My Lee 10 lb. Bottom pour has served me well for over 13 years and is still ticking. But this weekend after brewing up about 50 lbs. Of Lyman #2 I decided that twas time for a bigger pot! Gonna order a Lee 20 lb. Bottom pour. Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Pat, the bottom pour system on the 4-20 is different from the 10 pounder bottom pour system. I think you will like it better too.
Adjusting the flow rate screw takes a delicate touch...get a good look at those parts to see how they work. It is really a mechanical limiting adjuster with a small range and can be over adjusted for constant flow, watch out for that!
Gary
Attached Files
It doesn't look like you can see the spout, up front where it belongs IMHO, on the 20 pounder or is it just not visible on the pictures in ads?
Mike
Attached Files
The spout is up front and the 4-20 also has a very useful adjustable mold guide.
The spout is NOT shown in the new instructions from Lee but the mold guide is shown well as is the new design valve adjusting screw and new valve knob handle design. Link to NEW PDF from Lee:
http://leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/EL3469.pdf
These look like practical design improvements in the 4-20
I bet Pat gets the new one!
Gary
Attached Files
I think that I will order one this week. No, I'm not getting rid of my 10lb. pot. I'll use both of them. Yes there are other melters on the market . . . for a whole lot more money that don't function any better than LEE. I've put that little 10 lb. pot through the mill! I have no idea how many thousands of bullets I've cast with it. Am looking forward to the new one! Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Just ordered my new LEE 20 lb. pot from FS Reloading. Good price at $59.99 + $14.85 shipping. Can't wait to get it.
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Received my 20 lb bottom pour yesterday. I have never used that big of pot before. Always a 10 lb whether cast iron or bottom pour. 20 lbs. is a lot of lead! Melt time was rapid and adjusting the pour spout was easy. I attached my PID probe & plugged it into the PID and off to the races! Money well spent!
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
Hi Pat, I'm wondering if the Lee Pot you got has the new design metal lift knob or if it has the previous wooden knob?
The new one also has a simpler flow valve adjustment I haven't tried yet but it looks great.
The flow system on the 20 lb pot is very different than the 10 pounder and an important warning in the instructions is different. Either empty the pot to ingots or leave no more than about 1/2 inch metal when shutting down at the end of a session. The reason for this is that a pot that is more full than 1/2 inch will have the metal in the pot expand when heating a cold pot and this expanding is likely to move the valve assembly and allow flow at a time you don't want flow.
I pour ingots till pot is empty at the end of a session and then allow the pot to cool so I can spray the whole pot inside and valve assembly with silicone spray or WD40. This lube step is a very good rust preventative for the pot and valve assembly.
I hope you enjoy your new pot and report back.
Gary
Attached Files
I need a lead pot of any size but would like a 20# even if not bottom pour. I left my 10# Lee bottom pour with a friend for tending to my casting and reloading stuff for me.
Attached Files
It doesn't look like you can see the spout, up front where it belongs IMHO, on the 20 pounder or is it just not visible on the pictures in ads?
It's a big problem for me. However good the 20 is, it cannot match the 10's visibility on both the content and the spout.
The new spout is also squarish, while the 10's had a tit shaped one with which I could cast with my eyes closed.
Attached Files
I have posted numerous times, a simple way to defeat what you term a visibility problem and enhance your casting skill with any bottom pour casting pot.
Get off your feet and stop stooping over to see the casting pot spout. Sit down at your bench and elevate the pot to put the spout at eye level. A couple squares of 2 X10 lumber works fine under the pot base, they don't drift or cause a safety concern and do put the spout at eye level when you are seated at the bench.
I particularly recommend this working position to get a very clear view of the molten metal flow into the mold sprue gate hole when practicing to master the casting method called “Swirl Casting” where the metal flow is maintained off center by 1/2 the flow diameter onto the slope of the sprue gate's hole so air exit from the mold is undisturbed and the swirl motion of the metal into the mold is initiated by the off center pour into the mold held at a 5 degree tilt on the mold guide set for a 1/2 inch flow length from the spout to the gate hole.
This practice gives you a very clear view of the spout, metal flow and sprue gate hole for practicing and mastering “Swirl Casting” to eliminate cold spot or hot spot porosity and improve casting quality. I only pour this way and never allow the error of gurgling a metal flow dead center into a mold sprue gate hole that impedes metal inflow and air escape when casting that causes a variety of casting flaws.
