Homemade Black Powder

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  • Last Post 02 May 2010
bruce posted this 03 March 2010

Is this even an ok topic? Does anyone make their own currently, or does anyone have any first-hand experience from having made it in the past. I believe it is legal in many of the United States to make small batches for ones own shooting use. All of the ingredients are legal to buy in most places. I am reading up on the topic. I have completed my first batch but haven't fired any of it yet.

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bruce posted this 02 May 2010

Mike,

Cool stuff!

Bruce

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corerf posted this 02 May 2010

Here's the field data!!

I have fired my powder in two arms, a 50 cal TC hawken and an 1860 colt army.

Goex on FFg 50 cal, 490 RB, pillow ticking and my homebrew lube: 1240 fps at 60 gr volume.

My FF, unpolished and unglazed, same gun, same load: Shot 1: 1174 Shot 2: 1166 Shot 3: 1211 (patch was cut perfect on each of the following shots, whereas the previous patches were in my opinion very improper, and I settled the powder for 4 seconds then topped off) Shot 4: 1200 Shot 5: 1185 Shot 6: 1228 (this shot the powder was settled slightly in measure and then topped off... this for SURE attributed to the increase in velocity)

Returned to Goex for a second round of velocity verification. Shots were settled in similar fashion to my loads above to make testing “even steven". As you will see, Goex velocities went up like mine did with settling. I'm still significantly low, but acceptably low and with charge increase, I can get same performance (but wait for the target pix and that will not be necessary!)

Shot 1: 1323 Shot 2: 1315

So I have concluded that my density at 1.4-1.6 grams/cc is significantly lower than Goex 2.0-2.4G/cc, they are going to CONTINUE to be approx 100 fps faster than my CURRENT powder, volume for volume.

Stacking factor data:

Goex settles max of 1/8 inch. My powder stacks more poorly and settles 3/16 inch average, maybe a taste more or less at times. In the gun, my ramrod drops the same 3/16 further (deeper) than with Goex of equivalent charge. So I am able to settle by virtue of the ball seating my powder more than Goex.

I will attempt to fix this by a polishing process that will allow tighter natural stacking. I have to create that process so it may be a long time coming!

Fouling: Goex, being “dirty” is REAL CLEAN compared to my powder. I will post pictures of patches between shots. Birch pure seems to be WAY DIRTY by itself but makes good power and speed by the data above. I will alter the wood using known cleaner burning woods and increase density which should improve the burn. Also I short retorted the last batch as an experiment. I will try longer retort times for more complete reduction to see if the new charcoal will burn cleaner. I think it will. There were a lot of volatiles remaining in this last batch.

Accuracy:

My unbiased shooting in Yucca Valley, CA yesterday showed a clear advantage to my powder. No load development was used which is VERY UNFAIR to firearms, powders, etc. But a typical response to queries RE: accuracy loads for a TC 50 hawken with RB, 60 gr is ALWAYS the target shooters ticket!

I shot 50 yards due to 25 mph winds that were not predictable. I had much NON shooting time due to gusts that hung for 4-5 minutes before tapering off. So Goex sucks for accuracy and my powder is exceedingly accurate! Yep..... I am boasting!

Pictures posted below. After sighting shots of approx 10 for chrono testing and zeroing (first time behind this rifle, but rifle is seasoned by prior owner), I shot two groups with same focus and intent.

My nephew has not ever seen a 1/4 inch group, but he's not a shooter. Goex turned in a 2 inch best performance after I did my best patch cutting, standardized best practices for loading, etc. I was as consistent as humanly possible. I could with absolute certainty, predict a bad shot due to patch cut and ball seating. After several shots, I got it worked out completely. My lube was 60 beeswax/40 crisco with 2 tbsp of canola oil (like a four or 6 ounce batch) soaked to absorbtion with heat and wrung out  (pillow ticking approx 15 thou thick)

The score:

Goex 2 inch

Mikes FF 1/4 inch.

