Very Light Loads

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  • Last Post 03 January 2024
Wilderness posted this 02 January 2024

Every so often we see mention of very light loads and gun blow-ups, usually in the context of developing ultralight cast bullet rifle loads, or subsonic squibs with light bullets.

I use these very light loads for several purposes including target shooting. My rules are to use lubed soft lead bullets and fast burning pistol/shotgun powders, and to run enough velocity not to stick a bullet – just subsonic seems reliable. Plated bullets can stick at low velocity. I am also suspicious of hard cast bullets.

The gun blow-ups are said to occur in part from a combination of unsure ignition and start stop bullet movement.

An interesting experiment to try with your intended squib powder is to place 5 gns or so on the ground, load a primed case (in a rifle), place the muzzle about 6” back from the powder, and touch off. Ordinary rifle powders generally are just scattered by the flash without igniting. Something like Red Dot will ignite nicely, despite being over two feet from the primer.

I reason that if powder on the ground will ignite that far from the primer, then I don’t have to worry about it not going off in the cartridge. Conversely I see more reason to worry about a small charge of slow rifle powder.

As an aside, these squibs can probably be used as fire starters if you have with you the means to pull a bullet, i.e. pliers or Leatherman tool. Set up your kindling, tip the powder in where it’s needed, and flash with the primed case.

Happy New Year to all.

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gnoahhh posted this 02 January 2024

I've been doing that very thing with Krags and Springfields for over 50 years. Good old Lyman/Ideal #311241 155 PB cast soft (no harder than COWW's in the beginning, 1-20 or 1-30 alloy today), 50/50 NRA lube. 6 grains Red Dot in Krags, 7.5gr. in .30-06. No fillers, ever.

Funny anecdote: When I first attempted it as a 16 year old in 1969 I bought the mould via mailorder. Initial casting was with a Campbell's soup can that I bent a pour spout onto and a bend in the rim to clamp ViseGrips onto. Heat for melting the soft lead scraps was a propane torch. I had a partial can of 2400 left over from my early "experiments" into the realm of +P .38 Specials and a Lee Loader (no kablooies, but close). When I finally got a couple dozen kind of good looking bullets made I stuffed them into Krag cases and a fairly stiff charge of 2400 - probably in the neighborhood of 2000fps judging by manual consultation. No lube. Gulp, shouldn't need that for a few test shots said I. Off to my "private range" (a target set up on a local hillside) and I was off to the races. First couple shots grouped nicely and then accuracy went south until by the time I fired the last shot I wasn't even hitting close to the paper, or the back stop, or maybe not even the hillside. I popped the bolt out and was shocked to see very little of the rifling left in the bore - the grooves were packed full of lead.Three or four bronze brushes and a jar of Hoppe's later it was back to normal. When I told Ye Olde Curmudgeonly Local Gunshop Guy of my load failure he muttered about dumb kids, idiots, and fools while rummaging through his drawers and came up with a stick of Lyman black lube and a smidgen of Red Dot powder and told me how to employ both items. So I did, and the world has been a cheery place ever since. Kinda.

The Lord does look after the Pure of Heart, I guess.

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Eutectic posted this 03 January 2024

My first foray into smokeless rifle loading was for my brother-in law's 8mm Mauser.
Lyman 323471 was cast of the soft lead alloy I was using for 38 wadcutters.
We loaded the bullets using the Lee Loader and the full charge dipper.

Result was the same as above.

The local reloading guru advised a light charge of 2400 and gave us linotype to add to the lead.

Thus enlightened and set on the right path we were happy.

Steve

 

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