I'm Reforming brass for 44 Shot (3") from 9.3x74R. (the 44 Shot predates the .410, as the .410 came about around 1911.
Chamber cast indicates a 3" chamber, into which the 9.3x74R case fits well.
I'm using the 444 resigning die to resize (when I get to that stage).
.410 shot cups are good, but shorter than what I would like.
Picture shows brass after annealing. (I didn't have enough powder to fully expand the brass the first time around.
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Load a .44-40 card wad over the powder and under the shot cup. This is necessary to avoid powder leaking past the shot cup causing bloopers.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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Load a .44-40 card wad over the powder and under the shot cup. This is necessary to avoid powder leaking past the shot cup causing bloopers.
THANKS, Ed! I had observed the clearance between the case and the shot cup. I questioned whether or not the thickening of the brass towards the base would be enough. That would depend on the ID at the top of the powder column - a variable depending on the volume of the powder chosen.
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In my military M35 aluminum .410 cases I use a .45-70 over powder card and a 1 cm Cheddite waxed felt cusion wad, because the case walls are to thin to work with a conventional plastic shot cup. Same issue with Magtech all-brass.
In reformed RWS 9.3x74R or PPU .303 British cases a .44-40 over powder card works well under the Federal. .410 skeet shot cup.
73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia
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Any hints for Magtech all brass 12 gauge? I'm shooting black powder, but patterns are not great, except with .360" round ball.
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Hmmmm. I use the ones (14 ga?) that form into 577-450 for my Martini Mk IV. I've thought of casting a bit of lino in the base to preserve the thin rims.
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