Each groups was a 4 shot string. I have one bad patch and new it, it was high and left by 2x2 inch. The other 3 consecutive shots went into .25 inch. Yes, .25 inch, with open factory sights and no wind correction.

Holy Batcrap Robin!

I also tested with less intent, the FFF I made from same batch of powder in the 1860 revolver.

Again chrono data: Goex shot 1/2: 682/663 Mikes FFF shot 1/2: 660.2/660.4

I think that the data speaks for itself. Also I found that the level of fouling with the FFF was less than my FF, by a large margin. Dunno enough about how BP burns in a barrel but Goex and Mikes made a standardized mess in 48 rounds thru gun with NO CLEANING. Gun still fired accurately, cylinder still rotated properly, hammer fell cleanly, but my hand was a mess from lube, BP, yuck!

Accuracy results

Procedure: two hand hold, 35 feet, 1/2 diameter target dot, 20 grains volume Goex or Mikes FFF, oxyoke felt wad with dry lube, 454 RB, nice shaving each load, #11 CCI cap, TC bore butter topper half topped off.

Goex 1.5 inch for 5 shots and could have been tighter, as tight as 1 inch but there were vertical stings present that did NOT get attributed to anything but powder performance.

Mikes FFF, two windblown groups ( I shot with wind without any caution). 4 shots total, first two printed in .25 inch, second two printed 1.2 inch left (NO WIND CONDITION), .25 inch group, both groups show minor vertical stack with no windage error.

I can't do better than that with the gun. And I was NOT working hard to shoot that way. The Pietta simply shot well when aimed with either powder.

So I will post pics later tonight of patches, targets and powder.

I will be ordering lab screens to enhance my fractioning of the FFF to include finer grains than I can currently sort, to make more equivalent to Goex, the composition of largest to smallest grains. Or I may fraction for more consistency than Goex with a higher reject rate if when done, it enhances velocity error reduction.

But how much more consistent can my powder be. Error for two shots was only 2 tenths of an FPS???????

I need to polish the FFF to get the stacking factor equal to Goex so that my velocity comes up to Goex speeds. I am a taste low but not by much.

Next trip at the end of May, I will try FFF in the rifle for a few shots since FF vs. FFF may give more velocity in 50 cal with a better stack factor. I must also cast some RB and shoot homebrew CB's with it to make it RIGHT/RIGHT.

Also I will need to return to the wild the 2.5 foot Desert Rosey Boa that we caught on a walk to the target. I have had good success with finding temporary pets on shoots, two tarantulas in September last year (returned a month later) and now the Boa. Very pretty snake and as docile as an earthworm! My 8 year old is in hog heaven holding it.

Reverend: It will cost a few bucks to roll commercial powder once/If I get the blend improved. My electrical contracting company has higher fees in overhead here in California than Goex pays in Louisiana and I can guarantee that. So ANY redcution in overhead from what I currently pay for ANY business is a welcomed sight.

Goex target ( 2 of 3 shots, the thrid is lost  on the paper somewhere within 5 inches of this group.... what a mess of a group, although goex did group better at times during sighting, just this was a “GROUP” for grouping, not chrono tests

Mikes FFF

My powder (photo is not going to resolve well due to compression) FF on left, FFF on right

Family employees make for a low overhead, and I have family that would gladly leave the LA ratrace to earn a reduced income slower life on an Idaho farm making a product. We shall see... if I can't get it to clean up and can't get the mass/cc up to snuff, then business ends right then and there.

But that's not to say that I won't kick butt all over paper targets and game with my stuff. I am ok with ending at personal consumption, but I am an entrepreneur by DNA and I can't help but find a financial benefit in the prospect.

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Reverend Recoil posted this 02 May 2010

I am sure there is a market for every superior product including black powder. You will have to do some extensive marketing research to determine what the market will bear for your product. Your overhead may cost as much or more than production costs, especialy with hired employees. Have you priced liabilty and fire insurance? Insurance underwrighters set the standards for fire protection in all industries.

