No more!

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  • Last Post 15 June 2017
Pigslayer posted this 04 April 2013

There are two things that I will not do anymore. The first being the smelting/mixing of alloy or melting dirty lead in my bottom pour pot. The second is using marvelous flux! Both of the above make for a very filthy pot! Especially the Marvelux!! I hunted all over for my Lyman 10 lb. pot and think it is forever lost due to one of my moves. So I ordered another one from Lyman last Saturday & received it today. I really like the cast iron pot & sitting here looking at it brings back fond memories of my early casting days back in the very early 70's. The new pot is made just like the old one . . . Thick & heavy! It is easy to clean with nothing to clog up. I've already made a steel stand for it with accommodations for holding a propane torch . . . Just like I did years ago. Although Marvelux flux does work OK, it makes a mess of the pot. It leaves a dirty black crust in the pot which I have no need for. Back to candle wax as that has always worked the best for me.

Pat

If someone else had of done to me what I did to myself . . . I'd have killed him. Humility is an asset. Heh - heh.

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OU812 posted this 15 June 2017

Maybe we are using too much borax (marvalux). I know that borax can leave crust on top edge of pot, but does it leave ash trapped between pot and melt. Ash is what causes most voids in cast bullets.

I like a flux that leaves less ash residue trapped between melt and bottom of bottom pour pot. Saw dust is the worse. Be sure to scrape bottom and sides of pot well when fluxing before using bottom pour pot. 

Wax leaves ash behind also...trapped between melt and wall. Less is best.

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BigMan54 posted this 14 June 2017

I wish I had read the last post a bit better.  I tried the Borax. Had 2/3 22lb pot of Lino. Was going to Flux after all the sprues melted down. Saw the box of Borax in the back porch while doing laundry as I waited for the pot  to come up to temp for fluxing.  What the h**l I'll give it a try. BIG HEAPING TABLESPOON!!!!!

BAD ! BAD ! BAD ! , it "Fuomped up" I pulled the dipper out of the pot & started cleaning the "inflated" borax crystals out of the pot with the ice tea spoon that I use to skim of dross with. Took a good long time. Then I fluxed with my usual used beeswax. Got about 3 specks. Guess the borax does work. Just not so much next time.

I too get by "beeswax" from cheese "wrappers".

Marvelux is D****D nasty stuff. I hate  it with a passion.

Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.

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Elmo posted this 11 June 2017

Pine sawdust is my choice and I have tried most of the commonly used methods.

 Elmo

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Hamish posted this 27 June 2016

Ed Harris wrote: Absolutely BEST flux I have ever used is Vitaflux, by Rich Graphic Products, Imperial Metal and Chemical Co.,, Chicago, IL 60650.

One stick 3” x 1” diameter treats 1 TON of linotype metal in the old hot type machines. Stick is graduated into ten sections, each thick wafer treats 200 pounds of metal.  For 50 pounds of metal use 1/4 of a wafer, for a 20-lb. pot full I touch the stick against the surface of the melt for 2-3 seconds and remove quickly to melt off about 5-6 drops of the melted flux onto the melt surface.

Directions say to “Stir metal until dross is reduced to fine powder, skim and reduce dross and replace with equal weight of “Imperial Plus Metal."

Kester 951 flux is comparable http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-VitaFlux-Lead-Alloy-Revitalizer-Dross-Removal-Lead-Sinker-Bullet-Casting-/282076549840?hash=item41ad1292d0

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12255-Vitaflux>http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?12255-Vitaflux

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Hamish posted this 27 June 2016

6pt-sika wrote: I never have tried Marvelux , always used old candles or discarded lubed bullets for fluxing and it works okay as long as I don't go overboard with the lubed bullets !

 I also only have Lee bottom pour pots a pair of 10 pounders and a 20 pounder .So those are my only choices fr smelting WW's and scrap .

And so far KNOCK ON WOOD I've not had any major problems !

Now watch me fire one of them up next week and the thing blows up /images/emoticons/134.gif Do yourself a huge favor and buy a turkey fryer and a steel pot for smelting down and fluxing dirty lead to remove the dirt, crud, and contaminant from your alloy.  ONLY candle wax goes in my bottom pour pots to keep everything in suspension.  You WILL make better bullets.  Marvelux, for our purposes, is GARBAGE.

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kjohn posted this 26 June 2016

Well, I guess I get the dumba$$ award! I have been using Marvelux for years and never cottoned to the fact that it was causing all the crud in my Lee bottom pour pots. Okay, out with Marvelux and in with wax. I remember using toilet bowl rings, and they seemed to work okay.

I have only ever used Lee bottom pour pots. I have 2 10 lb, and a new 20 lb that I haven't found yet, after my last and final move. The older 10 lb has melted a PILE of wheel weights. It sees duty as the pot for initial melts into mini muffin tins. Other than occasionally cleaning the spout, neither has ever caused me any grief.:)

Two things you never want to run low on.....

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Duke M posted this 13 March 2016

Ed,back in the 70's when I was scrounging every print shop I could find I, I grabbed those flux sticks. They are even conveniently covered in tin. I even have a bunch still in the card board dispenser that hung on the wall like an old time match safe. I ration it carefully.

