Ruger LCP 380auto "Starting Ideas/Input" For my wife.

  • 7.6K Views
  • Last Post 29 August 2010
NITROTRIP posted this 08 May 2010

HI All, I just picked up a Ruger LCP 380auto. Never have cast for this cal, or this type of pistol. A lot of 45auto, 45 colt, 357, 44mag. But nothing this small. I have a Lyman mold #356242   120gr round nose. I want to load cast practice rounds for my wife. Lite powder with a heavy bullet to help cycle the action. She is fine with heavy recoil (push) but not sharp with heavy muzzle blast. She likes my 686 Smith .357 with a 180gr cast but light powder load. But no factory stuff. Now for the 380. The powder I have on hand is, Bulseye, 231, clays, might have a few others that I  don't  rember  at the moment. What do you guy's think? Like what to watch out for? Stay away from? What has worked for you? For her to carry is going to be factory stuff. This it for lite practice to make use like touching up the lipstick out of the purse, useing the cell phone, second nature if that time comes. Hopefully never. Something she will practice with and have fun. Not WHAM! that stings to shoot. None of that +p stuff. Thank You All,

Rick

Attached Files

Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
hunterspistol posted this 08 May 2010

:coffee  Lyman 49th suggests that groove diameters have varied, that wreaks havoc on accuracy.  Wouldn't hurt to get some soft slugs (LBT) and size to groove diameter. Chamber restrictions make it generally unsafe to load bullets larger than .355.

Heavy, long bullets of .355 diameter may cause case bulging due to internal case taper. This may be ignored as long as the outside diameter at the bulge does not exceed .374 inch. 

    1.6 grains of Bullseye for 120 grain

 Ron

 

Attached Files

Duane Mellenbruch posted this 09 May 2010

NITROTRIP wrote:  Ruger LCP 380auto.  I have a Lyman mold #356242   120gr round nose. I want to load cast practice rounds for my wife.

Rick

I have a few of the Lyman 358242 molds including one that has been altered to cast a lighter weight bullet for my own Walther .380.  When you read the comments about reloading this caliber, the main problem is long and heavy bullets swelling the inner taper of the case and creating feeding issues with bullets larger than .355. 

For less than 20.00 you can get a Lee two cavity 102 grain RN and not have to worry about cases swelling, and still move up to the .356 diameter bullets if the chamber will allow for that.  I realize that folks still try to make do with what they have, but this is sort of a one time investment and you have not even determined what size bullet will be needed to give acceptable accuracy. 

Your best course of action would be to slug the barrel as Hunterspistol suggests to see what you really need.  THEN, determine if what you have is appropriate or not.  Are you considering matching the bullet weight of the cast load to the bullet weight of the carry ammo?  Just something to consider when selecting a mold.  Duane

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 09 May 2010

Thank You, Ron & Duane. This is exactly the kind of info I am looking for. I did'nt know about the case swelling issue with the longer bullets. We live in a Mexico border state and she wants a carry permit. And wants to practice a lot so where or how it is carried she will be able to use it as second nature. Matching up to factory carry loads is not realy an issue. This little shooter is for pepper spray distance. Even if she has reload fail to feeds that is the kind of practice she wants. I was impressed, she has not shot a lot but has realy given this some deep consideration. Even to the point of asking me if I could get some reloads that would random fail to feed. So as to practice clearing and getting back to action. Thats my girl, and she is very serious about doing this right and have confedence in herself. I have never in 40yrs of reloading,had anyone ask me to load a few rounds to random not feed an auto. To practice clearing a jam and get back into action. That includes working with police and some military. This Ruger LCP fell into my lap a few days ago. We have'nt even shot it yet. Started looking at carry pistols about 6 weeks ago. The buddy I got it from could not shoot it. He has 7foot basketball player hands. He said it was like trying to shoot his remote key for his Toyota. LOL!!! I still laugh at him about that. If you all have any tips, ideas, suggestions, lets keep this going a while. We all have love ones that might be helped by this discussion.