I wonder who underwrights PB's offshore rigs. Whoever they are, they will be paying out some big bucks. Good luck.

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corerf posted this 23 April 2010

Reverend, I am well and have finished the race very well. I have replicated Goex, except for fouling testing which should be done as soon as I can shoot.

Burn rate testing: Average .1 seconds faster over Goex, granule for granule. On par with SWISS performance at FF and FFF grades, superior to Elephant on ANY DAY.

Tested FFF and FF cornings of my powder against Goex. Goex runs .7 sec at 2 foot, mine at .6 secs.

Energy output is similar.

Charge density: Goex (14.9-15.3g/cc) Mine- (11.8-12.4g/cc)

I believe due to superior milling over Goex factory, I will produce higher velocities with equivalent volumetric charges even though the mass will be less using my powder.

So less powder and more velocity, higher efficiency....... that is the point of doing this.

My granulation method is far more consistent than Goex, my granules are sized more uniformly while unpolished. I will move to polishing (and glazing) as soon as I prove a few other points or performance.

Surprisingly, most BP makers will agree that it is easy to extract more efficiency from homebrew than Goex or Swiss could ever produce, gram for gram. But it's not about speed. I have to keep the speed WAY low through production process so that I don't exceed the “standard” that the industry has designed all arms to work around. I have a limited window to work inside but yet increase performance.

So my chrono will dictate the performance I have achieved. But my testing so far says I am going to kick Goex butt for both fouling and energy.

Reverend: I have just last night, completed a new mill with a dedicated motor, running an 8 inch diameter barrel x 12 inch long. It will put out, if it can hold the full load without overheating the motor, 1.5 lbs charge with 8 lbs media, finished product in 3 hours or less, less by force... due to my linear burn rate limitations for sporting use powder. Essentially if my FF burns like FFFF, then bad thing will happen. So I have to control the milling process very critically.

The corning after pressing is the hardest, most time consuming process. I have designed (not built) a single stroke cam operated crusher, non-sparking, that will minimize the loss of useable product from re-powdering during corning. Under normal corning, I loose 50% to dust and have yet to recompose a puck with the secondary dust for testing. The waste if not usable and consistent after the second pressing, will kill the process. Either the secondary pressing will burn same rate or it will slow down, slowing is not acceptable. So something has to happen to improve the yield during the corning process. The crusher is a NO impact device that will smoothly break a puck, repeatedly while minimizing the granules that can be reduced to fines (unusable fines). Also I can't sieve and fraction FFFF yet so anything below FFF and a large, consistent FFF (Unlike Goex which is all over the place) goes to scrap.

Goex makes blasting powder, etc so any non-sporting waste dust can be reconstituted to other forms and used 100%. I can't do that. I can't use finer than FFFF and thats pretty small, but NOT DUST. And How much FFFF can one use in a year?? So there has to be a fix for the loss during crushing.

Yes I am alive, and very happy with what I have created. I expect excellence from the product>

For giggles, if you shot competitively and could buy higher performance BP than SWISS (the best made) at $2 per can less, direct from mfgr, from a USA mfgr, would you do it??

Or would you just stick with nasty Goex, the standard crud that has been unchanged for 150 years??

You could buy American, from a boutique mfgr, cheaper, direct, with the confidence that each can from each lot would be consistent, more consistent than Goex, as consistent as Swiss, but $2 cheaper and direct CUTTING the powder distributors out of the picture?? A company who ONLY MADE SPORTING GRADE BP for the Shooting Sports??

Would you buy it?? I open the question to everyone. To compete you must use commercial powder available to ALL shooters so this boutique company would be a sanctioned provider.

Think about it!

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Reverend Recoil posted this 23 April 2010

Corerf, are you still alive? I hope so.