"Swirl Casting” is many thousands of years old and was used and documented by ancient gold workers for the Egyptian Pharoas as miscasting and casting flaws with the Pharaoh's gold were punished by death.
Gary
Attached Files
Hi Pat, I'm wondering if the Lee Pot you got has the new design metal lift knob or if it has the previous wooden knob?
The new one also has a simpler flow valve adjustment I haven't tried yet but it looks great.
The flow system on the 20 lb pot is very different than the 10 pounder and an important warning in the instructions is different. Either empty the pot to ingots or leave no more than about 1/2 inch metal when shutting down at the end of a session. The reason for this is that a pot that is more full than 1/2 inch will have the metal in the pot expand when heating a cold pot and this expanding is likely to move the valve assembly and allow flow at a time you don't want flow.
I pour ingots till pot is empty at the end of a session and then allow the pot to cool so I can spray the whole pot inside and valve assembly with silicone spray or WD40. This lube step is a very good rust preventative for the pot and valve assembly.
I hope you enjoy your new pot and report back.
Gary
Gary,
Yes, mine has the metal lift knob on it. I'm really impressed with being able to adjust the flow. Much more control resulting in smaller sprues.
I read the post concerning the ability to see the spout but I have no problem with that due that it simply becomes automatic in placing the mold in the proper position. I don't have to see the spout in that respect. It's a simple matter of gauging distance. the new pot is a joy to use and as always with LEE products . . . the price is right!
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
Attached Files
I have posted numerous times, a simple way to defeat what you term a visibility problem and enhance your casting skill with any bottom pour casting pot.
Get off your feet and stop stooping over to see the casting pot spout. Sit down at your bench and elevate the pot to put the spout at eye level. A couple squares of 2 X10 lumber works fine under the pot base, they don't drift or cause a safety concern and do put the spout at eye level when you are seated at the bench.
I particularly recommend this working position to get a very clear view of the molten metal flow into the mold sprue gate hole when practicing to master the casting method called “Swirl Casting” where the metal flow is maintained off center by 1/2 the flow diameter onto the slope of the sprue gate's hole so air exit from the mold is undisturbed and the swirl motion of the metal into the mold is initiated by the off center pour into the mold held at a 5 degree tilt on the mold guide set for a 1/2 inch flow length from the spout to the gate hole.
This practice gives you a very clear view of the spout, metal flow and sprue gate hole for practicing and mastering “Swirl Casting” to eliminate cold spot or hot spot porosity and improve casting quality. I only pour this way and never allow the error of gurgling a metal flow dead center into a mold sprue gate hole that impedes metal inflow and air escape when casting that causes a variety of casting flaws.
"Swirl Casting” is many thousands of years old and was used and documented by ancient gold workers for the Egyptian Pharoas as miscasting and casting flaws with the Pharaoh's gold were punished by death.
Gary We agree to disagree. Back when I was casting .30 rifle bullets I did a lot of testing both visually and with a scale. Was using linotype at the time which of course casts a bullet about as easily as is possible. There was absolutely no doubt that I cast good bullets EVERY time IF the pour hit the center of the sprue hole and not the edges. A steady flow is also essential. I haven't used a ladle in many years but I strongly suspect the reason a ladle is effective in the hands of those that use it is that the stream is both steady and centered but I don't know how to prove or disprove that notion. A fellow from Germany wrote a note on CB-L many years ago and those 2 items were his main points also. Think he casts around a quarter milllion or so a year. And when you cast that way you get complete fillout with a small sprue. FWIW
Mike
Attached Files
My setup insures that I can see the alloy hitting the sprue hole.
Mike
Attached Files
Nice looking setup. Are the two pots for what it look like -- high volume casting with one feeding the other? John
Attached Files
Nice looking setup. Are the two pots for what it look like -- high volume casting with one feeding the other?
John
Works out very nicely feeding the bottom one which I now have a PID for. Gives me about as high a volume as one can get using DC moulds. Biggest problem I have now is trying to shoot em' all up!
Mike
Attached Files
RicinYakima
37
Bud Hyett
22
pat i
22
OU812
21
Premod70
21
Pentz
21
oscarflytyer
19
linoww
19
Shuz
19
.22-10-45
19