Thank You All, Your the best,

Rick

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 09 May 2010

     If you do a lot of practice reloads, I have some ideas.  I do 100s of rounds for silhouette and some for sheer entertainment.  I use a heated Lyman 4500 sizer and Carnuba Red. Carnuba Red is a beloved hard lube that leaves a great shine in the barrel.  http://www.lsstuff.com/index.html>http://www.lsstuff.com/index.html 

     To keep the lubes from getting sticky or messy, I drop sized bullets directly into ground mica, it's a good lube in itself.  I wipe the mica off after seating the bullet, no worries there.  White Label lubes are good and inexpensive to use.  I just clean the stuff with mineral spirits (paint thinners).  Lead bullets don't require copper solvents so, no fancy cleaners are required. Factory ammo is harder to clean up after, the combination of the two worse.  If you find yourself in that boat, a tin of acetone (more lumber yard stuff) will take most of it out of your way.

Attached Files

hunterspistol posted this 09 May 2010

     For on the cheap the mica works, and in case you go looking for case lubes for that much brass, I have a cheap one there. I got tired of buying Hornady One Shot and RCBS spray. Not that they aren't worth the price but, I have to have everything shipped to me. That ends up to be a revolving door of orders and shipping. 

     My best case lube suggestion came from our honored Ed Harris.  VO-5 hairdressing gel contains lanolin and can resize even wildcats. It's slick enough to make a great sizing lube for brass. It just smells some.  You can remove it with rubbing alcohol. Takes very little to do 100 rounds.

Attached Files

Ed Harris posted this 10 May 2010

I have a double-cavity 108-grain truncated cone cup-point which casts .360 diameter in wheelweights. I would be willing to cast and send you a few sample bullets to try. Then if you would want to buy the mould I will ship for $100. Send PM if interested.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 10 May 2010

Do not to forget to triple check the “factory ammo ” for reliability in feeding, etc, before you venture out amongst 'em (g).

I like a version of the modern ” gold dot * etc. ammo for serious carry, but do check for a good reliability... your galpal wouldn't want to PO the thug.

Hey, I like your wife's attitude.  Tell her good fer her from me.

regards, ken campbell, iowa 

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 10 May 2010

Today was pick-up day for my Firestorm .380 and I forgot! That's never happened before, wonder if I'm getting senile? Tomorrow I'll get it and see if my dummy rounds with the Lee .358-125RF are going to chamber. After reading up here on .380s I now know the dummies are likely too fat. I seated them as cast (.360) and the loaded case is about .376 in the middle. We'll see if they fit. I really like the looks of this bullet, bought a 6 cavity mold for it. Like it says, it's a round point with a flat front, a pretty good sized meplat(if I have that word right). My thinking is heavy for caliber would be good for a self defense bullet. I know the argument goes on light/fast vs, heavy/ slow. If it does turn out to be a good reliable load I think it would be a good practice and defense load both. Looking at the Lyman book I should be able to get an easy 850 fps, kind of a mini .45.    EDIT: It was pointed out to me that the Lyman load data I was looking at was shot in a Universal Receiver and may not be suitable for a small handgun. I will proceed with due caution, I'm not stuck on getting 850 fps with this bullet.

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 10 May 2010

Good Evening All, I rooted around in my stored machine shop stuff today and checked out this little barrel. I slugged the barrel from chamber to front with a soft lead slug starting out at .362. Gruuve dia is .3555in. Then I used a pin guage in the chamber and it was .3804in Then I  checked some brass I fired REM UMC and PMC. Mouth miked .009 for .170 into the case then at .220 in it was .0095. both brands. So I think I have a very good barrel from what I have been hereing with sloppy dementions some have found.So I think the Lyman #358242 124gr .356 should work without bulging the case to much at seating depth. So I think it will be a good cast heavy bullet shooter with a light charge for practice. This little LCP shure does feed. Wow does it shure throw the brass. I am not shure what goes farther the brass or the bullet LOL.I shot 4other pocket .380s and they shure dont feed like this one. Very agressive. So far highest marks for this little shooter. I will realy run it thru its paces and give you a report. How it handles all kinds of loads and different shooters. From heavy hold to light. And my wife thanks you for the nice comments about her outlook on this. I am a very lucky guy. To have a wife to stand shoulder to shoulder with each other in the gravest extreem. Lets here from each other what our love ones are useing for there and our protection.How they practice and what they like to use. Or we can start a dedacated post for that or keep it here.