Search the web for rock tumbler plans. There are several that tumble rocks using rotating truck tires.

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corerf posted this 15 April 2010

WOW. Tonight was a good test.

0.78 seconds for 2.5 feet with dust. Some kind of unknown soft wood (cedar) and 18 hours mill time with more rpm (more hammer effect). Corned it tonight, will try a burn on Saturday morn when fully dried. Hopefully it will go FASTER. Last mill dust prior to corn was over 2 seconds. Now after poor milling session (low rpm and 5 hours) and corned it is at 1.6 seconds. Thats a .4 sec improvement. If the ratio holds up, 20% speed increase after corning should net me .625 sec for full burn on this newest batch. Thats as fast or FASTER than Goex. Not sure where I stand with fouling though. When it's under pressure it's fouling artifacts will be different than when in free air.

On that note went back to birch for 100 gms load for 18-24 hour mill time at higher rpm level. This should rule out wood. It will be done at 8 PM PST tomorrow and I can speed test the dust to compare to tonights result with a “lesser” wood.

I think I might get to shoot some next Wednesday and chrono against Goex. Since this is the cast bullet forum, that was the whole point. To cast Pure lead ball and get it done all homebrew in Hawkens. My next report will only come if I get to shoot the stuff, then compare patched ball with Goex against my homebrew.

I can't just go to the range here and go shoot cast. It's 2 hours in any direction to pull the trigger ONCE>. I have already done all the casting and loading that I can without a range trip so I am in a rut. The only activity I have firearm related is BP testing. And that is it!

Sucks to live in So Cal. Soon..... that may change.

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corerf posted this 14 April 2010

I have made significant speed progress. Yes Reverend, cottonwood is in the same family as willow and it's usually regarded as top dog in charcoal.

Also Reverend, just about every pyro in the US can make better cleaner, more efficient powder than Goex (formerly DuPont). Theres a 15 yr old kid doing it on youtube and he is very good with his compostion. It's just me thats struggling, but its how one learns the WAY. If it was so easy anyone could do it perfect, then I would have no challenge and thats not stimulating! Thats my goal, do it better than Goex and Swiss BOTH!

I have been using birch, but my mill needed some changes. So I increased the barrel speed to cause more hammer and less roll effect. I have increased milling times to 12 hours or more. It has gotten my mill dust to 1.6 ft/s burn. That not fast enough but I found that my test trough was charged will too little powder to propagate. I tested a batch that has had 5 days drying time, unpressed but damp corned. I 2.75ft/s. Thats fastest I have made yet. The target is about 3.5ft/s in final pressed and corned. But the Mill is what I believe is holding me up. The birch is hard and harder than willow, etc. So I got ticked off and charred some really old white pine. Thats what gave 1.5ft/s in mill dust. Mill dust is about 60% slower than the corned product. So my hopes are that 1.5 s will turn into .75 or faster when it's dried with a goodload in the trough.

I am running tonight a batch of unknown soft wood. White cedar or some kinda stuff. It charred nice, low tar content. I will mill it until noon tomorrow and test tomorrow night for burn rate out of the mill.

Lastly I need to build a GOOD mill. Mine is so inefficient that I could cry. I need a 6 inch barrel that is narrow at about 110 rpm with an 1/8 hp to turn it. Put 10lbs media in it and a 1/2 lb charge and in three hours I should have my cake and be eating it. But until then, I will have to WAIT for the slow, crappy mill to run.

An ultrasonic test lab friend gave me a nice test billet of alum. for turning down as a compression piston (or two or three!) I need to go to the scrap yard to find a 2 inch alum tube with 1/4 inch walls. My press should make about 3Gms/cc density every stroke and the piston wont get stuck to to huge tolerances.

So it goes. Work is picking up for a few days so my stress level over economics may let up and allow me to spend a few bucks on the project. But so far, if it's not free, I can't do it right now.

