mould for my 35 Whelen-handi-rifle project.

Standard Member

BruceV posted this 11 March 2009

This is the first I've read of your project. A 35 Whelen is a potent game round. As a handi-rifle, I've just got to ask, what action are you using for the basis of your rifle? Wish I could help you out with suggested load information, etc. Sincerely. Bruce.

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 11 March 2009

http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=25c8bae35530fafb4e2281881aeea6cf;act=ST;f=3;t=19540;st=0  

I don't know if that link will be active, but you can copy and paste. It is the thread about the rebarrel project. I will be renting the reamer to finish the project later this month. The rifle in question was originally a .223, however they can be had from the manufacturer in 500 S&W. So pressure isn't a problem. I am a structural welder by trade, and the man who did the welding on the barrel is my mentor. So I trust the welding. there is a link in that thread to Mike Bellm's site, and in that site he shows pics of a barrel that was welded without beveling for penetration, and came apart it looks as though it had approx. 1/32 welds down both sided of the lug. He says that it even survived for a while like that!

Attached Files

Standard Member

jerryb posted this 12 March 2009

RCBS makes a 220 gr flat nose gas check mold that shoots very well in my .358 Win. I use it almost exclusively for woods hunting deer in Pennsylvania. 38 grains of B3032 pushes it to 2200 fps and groups under an inch consistantly. Never had to shoot a deer twice, about half went down in their tracks!

Attached Files

CBA Member

RicinYakima posted this 12 March 2009

FRM#7,

That sounds like a fun project!

Two loads that are popular with some shooting friends of mine are: RCBS 200 grain rifle bullet with 20.0 grains of SR4759 and Lyman 358156 with 12.0 grains of Unique. The first is about 1600 f/s and the second is about 1400 f/s.

Ric

Attached Files

CBA Member

Ed Harris posted this 12 March 2009

What twist is your barrel? If 16 inches you probably don't want to go heavier than about 250 grains in a blunt shape. If 14 inches or faster you can stabilize a 300-grainer in the .35 Whelen and in a 22 inch or longer barrel drive it about 2000 f.p.s. with 54 grs. of H414 or W760. Look at NEI #168 or #169.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 13 March 2009

It is a one in 14 twist that is currently 26 1/2" long. I have some 250 gr LFNGC from BeartoothBullets. That I will use for hunting. I am looking for something along the lines of a 150 to 190 gr bullet to use as a reduced load for practice. I believe that OOO buck shot will fit this bore as well. Also Mr. Harris what are your thoughts on using the “load” of sixteen gr of 2400 in this 35cal case, as it is commonly recomended for .30 calibers.

Attached Files

Standard Member

CB posted this 13 March 2009

I had Veral over at LBT cut me a 160gr. FN bullet for use in my NEF single shot and it shoots great!

I choose a PB model and back it up with a .062 PVC wad and pump it out about 1800 fps.. I get 1 MOA at 100yds and probably could do better if the shooter would do his part all of the time.

Attached Files

CBA Member

galenaholic posted this 13 March 2009

I don't know if Lyman still makes the mould, but #358430 came in two weights, Nominally a 150 gr. bullet and a 195 gr. bullet. I haven't seen anything on the 150 gr. bullet in a very long time, but I think Lyman still makes a mold for the 195 gr. bullet. It's simple round nose plain base bullet that I've used in the .38 Spl. in duplicating the old .38 Spl. 200 gr. police load. It's been a very accurate bullet in that configuration. I see no reason why it wouldn't work as a plinker in a .35 Whelen. My mold casts a 200 gr. bullet in my alloy.

Paul B.

Attached Files

Standard Member

BruceV posted this 13 March 2009

fineredmist_7 wrote: http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=25c8bae35530fafb4e2281881aeea6cf;act=ST;f=3;t=19540;st=0%C2%A0%C2%A0%C2%A0>http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=25c8bae35530fafb4e2281881aeea6cf;act=ST;f=3;t=19540;st=0  

I don't know if that link will be active, but you can copy and paste. It is the thread about the rebarrel project. I will be renting the reamer to finish the project later this month. The rifle in question was originally a .223, however they can be had from the manufacturer in 500 S&W. So pressure isn't a problem. I am a structural welder by trade, and the man who did the welding on the barrel is my mentor. So I trust the welding. there is a link in that thread to Mike Bellm's site, and in that site he shows pics of a barrel that was welded without beveling for penetration, and came apart it looks as though it had approx. 1/32 welds down both sided of the lug. He says that it even survived for a while like that! The link works but how does one actually get to view the picture? Am I doing something wrong? Sincerely. Bruce.

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 14 March 2009

while the link may be active, It does not got to the correct place unless you copy paste it into the http bar. It leads to a thread on the home gunsmith forum where I posted several pics of the project.

Attached Files

Standard Member

jtaylor1960 posted this 15 March 2009

NEI makes several 35 caliber molds going up to 300 grains.

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

I realized today that that link won't work for you all unless you join the HomeGunsmith forum If you do just do a search for fineredmist_7, and it will show you all of my posts, which will lead you to the thread but here is one of the pics from that thread this is the lug tack welded to the barrel.

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

after tacking the lug on we realized that it was a few thou' to far forward so here we are setting up to correct

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

then we welded the lug on

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

and then packed it in lime to allow it to cool slowly

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

threading the thingy that the forend attaches to

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

my browser is acting funny, I will post some more pics tommorow evening

Attached Files

Standard Member

BruceV posted this 16 March 2009

Thank you for the pictures! I was really curious as to exactly how you proceeded in building your rifle. I will look forward to your further postings on this subject. Sincerely. Bruce.

Attached Files

CBA Member

Ed Harris posted this 16 March 2009

fineredmist_7 wrote: Mr. Harris what are your thoughts on using the “load” of sixteen gr of 2400 in this 35cal case, as it is commonly recomended for .30 calibers. Should work fine as a starting load. You can probably go up to about 20 grs. based on leading and accuracy performance.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

Attached Files

Standard Member

fineredmist_7 posted this 16 March 2009

after I attach a picture I hit the send button and I takes a few seconds then it goes to an all white screen and says it is done. I back up the browser and refresh, I has added the text to my thread, but no pic. any ideas?

Attached Files

mould for my 35 Whelen-handi-rifle project.

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