Eagan taper die

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  • Last Post 29 September 2023
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lotech posted this 23 September 2023

You truly have too much stuff when you find a new, unused item you not only didn't know you had but don't recall ordering...

While looking for an old .357 die  today, I found an Eagan taper die. I ordered an Eagan MX3 -30ARD mould about twenty-five years ago. It's been my favorite .30 cal. mould design for a couple of .308 rifles for quite some time. I apparently ordered the taper die, marked only "Eagan 30T" at the same time I purchased the mould. 

After examining this mould, I think I've figured out how it works. However, for those who use these taper dies, are there any special tips? I have the old Eagan catalog and one thing it mentions is that the bullet should be well-lubed before inserting in the die. Thank you all for any advice or suggestions.    

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Ross Smith posted this 23 September 2023

I use case lube(Hornady) to lube my bullets before bumping in a bump die. Did you get the taper die that is used in a lyman lub-sizer? Let me know if you hate it, I'll take it. I also just molded up some 30 ard's for my ardito rifle.

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OU812 posted this 23 September 2023

You have a highly collectable mould and die set. Do your research before selling. Didn't Eagan bump dies mount in the Lyman lubesizer ?

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Ross Smith posted this 23 September 2023

I'll have to re-read the catalog. I thought he made 2 styles. But yes they go in a lube sizer which can't handle too much pressure. Enjoy the find LOTECH.

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lotech posted this 23 September 2023

Thank you all for the comments. I'd never sell any of this stuff. I've used the Eagan mould for a long time and it's easily the most accurate of all my .30 caliber moulds and I have a few. I use these bullets in two straight-out-of-the-box .308 factory rifles, a Remington 700 VS and a Ruger 77V. I've had the rifles a good bit longer than the Eagan mould. 

The MX3-30ARD bullets don't need a taper die for my purposes, but I probably have at least one or two designs that may benefit from the die. I have a Lyman lubrisizer that doesn't see much use as I prefer my SAECO lubrisizers for most purposes, but the Eagan die will only work in the Lyman or RCBS tools according to the writeup in Eagan's catalog. 

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Ross Smith posted this 23 September 2023

Which degree taper is the die?

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lotech posted this 23 September 2023

I've tried no bullets in it yet, but I'm pretty sure it is the standard 30T that tapers from .316" to .285" according to catalog reference.  

Had it been one the "special" dies, I think Don Eagan would have marked it acccordingly. MIne is marked "30T".

I also  have the MX seating depth and taper sizing gauge as well as the bullet base chamfer tool. Just wish I'd bought a few more Eagan moulds to experiment with. 

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Ross Smith posted this 23 September 2023

I'm jealous.

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Glenn R. Latham posted this 24 September 2023

lotech,

   Use a flat top punch if you have one, otherwise a top punch about the diameter of the bullet.  Better yet would be to make one that the base of the bullet set into to keep it perfectly straight.  Then experiment with different size "spacers" that you can slip between the die ring and the bottom of the ram, to provide a consistent depth stop.

Glenn

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Ross Smith posted this 26 September 2023

Did some head scratching and reading. I purchased on ebay an rcbs rc junior with what looked like a bump die on it. Turns out it is an Eagan mx30G taper die that has been soldered into a body that is threaded for a press and has an extraction push rod. One degree taper. Perfect for my Ardito 308x1.625, works like a charm.

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4and1 posted this 28 September 2023

A modern version, I had a mold made with a 35 minute taper and a throating reamer made to the same spec. Still learning it, but shows good promise.

To clarify, this 35 minute is per side. 

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lotech posted this 28 September 2023

Again, thank you all for the comments. Certainly a knowledgeable group here. 

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OU812 posted this 29 September 2023

Another modern version, I had a ptg reamer made .310 diameter with 1.5 degree included angle. Cut both the chamber throat and bump die using same reamer. This improved accuracy dramatically, but still get occasional flier 🤔

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