Thank You All, And God Bless,

Rick

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 11 May 2010

Sounds like you have a winner on both counts, the wife and the gun! I'm glad I saw this thread as I'm in the same boat only outfitting my daughter(possibly, if she likes it). Considering the responsibility that goes with that I went all out on the goodies, just placed an order with Midway. Got the Lee carbide 3 die set for the .380, a Lee carbide factory crimp die, and a new one to me, a Lee Bulge Buster die that works like a Lee cast bullet push thru sizer die. It's claimed to work on the .380, .40 S&W, and .45acp. Don't know how that can be, but I bet when I'm done my cases won't have any bulges messing up the feeding! They also had Winchester .380 brass in stock, bought 100. I'd rather have Starline but good luck with that. I'm hoping the Bulge Buster die ($14.99 dealer price) will help with my .45 loads that are a little tight. As far as arming my wife, that scares me a little. No, just kidding, her house gun of choice is an H&R Topper 12 ga, single shot, 18.5". She's been practicing with that thing a long time and can load and operate it with her eyes shut no problem. I have her run some snapcaps dummies thru it occasionally if she hasn't shot it in a while. We use dove and quail loads, lightest we can find. My thinking is 1 shot will do it and she can reload quick enough if she had to. The exposed hammer is the key to the whole thing, she's programmed for that now from years of familiarity. Just load, cock, fire. I keep a Mossberg pump for me, she hates it, “Too complicated". Have to keep the handguns locked up, grandkids. Neither one of us carries concealed so size isn't an issue. She has and is competent with an old Colt Detective Special. Back in my more active shooting days she trained with me on a FATS training system that projects life size images on the screens around you, reacts to what you do. She killed a lot of bad guys. I tried to at least put her on a dbl. barrel hammer gun, no dice, too complicated.

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 11 May 2010

tturner53, That Lee bulge buster die also caught my eye. Let us know how it works. I think Lee was paying attention to what that crafty Ed Harris was doing with there factory crimp die. A little tight chambering from a slightly oversize bullet and bumping them down slightly after they were seated in the case. There next new product  I think will be Ed's repackaged V05 hair dressing and case sizeing cream. I heard rumer that he also had something to do with there alox tumble lube. Very crafty and clever. We must be blessed or something to have him here:dude: I will keep you all posted on this adventure with this little shooter and how my wife gets along with it.

Thank You all,

Rick

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 11 May 2010

Range test, Firestorm .380, a Bersa Thunder by a different name. Only ammo I could get was Russian 91 gr. fmj round nose, $12/50. There was some Winchester, but I aint payin' $30 for 50 fmjs. Just wanted to shoot it, next will be cast bullet loads. It functioned 100%, all pretty good in my opinion, decent trigger, sights, everything. At 15 yds. I shot a 21 shot group, 3"x4” standing, two hands. It was dead on poa/poi. There was a box of Fiochi JHPs, $50 for 50! What the hell? I passed on those too, at least for now. I think this will be a good gun.

Attached Files

rhouser posted this 14 May 2010

I shoot 92 gr meister cast at .355 with 2.2 gr of red dot in my Beretta 70 Series. Very accurate and very pleasant shooting. rc

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 16 May 2010

Interesting thread! Slowly and surely I started working on some cast bullet designs for my pistols. This eventually led me to the 380 Auto. My initial work started with the 9mm Luger. After a never ending wait for an aftermarket non-polygonal barrel for my Glock, I bought a new Jimenez Arms JA-Nine sitting in my local gun shop's case. It was cheaper than the aftermarket barrel so I canceled the order and started working on my 9mm design with this pistol.