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Ed Harris posted this 12 March 2016

Absolutely BEST flux I have ever used is Vitaflux, by Rich Graphic Products, Imperial Metal and Chemical Co.,, Chicago, IL 60650.

One stick 3” x 1” diameter treats 1 TON of linotype metal in the old hot type machines. Stick is graduated into ten sections, each thick wafer treats 200 pounds of metal.  For 50 pounds of metal use 1/4 of a wafer, for a 20-lb. pot full I touch the stick against the surface of the melt for 2-3 seconds and remove quickly to melt off about 5-6 drops of the melted flux onto the melt surface.

Directions say to “Stir metal until dross is reduced to fine powder, skim and reduce dross and replace with equal weight of “Imperial Plus Metal."

Kester 951 flux is comparable.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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Bud Hyett posted this 12 March 2016

Corn meal works well as flux and as a cover for the top of the alloy when casting.

I did not have any cat litter and first used corn meal for sealing the alloy after fluxing. I noticed the bottom of the seal had dirt attached and began experimenting with small amounts of corn meal as flux.

Small amounts spooned onto the molten lead, then stirred will work This mixes well, the alloy slightly boils and the turbulence brings the crud to the top. I add more corn meal, light off all the crud and skim everything off. Then I dust the top with corn meal, light it to stop the fumes and cast.

I think the corn oil is the magic ingredient for cleaning, the organic matter burns and seals the pot from air oxidation while casting.  

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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cbshtr posted this 08 March 2016

I've been using Marvelux for several years now in my Lee 20 pound pot. I preclean all my lead in a cast iron pot so only clean ingots go into the casting pot. The last couple years if I don't have the pot temperature up well over 700 degrees I can't get it to flow thru the bottom pour spout. After reading all these comments I'm beginning to think the Marvelux might be the reason for the lack of flow. As much as I hate to do it I guess I'm going to have empty the pot and clean it out. I have plenty of old candles I can use for Flux and saw dust is no problem either.

Robert Homan

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kcajeel posted this 05 March 2016

I've used Marvelux, bullet lube, beeswax, and deer tallow.  I'd rate the products as; Best to worse:  Deer tallow                          Beeswax                          Bullet lube                          Marvelux

Marvelux for me is just awful. If I had tried it first when I started casting I would have quit right there.

Jack

Jack

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MrWolf posted this 18 January 2016

I use the pet bedding pine shavings from Walmart for fluxing. One bag is basically a lifetime supply. For reducing I use the parafin wax.

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RicinYakima posted this 18 January 2016

RD, -2 is cold, but it is winter in South Dakota. It has not been down to single digits here this winter, but snowing like all beat out up in the mountains behind my house. 22 feet and three more months of snow coming, so the ranchers and farmers are happy lots of water this year. Ric

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R. Dupraz posted this 18 January 2016

Well Rick as hard as it may seem, I'd have to say no. I didn't know that. I'm just a simple man and go with what works. Besides that I'm cheap. -2 here this morn.

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RicinYakima posted this 18 January 2016

RD, Did you know that Bee's Wax has more than 250 complex organic chemicals in it? Plus it varies depending upon what the bees are bringing back to the hive? It is my second favorite flux. Ric

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R. Dupraz posted this 17 January 2016

Raw bee's wax. Course it helps to have a bee keeper across the street.

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JPnewhampshire posted this 17 January 2016

Hi All: I have a portable sawmill so endless sawdust--I put about 2 lbs in a can atop the woodstove to dry it out// JP

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 28 October 2015

billglaze wrote: Thanks to TRK, I bought and have been using, 20 Mule Team Borax.  It keeps the melt from oxidizing, but I'm not sure about actually fluxing the melt; I hit the melt with either my wife's discarded candles, or some canning paraffin she bought me, then about a half tablespoon of Boraxo.  The system works great for me.  I have a container of Marvellux that I'm waiting to give to someone I don't like.  As an aside, I've been to Furnace Creek Inn, and other Death Valley sites often; have seen an original (they claim) 20 mule team wagon.  Huge!  Really worth the trip over from my then-home in Las Vegas. Bill The borax does keep the top from oxidizing, and it mixes with the crud that comes to the top.  I find if I use a wood stick (wedge or 3/4x1 10” long scrap board) that the mix cleans up quickly. 

Whatever.  If it works and isn't poisonous use it!

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Coydog posted this 28 October 2015

I use ground up corn cobs.it works for me.

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bigbore52 posted this 24 October 2015

Yup, agree wholeheartedly with all these comments.....I started off using the Marvelux some time back and quickly gummed up the works with the scale it left behind...spent ages cleaning the pots after each melt.

Suggestions of various wood shaving and dust all work but I found pine especially did not flux as well as some of the other hardwoods...found it tended to flame before the fluxing effect took on but it does work if you work it right.

I now use a mix of bees wax and paraffin (candle wax) left over from lube making - doesn't need much, tea spoon at most and never leaves a crud deposit which is what I like about it..smells great but tends to attract the bees in large numbers here so I mostly brew it after dark - am sure there are numerous brews suitable but for me, wax is the way to go.....just my two bobs worth

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