6 mm Norma vs. 6 mm Remington BR

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  • Last Post 05 October 2015
billglaze posted this 05 October 2015

I'm currently tussling with the idea of buying a Savage Model 12 BR in 6 mm Norma BR.I'm having second thoughts, after finding that cases cost almost $100 per 100--nearly a buck apiece.  Of course, rhey'll hopefully last a long time.  Also, a reloading web site I visited said that Norma was virtually forced into naming the round “Norma BR” by the officials of their version of our SAAMI.  And, that it is identical to the Remington 6 mm BR, which is not exactly mainstream, but at least, sounds like it's U.S. born.  In fact, I get the feeling that I may be causing a lot of trouble for myself, possibly in directions I am not even aware of--yet.  The rifle, new, comes with a very fine looking test target, indicating a high degree of precision.  I'm really on a fence--a very high one, topped with a triple strand of razor wire.  Painful.I'm looking for opinions--actual experience, rumors, insights, gut feelings, anything.  All will be considered.Thanks for any opinions--pro or con.  Both sides will be given consideration. Bill

In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. My fate is not entirely in Gods hands, if I have a weapon in mine.

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Bud Hyett posted this 05 October 2015

The cases are the same; you will fire-form to the chamber anyway. I have a custom 6mm BR on a Savage Striker that is built to the Remington case and I use Lapua brass in it marked for the Norma case. I bought three hundred cases and still have them after three years of match shooting.   I use Remington 7½ primers which have proved the best over the Federal and Winchester. I was using Varget and Reloder #7, both of which are now scarce. I plan of trying VitaVhorti N133 and N1135 powder when I experiment again.   The twist needs to be 1 in 10” to stabilize the heavier bullets. I have the Eagan 68 grain, SAECO 75 grain, SAECO 85 grain, RCBS 95 grain and RCBS 100 grain molds which I have used for extensive testing. The SAECO 85 grain mold throws a bullet at 93 grains which is good; anything lighter really drifts in the wind at 200 yards. The RCBS 100 grain bullet is too long for my throat and the gas check sticks way back into the powder.  The EAGAN 68 grain mold was bought for a 6X47 with 1 in 14” twist and does not shoot well in that rifle.   The alloy needs to be very hard since you will shoot higher velocities to lessen the impact of the lighter bullets. I had monotype to start with and now use linotype. Sizer dies are .243 and .244; you will need the larger to start. Seating is critical, just lightly touching into the throat is a good starting point.   You will get twice as many bullets per pound as a .30 caliber, less recoil in a match, use less powder and gain the satisfaction of experimenting with a new approach. Now that you are experimenting, I may go and start again with the Striker.  My thought is to hit a prairie dog at 150 to 200 yards to see the impact of a small cast bullet.

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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billglaze posted this 05 October 2015

BHyatt: Thanks for your advisory.  I find your information useful in the extreme; while right now, I have been thinking only in terms of jb's, but, as you have probably guessed, after I have worked out basic reloding kinks, I anticipate the rifle probably will seldom, if ever, see any more jb's.Your insightful information will be put to good use. Lordy, how I love this forum! Bill

In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. My fate is not entirely in Gods hands, if I have a weapon in mine.

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