I've read a lot of “no-good” about this pistol and it's linage (Bryco/Jennings/Jimenez Arms) but don't mind stepping to my own beat and have since determined that those writing negatively about the pistols have no first hand experience with the pistols. My JA-Nine shot cast bullets so well, it ended up costing me more than that aftermarket barrel as I bought the entire JA lineup of pistols except the rimfire model. This led me to the 380 Auto.

Starting with a chamber cast and barrel slugging, I special ordered a Lee mold specifically to fit the sub-compact JA-380. Like all my designs, I used the services of Tom Myers' Precision Chamber Dimension software to visualize and develop the bullet. The method I use is to not dictate bullet weight at the start but rather to fill the step/leade/freebore/throat and then use center of gravity and lift to determine body length which results in weight. In the case of the 380-Auto, the results were a 125-grain bullet.

JA380Yaquiandpouch.jpg&rdquo">http://www.ranchdogmolds.com/Firearms/JA380/Images/M38JA380Yaquiandpouch.jpg” />

While waiting for the molds to be cut at Lee, Jimenez Arms released a full size 380 Auto (LC-380) based on the JA-Nine frame and I was able to obtain one of the first pistols with the combat black finish.

TL358125RFGroupSize.gif

What is weird is that the sub-compact JA-380 shot smaller groups that the full frame LC-380. In the larger pistols defense is that this load work is the first shooting that has cycled through it. The sub-compact has has close to 1K rounds pass through it.

http://www.ranchdogmolds.com/Firearms/JALC380/Images/LC380MaxLoadsGroupSize.gif

With such a difference in bullet weight over the standard factory ammo bullet of 90-grains, I wondered during development if the FPS would take to great a hit with the heavier bullet. The most used comparison tool from self defense considerations is the “Hatcher” index. Despite the loss of velocity, the heavier bullet made a small gain.

http://www.ranchdogmolds.com/Firearms/JA380/Images/JA380HatcherIndex.jpg” />

There is a price to be paid for shooting a sub compact with a large hand. Here are my “fang” marks after shooting the load work. I maintain a full grip on the stock but that slide still operates!

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 16 May 2010

I'm a huge Lee fan but do not use the Carbide factory crimp die as the final step. The carbide sizing ring in the base of that die can and will alter the cartridge when using over-sized bullets for caliber. Instead, I bought additional bullet seating die barrels and use them specifically as crimp dies.

I also shoot three pistol cartridges in my Marlin rifles: 41 Mag, 44 Mag, and 45 Colt and special ordered Collet type Factory Crimp Dies to avoid the case sizing associated with the carbine FCD.

In that I will buy anything new from Lee, I bought the Bulge Buster but it is not needed if you load exclusively with Lee dies and shellholders as there is die to shellholder contact in the forming stage.

From the Lee Bulge Buster instructions: If you are using Lee carbide reloading dies, you likely will need to process cases during the first reloading only. Lee sizing dies have a special contour grind that usually prevents the objectionable base bulge that commonly occur on ordinary carbide dies.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 16 May 2010

WOW. This is getting good. A whole new thing to play with for me. I'll be watching this thread for updates. RD, about how much was the JA 380?

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 16 May 2010

$143 out the door with taxes. You might find them for a little less. I live out in the sticks and the closest gun shop is very small but I like to support him. I suspect the pistol could be purchased for $130 or so in some places.

As a pistol gets small there are several consideration especially in light of self defense needs. The JA-380 has two such considerations that effect tactical reloads and Type III malfunctions. Additional time, thought and practice will solve these issues.

<>The magazine does not have a positive, spring pressure release. You must operate the release tang and remove the magazine. <>There isn't a slide lock. Again a bit of thought and practice solves the problem. I rack the slide back, and lock my index finger around it. The pistols aren't plinkers. Due to size and weight, a shooting session can be a bit brutal but I believe, based on my experience, they will get the job done!

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 16 May 2010

The above said, the JA-32 is a pleasure to shoot! What a nice pistol!

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 16 May 2010

All these words and I failed to show you the bullet! That's what casters are interested in!

