R. Dupraz
posted this
20 February 2008
Dan:
In answer to your questions reference bedding the tang. I assume the bolt you talk about is the tang bolt?
The tang not only secures the entire barrel assembly at the rear but also helps to prevent torqing when the gun is fired. So, I make sure that the bottom of the tang has full contact with it's mortise and bedded with no stress, either side-ways or up and down. I'll then drill the tang bolt hole a little oversize so that even though it will be tightened down, there will be no sideways pressure on it and it can move a mite. And wood does move. The only place that I want to take the recoil is behind the breach plug itself.
Any more, I inlet the barrel with the breach plug attached. When there is a hooked plug, I'll solder it together. Then the whole thing is inletted as a unit. I've done it with the plug and barrel separated but for me, it's easier to get everything straight and level in the wood when they are together. And yes, the barrel loops or tenons are attached.
Which brings up another point. The barrel loops or tenons also need a little clearance, front and back so that if the wood moves, they won't bind. This can also open up the groups. As will the barrel keys or pins when they bind against the inside of the tenons.
I am talking from the aspect of building from a blank, however, all these things can be checked and fixed on an existing gun as well. And if bedding with Accra-Glass or some such, tape on the bottom flat works fine to gain some relief or where ever you want it.
As you probably have already surmised, I try to have the barrel and tang set securely in the stock with no undue stress anywhere. And the barrel is supported in kind of a V-block system within the stock by virtue of the two bottom oblique flats.
RD