2coldhere posted this 28 July 2016

Yes, now I understand the problem. Let me put some thought into it.

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beltfed posted this 28 July 2016

I can imagine a Pair of Vise grips. One on each side of the barrel dovetailed sight. Clamp say a 1"x 1/4” length of CRS alongside the sight-set high enough to be in line withthe side of the sight. then use a third vise grip to do the squeezing on the sight from the CRS bar. Obviously, need to protect the barrel finish with say strips of copper sheet.But would probably slip on a round barrel . Should work fine on an octagon barrel Otherwise, use two ubolts around the barrel instead of the vise grips. But the vise grips you came up with are quick to clamp and take off.beltfed/arnie

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beltfed posted this 28 July 2016

Oh, regarding your vise grips plus the little Alum block with notch. Again, great idea. Another thought on this.  Why not cut your 0.25” notch lengthwise in one jaw of the vise grip.Then do the “clamping” with the vise grip vertical to the sight. No Alum block necessary.Of course then your vise grip is kind of dedicated to be a sight adjusting too.beltfed/arnie

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Brodie posted this 28 July 2016

Brownells sells a beautiful little sight adjustment, removal tool for not a whole lot of money. I know that bullet casters are cheap, but if I had a Trap door for example and did not want to bluing and or barrel dinged up I would break down and buy one instead of using  something that would most likely hurt the finish. It is a good idea though especially on some old milsurp that you don't have much money in. Brodie

B.E.Brickey

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beltfed posted this 28 July 2016

Old Coot.(like me,too)I agree about using the correct equipment on a valuable gun original or repro.In fact I have one of the commercially made sight pushers to do the job that 2coldhereimprovised for. It works great for pushing a front sight in a ramp, or other base.  BUT, It is not made for pushing a direct barrel dovetailed sight. It, too would require something clamped on the barrel itself to “push or pull against" beltfed/arnie

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2coldhere posted this 29 July 2016

Am I tight? My SASS alias is Titewad for a reason. Beltfed: I was thinking the same thing as on your post #13. Could probably get away with only one vise grip on the barrel.

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Brodie posted this 29 July 2016

I know what you mean about cheap.  For years I have made brass drifts out of 1/4 “  brazing rod. I do remember having seen a sight pusher with long forks on one side and the screw mechanism on the other.  You could adapt to a non ramped front sight by hogging out (use a round file) a groove to the appropriate depth in a block of lead and use that to push against instead of directly on the barrel steel.

B.E.Brickey

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