Friggen Obamafornia. (sorry not appropriate for the thread, disregard)

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Reverend Recoil posted this 13 April 2010

I remember reading in the American Rifleman that the Confederates built a powder mill in Alabama that made better black powder than DuPont. This powder produced less smoke and fouling. Their charcoal was made from cottonwood. After the war, DuPont used their political connections and had the mill destroyed. If you want cottonwood charcoal you will have to make your own. Good luck and be careful. As carefull and knowledgeable as the DuPonts and Nobels were they each lost several family members and numerous employees. Beware of static electrical charges especially on days of low humidity.

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corerf posted this 06 April 2010

Even greater success tonight with compression dies. I got 2.5grams/cc density with my hydraulic press. I was able on the first puck to get 9.9 grams (152 grains) into a 2.055 diameter x .275 tall puck.

My press is some scrap 5/8 all thread, some nuts and washers, and a scrap 4x6 cut in half to make two 2 foot long beams. The beams are standing at the ends of the all thread giving me a 24 inch opeing between a footer and header. Then I borrowed my dads 20 ton junker bottle jack, two small 1/2 inch steel plates for load spreaders to keep pistons from breaking. Extend the jack between the header and footer, compress, dwell for 2 minutes while I leave the area. Release and fight like hell to get the puck out!

Second compression, pushed maybe a bit more with a larger load (31 grams) and it finished at about the same height (but had problems with the pistons sticking so bad the puck broke getting it out). I believe the second puck would have been at 3.1 grams per cc. Thats 48 grains per cc. Thats a walker 47 max load in a lee 1cc dipper!!

Anyway, once I have dried, corned and sieved it to FFFg granulation, I shall do a weight check vs volume to see where I land compared to Goex (15.4 grains per cc) I will NOT have polished the granules so the stack within a volumetric measure may be not as compact as Goex but my density may be higher so actual load weight may balance out.

I will also put it head to head on a 12 inch burn run with a video camera recording burns of Goex 3F and my 3F. I'll use the time code as a clock reference. I thought of building a flip-flop driver with NC trigger to drive a stopwatch but thats too much wasted time. The video camera will be sufficient to get me data.

I need to loosen the piston up and provide a smoother cylinder and piston. The BP goes hydraulic in teh cylinder and a bit of moisture oozes out of the gaps. Then the BP dries making a wedge sticking the pistons in the cylinders.

Either I will have to make better pistons and cylinders ot I will have to make a sleeve that is tough but it's ID is slightly or significantly larger than the piston OD. The I can stack the finished assembly on top of the new sleeve, and push the whole tamale thru and the puck will drop into the new large ID sleeve.

I'll post pix of pucks and finished product once I have finished testing. It's worth a look.

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corerf posted this 04 April 2010

Goldangit, I hit the jackpot. I adjusted my previous composition to the std 75/15/10, using a low temp charcoal from the birch I used previous. The color of charocal is more choclate brown than pitch black due to less decomp during retort. I understood that more volatiles are present and this generates more powerful BP. So what the heck, nothing like adding LAYERS of changes so that theres no way of knowing what change did what....

Anyway, I have ball milled under ground for four hours tonight. Each component was milled for 5 hours with steel media to reduce. Then the green meal was added to a fresh ball mill with 40 brass .5 inch balls. No moisture added. So I found that in my barrel, 40 balls wasn't enough to be proper. So I broke down and added 95 more .495 diameter speer lead balls. I figured that since the first 40 brass balls cost $33, I need to wait for more $$ to get more brass media. (I mentioned previous I think how I DONT want lead trace in teh powder smoke. So.... I tested some of the 3 hour old mill dust.

Shoot, it's as fast as Goex all day long. It has NOT HAD WATER added yet, which will build speed and clean a bit more than now. The powder burns as clean as Goex so far (in free air). Is plenty sensitive (more sensitive than previous batches and faster to boot).