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 21 May 2010

HI All,

I have not forgot about this post I started. I am busy with 4 different bullets, 3 were sent to me to try from a very great guy from here that is the best. When my wife gets to shoot with me we will start a bunch of testing and practice. I am also doing some die mods so correct cast bullets will load properly and will line that out also. Die dementions of the ones I have seem to have no regard for loading cast bullets. The seating die is crushing the loaded case and sizeing the bullet down to .353 when backing the finished round out of the die. My barrel slugged .355. Now I have SAMMI chamber size question for anyone that can find the info? This is a early Ruger LCP, a very early one. I used a pin gauge and the chamber is .3805 factory ammo mikes .371 My carbide die sizes the case to .368 The expander size is .369 before the taper starts. There is no way to stuff a soft low psi .356 “I am the right size to not lead” bullet in that case. Now, I opened the mouth of the seater die from .374 to .376 Did not use the sizer, just flaired a fired case and primed, 2gr WW231, 124gr Lyman 358242 8bhn lubed with thinned LLA. Seated length .990. Loaded case dia. .377 at base of bullet. Double checked my case to chamber dia and had .004 with the barrel out of the pistol. I loaded 3 and went to test, thinking these will never feed. Hand worked the slide, OK smooth. Fired the 3. 1/2 the recoil of the factory stuff. Clean case outside no gas leak, and same as installed, round primer edges. So I loaded up 50 more and shot them for function. Perfect. Shot them into an old stump so no group test. NO lead at all. The throat is very rough and will copper smear after 20 factory rds to the point that I am worried about over psi. I forgot to mention I have fired 300rds of 6 types of factory hollow point and hardball and mixed them up in the same mag and not 1 malfunction. But every thing cast leaded bad untill I loaded unsized. But with 4 different cast bullets still no fail to feed and fire. So I am going to modify this die set for cast only. But I need to know max chamber size first. Now if Ruger replaces the barrel with a smooth throat I hope I don't loose this feed everything pistol. If the chamber is at max dia I will smooth the throat myself as I am a master grade machinist and not worried about doing it. My brother is comeing down for the big weekend and he just got himself one a few days ago. OK sorry his wife one, as she seen it and now it is hers. Was his for all if 40min. But we will compare the 2 side by side. And let you know how it goes and what we come up with for our wifes to practice with. And the die mods. They are new LEE carbide. I think they will work perfect with copper but I have no reason to load them. Speer gold dot or fed self def only for protection for them legal reasons.

Thank You All, and have a nice weekend, Rick

Edit--The cast loads useing all dies per instructions with start to med powder charge gas leaked/slightly blackened the outside of the case. But not with the under min charge with the unsized .004 clearance case. They were perfictly clean. Kinda reminds you of the 45colt complaints, and that the 44wcf shoulder is what seals the case argument. I think this is the .005 extra sloppy chamber with both. I did these same die mods to my 45colt/exactly the same thing. 2 Uberty 1866 Winchesters will not dust the outside the case with cast mouse f@rts or blackpowder. Now sized at the loaded case mouth  to chamber .005 not what the dies did new at .011 with a .002 over groove size 8bhn bullet. They mashed my bullet in the loaded case also. But for some reason did not lead. Sorry for the book but I ended up with the same fix from 2 different way's. And thought this might help someone.

Thank You Again, Rick

Attached Files

mtgrs737 posted this 24 May 2010

The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp seater die does not always work with cast bullets as it may size the oversized bullet down inside the case. You can use it to remove any low bulges in the case before full length resizing the empty case using the Lee bulge buster kit. For my LCP I use the Lee 356-102-1R bullet over 2.7 grs. of Bullseye. I size this bullet .357” and lube with NRA 50/50 lube. I have loaded and shot up to 3.0 grs. of Bullseye with this bullet but felt that the 2.7 gr. load was more pleasant to shoot high quanites for practice. No leading was incurred with this load and it fed with 100% reliablilty. The nicest thing is that the Lee mould is very reasonably priced. My LCP chamber will accept a .377” pin gauge at the chambers forward edge. I do think that the chamber is slightly tappered as the pin gauge will rock a little at the rear of the chamber. I would be happy to send you some samples of this bullet if you would like to try some. PM me to let me know.

