Additions, comments, opinions?
Additions, comments, opinions?
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What is your most accurate and consistent cast bullet rifle. How small are the groups it shoots? What are the load details and numbers of groups fired with given load?
"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!
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What is your most accurate and consistent cast bullet rifle. How small are the groups it shoots? What are the load details and numbers of groups fired with given load?
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"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!
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For epoxy, depending on how long I think I will be leaving the base on the rifle, I use ( Sig Hobby Shop model airplane epoxy , it's kind of a clear yellowish ), or Devcon aluminum filled, which looks ok on stainless, or JB Weld.
All of those epoxies are almost fool proof, if you get even close in the mixture ratio, they will set up ok. DO ALLOW FOR FULL CURE, not just setup. full cure is usually 2 days or so. Do NOT use 5 minute epoxies, they are junk.
If you really really like where the base is located, you can always use the base as a jig and put 1 or 2 or..... mount screws in the base holes so you can just screw it on and off after this time.
When you take off the scope, usually a sharp rap with a heavy chunk of wood or aluminum or brass will snap the grip of the epoxy .... there might be some epoxy stuck to the barrel, this can be removed with a piece of aluminum or brass, without marring the barrel ... use the bar like a dull knife, which I guess it is ...
I have used this ” Molly ” approach (g) to mounting scopes on SS Winchesters, early .22s without obvious mounting surfaces, various pistolas, and shotguns....
This would give you a way to shoot some of the old ones without committing a SACRILEDGE... of drilling holes in them.
just some trivia ken campbell, deltawerkes
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George;
If you've shot in ASSRA matches then you will understand that the number of re-entries is unlimited in many matches. Let's talk about group matches. It is pretty easy to shoot a group under an inch in a couple or three hours. Let's say you've shot a 3/4” group by 1PM on Saturday. Buy some more targets, and commence shooting. As soon as you've screwed up the first target, go to the second, you don't have to shoot all five. Then when you've screwed up the second, start on the third. You can put four targets up and turn them to scrap paper in 8 shots. Then buy some more. Then buy some Sunday.
If you work at it, eventually you'll get a smaller and smaller group, or higher and higher score. No need to shoot all the shots, see the target get screwed up and stop. ASSRA re-entry matches are won by good shooters shooting a lot of targets. Shoot a 248 by 10AM on Saturday at 200 yards, ans spend dozens of bucks looking for a 249.
Alternatively, we have the guys that set out lots of wind flags, and take ALL DAY to shoot ten record shots. Then do it Sunday.
I never said that I had a gun that would consistently shoot half inch groups, and I never said that this gun was amazingly accurate. It's a good rifle.
If you've never seen competition groups in the .2s, you never looked.
If you've never seen 250s shot in competition at 100 yards, you haven't looked. They're getting downright common.
If you've never seen 200 yard groups of 1.2” or so, you haven't looked. It is getting common for ASSRA matches to have several 200 yard 250s, sometimes more than 1 200 yard 250 by one competitor in a match. I was at the match when Jerry Ventura shot the first 200 yard 250 in ASSRA competition, watched him do it, late 80s?. Now they're not unusual.
When I lived in MA we went to WNYSS 1-2 times a year, to L.I., at Old Colony, anywhere in reason for a match. Here in FL there's 5-8 guys 350 miles away running ASSRA style matches, not re-entry but max 2 targets per match. I don't shoot offhand. I can enter every score and group match, shoot the 2 targets, BS for a while and be done at 3PM on Sat. Not much shooting for 700 miles of driving.
Read what I wrote, George. Don't get confused, it's pretty simple. Remember, you asked.
joe b.
Attached Files
For epoxy, depending on how long I think I will be leaving the base on the rifle, I use ( Sig Hobby Shop model airplane epoxy , it's kind of a clear yellowish ), or Devcon aluminum filled, which looks ok on stainless, or JB Weld.
All of those epoxies are almost fool proof, if you get even close in the mixture ratio, they will set up ok. DO ALLOW FOR FULL CURE, not just setup. full cure is usually 2 days or so. Do NOT use 5 minute epoxies, they are junk.
If you really really like where the base is located, you can always use the base as a jig and put 1 or 2 or..... mount screws in the base holes so you can just screw it on and off after this time.
When you take off the scope, usually a sharp rap with a heavy chunk of wood or aluminum or brass will snap the grip of the epoxy .... there might be some epoxy stuck to the barrel, this can be removed with a piece of aluminum or brass, without marring the barrel ... use the bar like a dull knife, which I guess it is ...
I have used this ” Molly ” approach (g) to mounting scopes on SS Winchesters, early .22s without obvious mounting surfaces, various pistolas, and shotguns....
This would give you a way to shoot some of the old ones without committing a SACRILEDGE... of drilling holes in them.
just some trivia ken campbell, deltawerkes
Ken;
If the barrel had a sight slot I'd be fine, but it doesn't. I know about the glue-ons, I just can't stand to drop a big $$$ scope on the ground when the epoxy fails. The epoxy failed an a 12/15 Martini 22RF at Alabama one year, and put us out of the RF competition.
The barrel is part octagon, and has a screw hole for the forend, on the bottom of the barrel. One screw should be all that's needed, I'm only a designer and a machine shop away from a mount screwed in the bottom and on a flat on top.
Thanks;
joe b.
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I think Joe should shoot in our matches too.
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