So tomorrow night I will sieve it tomorrow damp and corn it. I may just try to hold off with moisture until I can get the hydraulic press reassembled to compress to 1.5g/cc or better. My pistons are built with compression die, just need to build the hydraulic frame. I tried the Harbor freight affordable presses but they have limited openings and so my cylinder is too tall to work correctly. I don't have free $$ to invest in a larger unit so I have to make a frame with 4x6 timber and 5/8 threaded rod with 2 ton hydraulic jack.

I made huge progress. The other testers on many sites have stated the difference between CIA, m&P and BALL MILLED powders is like black and white. It sure is. Success was so easy. I can guarantee at least equal velocities with this powder with equal or less fouling than Goex at this point. I believe that linear speed testing will show after high compression, corning and polishing in mill barrel, it will run faster that Goex, similar fouling or better with denser charges and more energy. I dont' think Goex is necessarily the “mark” to strive for. Lots of folks have indicated tremendous performance improvements over factory and thats what I aim to achieve.

I am very happy tonight!

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JetMech posted this 17 March 2010

My apologies, Charlie. It's my understanding that Pyrodex was developed as an alternative to BP that wasn't explosive, but I guess it still has the residual salts that cause corrosion.

As a sidebar, last year, Goex was trying to get BP reclassified from a class 1.3 explosive to a different catagory to reduce shipping costs. They were unsuccessful.

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corerf posted this 16 March 2010

Bill, I think Charlie was implying that unlike BP, Pyrodex had the KClO4 in it which was hydroscopic. I concur that BP has long legs and will keep for a long time without atmospheric water intrusion.

Sodium “anysalt", you fill in the appropriate suffix, sucks up water like a sponge! Good oxidizer though.

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JetMech posted this 16 March 2010

codarnall wrote:  BP which is really nasty hydroscopic stuff Actually, the only black powder that is hygroscopic is blasting powder made with sodium nitrate. BP made for propellants use potassium nitrate, can be stored for years, if not decades and works just fine. The fouling left in hygroscopic and corrosive so should be removed as soon as practical but is very easy to remove with hot water.

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corerf posted this 16 March 2010

I dunno but perchlorate content would NOT lead to less ignition sensitivity which Pyrodex has. It would provide the reverse effect.

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codarnall posted this 16 March 2010

My understanding is that Pyrodex mentioned so often contains potassium perchlorate unlike BP which is really nasty hydroscopic stuff and I have always stayed away from it for that reason. Doesn't smell right either. Charlie

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corerf posted this 14 March 2010

Testing data for March 14, 2010

Manufactured 1/3 lb birch based BP using the precipitation method. Used NON-usp or tech grade KNO3, USP grade Sulfur, home made charcoal from well dried birch in retort.

All components ball milled separately, I can't safely ball mill combined here in the city and provide enough buffer for the safety of everyone.

Sieved thru 4 layers (non measured varying mesh (to be accurized with 20/40/100 mesh next week).

Attempted to build compression die for powder, tested with a 6 ton press, non-combustible charcoal dampened. Unfortunately the press broke the piston at 4 ton and I had not added sufficiently incorporated water/alcohol to cause fusion of powder. So I broke the piston and was left several times with dust. I will revisit the piston after fabricating another die and will use fresh, complete precipitation method product for die testing. Die volume reduced to 1.5 oz for reduction of “size” of blast hazard during ram stroke.

Anyway, I corned the fresh product and sun dried today. Used the multiple sieves to fraction.

Weighed Pyrodex P and RS as a standard in a 1cc Lee dipper both in grams and grains. Metered and weighed three fractions, I will call coarse, med and fine in 1cc and also on scale.

