RCBS berdan decamping tool

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  • Last Post 20 July 2015
buffer posted this 30 June 2015

i recently acquired a used RCBS Berdan decapping tool . I had read a lot of less than glowing reviews and that the tool was no longer available. After searching for new pins all over the web I finally contacted RCBS support told them my problem they sent me a couple of replacement pins free of charge. As soon as I got the pins I set up the tool and started depriming 7.5x55 Swiss brass. I managed to do three or four and quickly broke the pin entirely my fault because I forced it when I met firm resistance. Needless to say I was frustrated and down to 1 pin. I started all over and the pinhead would keep slipping so I thought I would place the pinhead in the firing pin indent to give it a better anchor using firm but not great pressure I was able to do Ten in a row without slipping out. I then ran into one that started alright but slipped so I turned the casing a quarter turn and out it came. I finished 50 more in a little over twenty minutes. I know people who swear by hydraulic depriming but had no luck when I tried it. I am very happy with the RCBS toolAnd am glad I stuck to it until I understood how to use it

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Mike H posted this 30 June 2015

buffer wrote: i recently acquired a used RCBS Berdan decapping tool . I had read a lot of less than glowing reviews and that the tool was no longer available. After searching for new pins all over the web I finally contacted RCBS support told them my problem they sent me a couple of replacement pins free of charge. As soon as I got the pins I set up the tool and started depriming 7.5x55 Swiss brass. I managed to do three or four and quickly broke the pin entirely my fault because I forced it when I met firm resistance. Needless to say I was frustrated and down to 1 pin. I started all over and the pinhead would keep slipping so I thought I would place the pinhead in the firing pin indent to give it a better anchor using firm but not great pressure I was able to do Ten in a row without slipping out. I then ran into one that started alright but slipped so I turned the casing a quarter turn and out it came. I finished 50 more in a little over twenty minutes. I know people who swear by hydraulic depriming but had no luck when I tried it. I am very happy with the RCBS toolAnd am glad I stuck to it until I understood how to use itIf you need more pins,they are easily made out of old Allen keys.Mike.

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buffer posted this 30 June 2015

Thanks Mike      Not something I would have thought of. Smart thinking

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gnoahhh posted this 30 June 2015

Allen keys, and correct diameter drill bits. Just be careful not to “burn” the steel when cutting/grinding to length/shape. I messed with one of those tools for years with varying degrees of success. Then I discovered the joys of hydraulic de-priming and never looked back. Sold the Lachmiller (RCBS) tool for more than I paid for it and went out and bought some beer with the money. Then it got hard to find Berdan primers and I got away from it entirely.

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buffer posted this 30 June 2015

I have tried hydraulic depriming but ant seem to get the hang of it . I followed a few of the YouTube videos with little success . I spent 40 years in the Canadian Navy as a boatswain and took up Guns as a hobby when I retired. I lack the skills to machine anything that I have had any success with. Your tips about drill bits and not overheating them is appreciated

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gnoahhh posted this 30 June 2015

A close fit of the hydraulic ram in the case neck is essential- not so much for efficiency in driving out the primer but to minimize the water in the face from blow-by.

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billglaze posted this 30 June 2015

I got real tired real fast when local dealers wanted $1.25 for 5 decapping pins that were nothing but '062 and .040 hardened piano wire. So, digging into my box of model airplane supplies, I pulled out a length of .062 wire and cut off about a half dozen lengths about 3/4” or so long. Haven't bought another decapping pin for years. Available at most Hobby Shops in your area! Bill

In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is. My fate is not entirely in Gods hands, if I have a weapon in mine.

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buffer posted this 01 July 2015

I think the pins are for RCBS boxer decappers I got a set of 6 sent when I tried for the decapper pins. They were as you said little more than wire. The pins I needed were at least 3/16ths tapered to a point. I appreciate your help

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thors posted this 20 July 2015

I have used the RCBS tool since the late 60's! The first poster's tips on the end of the post are basically the way you use the tool. The Berdan decapping pins are not “wire"! They are sharpened, hardened steel pins that have a sharp bevel on one end. Totally different from a regular FL die depriming pin. You  need to know that some countries make their military ammo so that the fired primers are cemented (or something) into the primer pocket. The French rifle primers are impossible to remove. The Swiss are easiest to deprime and probably have the best fired brass that can be found in the world! Don't ask me where to get Berdan primers. Wolf made some but as they weren't supported in great enough numbers, they are not imported to my knowledge anymore. PMC the same story. I've always had Berdan primers around through the years and I am using some Norma primers that were made in the 70's. Trying to get cast bullets to work in an Austrian 8x50R Cavalry Carbine (Model 95) in all original shape (Not 8x56R modified crap). Beautiful bore. No luck yet. Perhaps I will write up my project for the Fouling Shot... Greg T. Hayward, Wi

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Millelacs posted this 20 July 2015

I tried the Lachmiller / RCBS tool in South Africa, in the early '90's, with poor success.

It was difficult enough getting it set in the first place (with significant wastage), but when I changed brands / headstamps I started digging into the anvil in the casings and had to reset the tool.

I used it on both 7.62 Nato and .303 British, military and if I recall correctly some commercial.

That said, I know it can be done.  I saw a water bucket 2/3 full of deprimed .38 Spl Berdan casings for sale at a gunshop.  They were in excellent shape, so it can be done.  I just never learned how.

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thors posted this 20 July 2015

I know what you mean! There is a technique that has to be developed, a “feel” for this kind of depriming that comes through a lot of practice. When I was on the old Curio and Relics list, I took most every Berdan rifle brass empty that I could get for a nickel each. Some gave me hundreds of Swiss Berdan empties for just paying the shipping. I managed to get a good sample of brass from 20-25 countries. I have well over a hundred US ammo cans full of Berdan brass from many countries. At the same time, I went all over the state of Wisconsin buying Berdan primers from folks who tried Berdan reloading and didn't like it. Now I'm set for priming both ways. If someone reading this is currently reloading Berdan military brass, REMEMBER to deprime the Berdan military primer and THEN wash the deprimed case in soapy water to kill the salt residue that is in the case and if you don't, that residue will transfer to your bore on the next shot with the corrosive salt that remained in the case and screw up your bore royally! Thanks for the reply. You must go back a few years of experience using the Lachmiller tool! I liked the bench mounted Lachmiller primer tool, probably the best and simplest ever made. Someone must still own the patent for this as I have never seen a replica of one. Greg Topp "Thors" Hayward, Wi

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