Cleaning the Sprue Plate

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Wilderness posted this 17 hours ago

My casting sessions often come to an end when the sprue plate begins to accumulate lead spots and smears – and when I’m looking for an excuse to stop. To minimise the lead smear/spot nuisance I follow the well-beaten remedy of a very light wipe of synthetic two-stroke oil on both sides of the sprue plate and on the tops of the blocks. Nothing new there.

Eventually, I do get lead smears and spots, which I have previously cleaned up with 50:50 white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide – apply, leave for a while, rub with steel wool, repeat until clean.

Then it occurred to me that I could just remove the sprue plate at the end of the casting session, dunk it in the melt while the candle wax flux was burning, then remove and clean with steel wool. This is pretty close to what I do when I want to blue something in the lead pot, and those bits come out nice and clean.

So on my last cast I tried it out. Result was a nice clean sprue plate with a lot less effort expended.

You are only as good as your library.

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4and1 posted this 15 hours ago

Sprue plates are not always sharpened properly. The "funnel" should have a knife edge exactly at the bottom surface. If you can see that edge is shiny, it's not sharp. Use a counter sink cutter to get the edge sharp, then use a piece of thick glass or a ground surface with 600 grit paper and lap the bottom edge so there is no spur.

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fa38 posted this 5 hours ago

I shoot some WD 40 onto a cloth rag and use it to wipe the sprue plate. This works and if it starts sticking again redo it.  I do use 2 stroke oil on the top of the blocks and the underside of the sprue plate

 

Also to heat up the mold to casting temperature I wipe WD 40 on the bottom of the mold and the sides to make easy to wipe off the lead sticking to the mold.  

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