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 25 May 2010

Well it is starting to look like my chamber is a little oversize at .3806. That is why I am able to shoot Lyman # 358242 long 124gr with the slightly modified standared seating die used as a sizer. Finished case dia .377.  But it is a very nice practice load useing WW231 at 2gr with that soft 124gr bullet. Anyone else that has a .380 auto, it would be great to hear from you with a chamber size. And how they feed and size. Or LCP's if they have a .377 chamber or smaller and if they will feed anything like my wife's.

Thank you all,

Rick

Attached Files

mtgrs737 posted this 25 May 2010

For a little more reading have a look at:

WWW.elsiepeaforum.com

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 26 May 2010

I don't think your chamber is over size at .3804", please stick with me through this...

I don't have the SAAMI drawings but do have the CIP drawings. Why you don't find the chamber drawings on the web is that both types of drawings specifically state they are copy forbidden. I've found the CIP drawings much more precise in that the use mm which is easily converted to inches (mm * 0.039370079). Let me try to describe the drawing.

In a nutshell, the absolute maximum diameter of the chamber is .3803” located at the web. In my chamber drawing on page 1 of this topic, my dimension at this point is .3840” (web1). The CIP chamber tapers over its case length (.6823") to a diameter of .3760” at the step which defines the headspace. The CIP drawing states a bore of .3583” and groove of .3559".

Finish reamers cut to the above dimensions +.0000” to +.0004” (per Pacific Tool) so your LCP is simply at the large end of the spectrum and I would not worry about it.

I also looked at my Lee dies today. The mouth of my bullet seating die is .3770” in diameter but this dimension is truly insignificant.

I do not use the Carbide Factory Crimp Die with any cast bullet application. The carbide sizing ring will size both the bullet and cartridge. Instead, for semi progressive and progressive reloading I purchase an additional bullet seating die body which I use exclusively for crimping.

My .358” 125-grain bullet cycles great, especially against the factory 90-grain offerings. All these pistols are blowback and I feel the heavy bullets insure a positive feed. I hope this information is some help for you. 

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 26 May 2010

Ranch Dog wrote: How I setup my bullet seating die for cast bullets, is start by cutting a 5/16” bolt to place in the bullet seating stem so that I do not need to screw the die so deep into the press which will keep the die body off the shell plate. Well, I took my bullet seating die apart and didn't use the bolt in this die. I had enough adjustment in the seating stem to make it work as described.

Attached Files

CB posted this 28 May 2010

I have a 90 grain Lyman mold, #356242 that I cast bullets for all of the 380s I have owned. Those were really accurate CBs. I am think about a Ranch Dog molds, but I don't carry 380s much any more. I don't think they have enough stopping power.

Jerry

Attached Files

mtgrs737 posted this 29 May 2010

I agree with jerry, not a good primary weapon due to the less powerful cartridge. But better than not having one at all. The main draw of the little pocket 32's and 380's is that they are so small and light you will hardly notice that you are carrying them. A buddy of mine bought a titanium 357 snubby for a carry gun, but shortly ditched it for a Kel-Tec 380.

Attached Files

CB posted this 31 May 2010

When you are close enough that a 380, 32 ACP or 22LR is really effective, shoot them in the nuts, when they bend over screaming in pain, put the gun in their ear and finish them.

I have a ultra light weight Smith J Frame, it is brutal to shoot, but much more practical for me to carry. So far since I bought it, I have not needed to use it other than on the range.

