Some you guys been talking muzzleloader shooting on the forum this summer got me all enthused about making some tools. I fired up my metal lathe and turned down some bronze rod to correct diameter. Got out my box of old antlers and whittled on them. Was a lot a fun and sure needed em......Dan
Muzzleloader Ball Starters
- 3.8K Views
- Last Post 16 January 2014
Dan,
Very nice! I too make my own ball starters since the ones you can buy are poor at best. All of my round ball rifles require a relatively tight ball/patch combination with minimal patch lube to give their best accuracy. A correctly made ball starter will allow you to use a heavy rubber mallet to get the ball started into the rifling without distorting the ball's shape. Making the “ball-set” or short nub is the difficult part since the curve on its face needs to exactly match the ball's curvature, and be just long enough to position the ball flush with the muzzle end of the barrel so your patch knife will cut the smallest patch without scraping the ball. Good loading tools go a long way to match-winning accuracy.
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Thanks for the tips curator. I knew about tight patches and lubed-dry patches. Never thought about exact ball to seater fit. I used a round mill end reamer so it should be pretty close. Maybe a final lap would bring it in perfect. Ya, I trim patch as close to ball as possible.....Dan
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To “lap” the ball-set part for my .50 caliber starters, I cover a .490 round ball with #320 emery cloth and chuck the brass starter rod in m electric drill. A few minutes of polishing and the face matches the ball's curve perfectly. Getting the “height” correct is a cut and fit proposal and takes a bit more time.
Check out the loading tools the chunk gun guys use. They are often loading grove diameter round balls with thick patching material. Their loading tools allow them to apply a lot of force (heavy Loading mallets) without deforming the ball.
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Some you guys been talking muzzleloader shooting on the forum this summer got me all enthused about making some tools. I fired up my metal lathe and turned down some bronze rod to correct diameter. Got out my box of old antlers and whittled on them. Was a lot a fun and sure needed em......Dan
Dan, Those are really nice! Do you sell them?
Pat
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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Hi Pat. I'm not in the business, but I'd make you one as long as yer not one of them idiots that voted for Obama ;) . PM sent...Dan
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Hi Pat. I'm not in the business, but I'd make you one as long as yer not one of them idiots that voted for Obama ;) . PM sent...Dan
Oh no! I'm strictly republican!
If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.
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those are very nice, much nicer than mine. i make my own on the lathe too but i use very non tradional nylon round stock. I use 1.5” diameter for my .69 and .72 and turn down half of a 10” long piece to .675” and leave the other half full diameter. The full diameter side can be the “hammer” end and the close to barrel diameter shaft gives tremendous leverage making tight patch/ball combination a snap to start. What i like about the nylon is there is no way it will damage the bore or crown.
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I was thinking about trying Derlin rod for a hammer in ball starter, but nylon would probably be better. Admiral, you got a picture of yours?...
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Dan Willems, i could send you a cell phone picture
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Dan Willems,
i could send you a cell phone picture
PM sent...
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Dan, I'm interested in one of your ball starters but, the picture doesn't show in the forum. I'm still working out what is best in my 50 cal. CVA Plainsman, patched ball or Lee REAL, Pyrodex or black powder. Steve Ocala, FL
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