Lyman 20lb may have died

  • 974 Views
  • Last Post 29 July 2021
Richard Pickering posted this 30 March 2021

Last week the Lyman 20 began freezing at the spout. I initially thought of zinc contamination as I was using alloy from a friend's accumulation.  I drained it and cleaned the pot bottom. Today I intended to warm it and possibly cast a bit. 

After having it on for several minutes it had failed to feel warm. This one is at least 30 years old but of course it doesnt get used every day. And the question is----How many have had the electric furnace fail ?  Did the element go open or was the demise from another cause ?  Do you know if Lyman has replacement parts ?

It seems exploratory surgery is in order.  

Thank you. Richard 

Attached Files

  • Liked by
  • M3 Mitch
Order By: Standard | Newest | Votes
358156hp posted this 29 July 2021

LEE parts are not interchangeable with Lyman pots. There are many big differences.

Attached Files

Sonnyk posted this 29 July 2021

all the parts to rebuild it can be found here.  It's not hard nor expensive.

https://leeprecision.com/parts/bullet-casting/electric-melters/production-pot-iv-parts/

Attached Files

358156hp posted this 25 April 2021

The 9th icon from the left at the top of the page is for Images. Click on it, and a box will pop up titled "Insert Image". The "Upload Image" line is for use when you want to upload an image from your computer, click on "Browse" and it allows you to search your computer files for the image you want to upload. "External Image" is for use with image links from other websites that support this action. The third line is optional, and allows you to add a title for your pic, sometimes these links even work. It didn't for me this time. Oh, well.

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 19 April 2021

Bob, that shape does seem to match the one on the pot. Thanks for the photo.  I dont know how to load a photo.  Richard

Attached Files

358156hp posted this 17 April 2021

This is the element that the wire came off from. It's an easy fix, so I kept it for a spare. The connector is simply a standard wire butt connector with the plastic cover removed because of the high temps involved. The shielded wire is easily fabricated from good quality copper wire with a sheath over it. I plan to use a short section of automotive spark plug wire shielding when I finally use this element. Match the wire gauge and construction to the original wire you removed to be safe. The height is approx. 2-3/4. Note the large open space for the original temp sensor. I use a PID, so I removed the bimetal sensor and built an attachment boss on the bottom (yes, bottom) of the pot for my thermocouple.

Outside diameter (OD) is approx. 4-3/4 inches. The element firs snugly, but not overly tightly around the exterior of the sheet metal pot. Note how the element fits around the pots spout, and covers much of the bottom of the pot. My element is marked for 800 watts.

 

Hope this helps!

Bob

Attached Files

  • Liked by
  • TRKakaCatWhisperer
  • M3 Mitch
TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 14 April 2021

If it were me, and it might someday as I've got a couple of pots, I would look for either a band that goes around or a coil that goes under the pot.  It is likely that the form used is a proprietary form.  What's available are generic forms.  When/if you get one to work publish an article on it!  There are lots of folks that will have the same issue!

 

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 14 April 2021

Hi and thanks.  Mine is 120v; common for the U S. I dont know the current draw but I thought I saw a reference to 800W. Someone correct if that is incorrect. It would need an element that duplicates the contours of the original or can be easily formed to that configuration. It heats under the pot as well as around it.  Richard 

Attached Files

TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 14 April 2021

We used similar products in the manufacture of brake pads.  LOTS to choose from.  Need to know voltage (120/240) and the current.  The rest is mechanical.

Attached Files

Hornet posted this 13 April 2021

Back when I was doing plastic injection molding, I bought a lot of heater bands, etc from a company called Plastic Process Equipment. They have an on-line catalog and have hundreds of sizes, wattages, voltages ,etc. You'd have to figure out what you need to fit. Reasonable prices.

Attached Files

  • Liked by
  • TRKakaCatWhisperer
Lee Guthrie posted this 13 April 2021

I listed the company's website at the bottom of my post  

 

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 13 April 2021

Lee, thank you.  I'll have to get the F S issue. Richatd

Attached Files

Lee Guthrie posted this 12 April 2021

Since your problem seems to be the element, this may not help, but there used to be a company that sold thermostats to old Lyman furnaces.  In volume 222 at page 8 of The Fouling Shot was a reference to a B-200 Thermostat.  It's possible they might have an element.

 

See:  http://www.watlowdistributors.com

Attached Files

Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 09 April 2021

since we are all do-it-your-selfers, maybe we could buy some nichrome wire and wind our own heater coils ...  

my nephew worked at Heat-Tech as a coil winder ... seems simple enough procedure ...  

that $150 charge probably includes a $145 set-up charge.  my set-up charge for my cnc machine shop was $200 per new part.  ( about half my cost ) ...

ken

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 08 April 2021

Bob, Tempco Products replied. They have an element they believe is a replacement. It is available at the modest cost of 155$.  I was hoping for possibly 50$.  RP 

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 08 April 2021

Bill, as you might expect, tripping breakers is a clear sign of a direct short to the neutral or to ground. Completely unacceptable.  I'm glad you were able to repair the 20. 

Attached Files

2kbill posted this 08 April 2021

When I was having problems with my MAG20, I ordered a MAG25, which blew every breaker I plugged it into.  Quality Control not so good.  Sent it right back and fixed the MAG20.

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 06 April 2021

Thank everyone for advancing their input. I'm going to explore having an element made / duplicated.  If there are other pertinent remarks, please voice them.  

Richard 

Attached Files

Richard Pickering posted this 06 April 2021

Lyman products made in China----just disgusting.  What did we expect; everything is made there.

 

Attached Files

BigMan54 posted this 06 April 2021

I've heard horror stories about the chinese mag-25.  

And one thing I've noticed about them is they are not open sided. 

The old Pro-Melt, Mag-20 & Lyman XX are all open completely around the spout. I don't know about anyone else but I need clear "vision" around the spout the mag-25 is blocked on both sides. 

It's why I don't use my Lee 10lb for anything but RB.

 

Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.

Attached Files

  • Liked by
  • M3 Mitch
358156hp posted this 06 April 2021

Glad to help Richard. I hope it works out for you.

 

Current Lyman manufacturing is being done in China. The MAG25 had a long list of complaints against it when first released. I rebuilt my MAG20 to avoid buying a MAG 25. One of the primary complaints I've seen involves PID failures. The silly so and so's should have separated the PID (temp controller) from the main housing that also has the pot and heating element in it. I don't think their temp controllers appreciate being that close to a constant 700+ degrees. Mounting it down low in the base would have made a lot of sense.

At least RCBS separated their controller from the pot with a bit more distance on the Pro Melt 2.

Attached Files

  • Liked by
  • M3 Mitch
Show More Posts
Close