Results of finished product:

Pyrodex P= .77 grams= 11.88 grains (measure error = 2%) Pyrodex RS= .67 grams= 10.34 grains (measure error 16%)

Fine BP = .49 grams= 7.56 grains a mix of end dust and sieved passage

Med BP = .63 grams= 9.72 grains critical sorted

Coarse BP = .60 grams= 9.26 grains critical sorted

Pyrodex used as reference of dipper accuracy and granulation accuracy.

Visual speed test:

Pyrodex P as base:

RS, noticeably slower.

Pyrodex VERY CLEAN.

Fine (includes dust and fines as well as corned grains, smaller than Pyrodex P by a small margin with dust and fines)----as fast as Pyro P but dirty.

Med- As fast as Pyrodex RS, but dirty

Coarse- Noticeably slower than Pyrodex RS, and very dirty.

All burns done on cold block with smokeless path as fuse. Only 1cc increments tested.

Granulation differences with BP and Pyrodex:

Pyro P to Fine BP: pyro P has highly varied granules, BP (if dust is removed by fractioning in the future) same granule variable and size.

Pyro P to Med BP: BP granules MORE CONSISTENT in size with much less variable, but 30% larger or roughly equal to the dominant granule found in Pyro RS.

Pyro RS to Med BP: Pyro RS far more varied in granule size, BP was equal to the large dominant Pyro RS granule.

Pyro RS to Corase BP: BP 50-60% larger granule, less varied than Pyro RS in granule size.

Pyrodex vs BP texture and granule strength:

Pyrodex WILL NOT crush in your fingers when touched. Corned and UNCOMPRESSED BP will under several grams of force, break down easily to finer grains. BP definitely stronger once fully dried and will NOT break down easily under rolling force, granule collisions in sieve or in container.

Thats it for today. I am pooped. The pyro guys that are in the guild, all use ball mills out from their homes on larger parcels of property. If one did pop, neighbors would not care. But in the city, once must not make loud noises inadvertently or the project SHALL come to a screeching, permanent halt.

For the next volley of testing, I will be using traditional mortar and pestle to blend components in small quantity, wetting with 50/50 water/alcohol and corning with same methods used above.

Additionally, this precipitation batch should be compressed to 1.7gms/cc density with a new die (I have enough coarse to create at least one fraction of dense material from this batch) .

All varied outputs will be preserved in a few CC quantity for chronograph testing and for checking fouling output. (that is shooting with the stuff!!)

I will also procure some Goex FF and FFF powder and compare similarly as above.

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bruce posted this 07 March 2010

Things I have recently read on charcoal:

Willow is #1, fireworks boys also like balsa, which is expensive and very light. Some say Goex is made of maple, which some have rated as 80% as good as willow.

I have also read that radiata pine (yellow pine grown in South America) is pretty good, and of course cheap. Interior door jambs made of radiata pine are perhaps the most common in homes built over the past fifteen years (this is an observation I have made from my day job) so the world should never be totally out of the stuff.

As the link Corerf added points out, just how long and how hot the wood is heated has a lot to do with how good the charcoal will turn out.

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codarnall posted this 07 March 2010

I absolutely concur. Done properly, wet and dried out and then ground is dangerous, done with with one of Obama's boys or a robot may be fine.

Charlie

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corerf posted this 06 March 2010

bruce, here is a link with the performance curves of various wood types. Willow is the preferred, used by Goex and Swiss. But the authors very invasive study shows that even with Willow, Goex plain sucks for energy yield compared to other woods but that is due to manufacturing and NOT the wood. So as I have read in other places, neither hard or soft woods have a general performance character. Both soft and hard are both valued (pending type of wood) for BP both pyro propellant and as gunpowder.

Yep, birch is GOOD. I am getting ready to stoke a fire int eh fireplace for making charcoal. My cookie tin is ready! Oh yeah, birch is friggen heavy and dense. It should have good yield compared to much less dense woods per lb.

Link

http://www.musketeer.ch/blackpowder/charcoal.html

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bruce posted this 06 March 2010

Corerf - Is birch a desirable charcoal for BP?

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