Jerry

 

 

Attached Files

NITROTRIP posted this 18 June 2010

Hello All, Thank you all for your great input. Micheal, your detail of what you do for yours was great and realy helpfull, thank you. I was out of town for a few weeks, the reason for the delay getting back here. My brother came out to visit and he had a new LCP with him. So we tested them with everything we could come up with. His is from the current run. Mine is one of the first. His chamber was the same size as mine, but the inside finish was great. Mine the throat has very rough tooling marks. So mine will lead and copper smear after about 20rds. His will run 200rds and pick up nothing at all. I am at work so I have to keep this short, but will post later. We shot about 1200rds with both pistols, lead and copper. 7 different bullets and all loading levels. We even mixed up everything we had at the same time in each mag. To try and get those pistols to hang up. Week and strong hand, different shooters. They did not malfunction a single time. They shot everything without a hitch. If it fit in the mag and would hand chamber with the barrel out of the slide, it would feed. I, in 39yrs of shooting never seen an auto do that. You could always find something that would not feed. If you have a LCP that will not feed, the only thing I can think of is your mag lips are bent. We also used Promag's Even leaded, mine still shot 1/2 min of dirtbag accuracy. As good as I am able to hold such a small pistol. Ruger did a great job with this one. Mine is a recall pistol, that dropping thing I quess, so I will send it back and have them look at the barrel inside finish also. And see what happens. Then test again. I will post here again when I get it back. And if anyone has any ?'s about what we did please ask.

Thank you all for your input, Rick

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 24 August 2010

Back to the little .380. I've been busy with other projects and have yet to fire a cast bullet thru my Firestorm .380. I have made up some test rounds to be tried next range trip. The Lee 358-125 RF as cast, .360, lightly tumble lubed with LLA/JPW/mineral spirits mix. I'm using 3 gr. of SR4756 and Federal SPs. A slight flare allows me to seat the bullet with no shaving, then I run them thru a carbide FCD. Cycling the action by hand with the safety on they feed and eject fine. I'll try some without the FCD treatment too to see if they are more accurate. Mainly though I'm interested in reliability and no leading. Just for fun I made up a couple dummies with the Lyman 9mm Devastator HP. Looks like they'll work. They actually weigh less than my Lee 125s, which are really 137 gr. RTL. After I play with these heavy bullets I'll try something more traditional like 90-100 grs. I sure would like to get a copy of RD's TL mold for the .380, looks like just the ticket to me.  EDIT; After reading another old post I'm confused(again). Is the Lee TL358-125RF mold for sale ?

Attached Files

Ranch Dog posted this 24 August 2010

tturner53,

I have a group buy running for the http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_topic.php?id=6289&forum_id=105>TL358-100-RF on this forum, it closes on the end of the month. The 100-grain bullet is suited for any 380 Auto. My TL358-125-RF, the 125-grain bullet, is best suited for full-frame 380 Autos which would include the Firestorm series. I have not offered it yet.

By November 1, I will be back in full swing in the mold business. As soon as I get caught up on my rifle bullet designs, I will be introducing my self defense bullet designs which I have for the 25 ACP, 32 ACP, 380 Auto, and 9mm Luger.

The first three are in desperate need of fairly priced molds. The 9mm Luger interests me as the designs I've tired are that silly .001” under diameter (which makes me crazy) plus I wanted a gas checked design for +P loads.

I'm still up in the air on whether to work with the 40 S&W or not as polygonal barrels dominate this cartridge. Even though I'm a 45 ACP shooter (Glock 36), I've been real slow in considering it as there is already quite a few designs out there.

Bullet Shop will be offering finished bullets in all my designs.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 24 August 2010

Thanks for the info. You're right about the need for these molds. I'll go ahead and order the 100 grainer while I can. I have a 125 now, similar bullet, just not a TL design. I do TL them anyway but haven't shot it yet! This mold was my first 6 cav. from Lee and was intended to be used in several applications, considering it drops at .360 and is a plain base. Lots of possibilities there. Even want to try it in my 1894c .357 for a plinker.

Attached Files

tturner53 posted this 29 August 2010

Shot the Lee 358-125RF today in my Firestorm .380 Loaded as cast, but then run thru a Lee Factory Crimp die. Function was 100%. At 25 yds. they grouped into a 6” bull from a sandbag. My load of SR4756 was too stiff though, flattened the primers. I'll definitely back it off. Also shot a clip of 'no factory crimp' for comparison, no difference. Oh, the bullets are .360 from wwac and LLA tumble lubed. Very light leading, just some dry streaks.

Attached Files

Categories
Search
Popular Tags
This Weeks High Earners
Hot Topics
Close