RCBS MOLD SUGGESTIONS

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  • Last Post 18 May 2008
CB posted this 02 December 2007

RCBS was kind enough to send me two molds for testing.

I think it would be a good thing if we offered RCBS some suggestions about their molds. Some of these suggestions might apply to other mold manufacturers.

Here's where I am:

The sprue plate screw should be phillips rather than a hex head bolt. Burns my fingers.

The sprue plate screw lock screw should be on the SIDE of the mold, it is difficult to work with an allen wrench on the FRONT of the block. Burns my fingers.

The sprue plate screw lock screw should be ?brass?, and should have a phillips head. Let's get rid of the allen heads and hex heads and standardize on phillips, which is mo better.

The sprue plate screw should have an unthreaded bottom so that the lock screw hits the unthreaded part and doesn't hit and bugger up the threads.

Since we've established that all 2 or more cavity molds produce different-however slight-bullets, and since we may want to cast from just one cavity of DC molds, RCBS should sell sprue plates with one hole. Then there would be a two holer, a front holer and a back holer. I'd buy one each of the front and back holers in a flash.

Looking for more ideas, and I think we ought to send a consolidated list to Ken withy a lot of signatures.

joe b.

 

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RicinYakima posted this 02 December 2007

I hate phillips headed screws! Who ever invented them should burn more than their fingers! I vote for a hex drive cap screw for the plate, smooth sided.

Abandon the spring under the plate screw, add an angled piece that slides over the top of the plate to keep it flat on the mould top, ala early H&G's and Cramer's and LBT's (?).

I will second the smooth sided lock screw.

Make a smaller sized block for bullets that have less mass. At least 80% of their double cavity blocks could be much small and lighter. Us old guys with bad arms and hands don't like heavy stuff.

Keep the hardened steel pins that go through the handles, as that is the best part of their moulds.

Ric

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fa38 posted this 02 December 2007

Phillips head screws on a mould./images/emoticons/barf.gif   An idea whose time should never come.

I would like to see plain base designs in .22 through .30 cal.

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CB posted this 02 December 2007

I suggest leaving them the way they are. Mine work fine. I don't wanna end up paying $98 for a new and improved RCBS mould with funky screw heads.:caution:

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CB posted this 03 December 2007

RicinYakima wrote: I hate phillips headed screws! Who ever invented them should burn more than their fingers! I vote for a hex drive cap screw for the plate, smooth sided.

Abandon the spring under the plate screw, add an angled piece that slides over the top of the plate to keep it flat on the mould top, ala early H&G's and Cramer's and LBT's (?).

I will second the smooth sided lock screw.

Make a smaller sized block for bullets that have less mass. At least 80% of their double cavity blocks could be much small and lighter. Us old guys with bad arms and hands don't like heavy stuff.

Keep the hardened steel pins that go through the handles, as that is the best part of their moulds.

Ric

I don't understand why you don't like phillips head screws. Does Pillips know about this? I can get a screw driver in a phillips slot and it stays there no matter how I shake. An allen screw works too, but where is that wrench?? Although I send an allen wrench with my front sights. Please explain what's wrong?  

I spent a while with an RCBS mold last night, and it looks like 3/8” could be lopped off the top without changing much of anything. Width change would affect the handles, and how they work, I think.

The mold is 1 3/4” long, with a 50 caliber bullet there's room for 1/4” at each end and between cavities.

These molds are just way bigger than they need to be.

????????

joe b.

 

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R. Dupraz posted this 03 December 2007

Me and my RCBS moulds get along just fine, don't need to screw something up that ain't broke. Fact is, thinking bout getting a couple more.

RD

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4060may posted this 03 December 2007

Joe Which Philips head Standard do you prefer, American, European or Japananese ?

Oh yes they are.

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CB posted this 03 December 2007

Ah.. You forgot Reed and Prince!

A phillips screw in a mould is a bad idea. If you get a little lead in it (god knows that should never happen to a bullet mould) you have a difficult time trying to get a screwdriver into it. Then there are the screw drivers which are almost as cantankerous as the screws. Being that most people will not pay $8.00 for a good screwdriver or $1.00 for a good phillips screw I think the hex head is the way to go.

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sundog posted this 03 December 2007

I'm with RD. IT AIN'T BROKE. And, don't go trying to fix it!

Phillips head screws are for dry wall and wood decks.

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Lloyd Smale posted this 10 December 2007

i agree with the relocating of the lock down screw but sure dont want it phillips or brass. What id really like to see rcbs do is come out with a 4 cavity mold!! They have some great bullet designs but 2 cavity molds are just so slow!!!

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linoww posted this 10 December 2007

Lloyd Smale wrote: i agree with the relocating of the lock down screw but sure dont want it phillips or brass. What id really like to see rcbs do is come out with a 4 cavity mold!! They have some great bullet designs but 2 cavity molds are just so slow!!!

I second the 4 cavity suggestion.I wouldnt even have a problem if the 4 cavs were a special order only option if it included all suitable rifle calibers as well.

 

 

 

Geo.

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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arnie posted this 07 March 2008

I wish they wouldnt put such deep vent lines in there moulds.I get allot of wiskering when casting large 40 and 45 caliber rifle bullets .Arnie

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6pt-sika posted this 08 March 2008

Personally unless they come out with some new designs I have probably purchased my last RCBS mould . Not there is anyhting wrong with them as I like them just fine .

But I seem to have just about all the moulds they make that fit my normal range of needs for lever guns . And I already have both of their moulds for my 50-90 Sharps , so what else is there :cool:

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hunterspistol posted this 18 May 2008

:coffee   I'll dive on this one, you have a very good point about the locking screw not hitting threads.  I can understand going out to fix the way screws loosen when a mould gets hot. I've had to stop and tighten myself-but they ALL do that!

 

Question: why are RCBS sprue cutter holes smaller than Lyman's, makes it harder to pour and get perfect bases? That is the only thing I've seen that I'd personally change. New enough at this that I never really thought about improving the moulds.

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