12 March 2012
Remove the butt stock and barrel assembly.
1) Remove the trigger return spring. Narrow the working area of this small leaf spring 20%, no more, measure carefully. Polish the spring end round and when you replace it, place a washer or more under it to shim it up about 1 MM. Do not bend the spring. I narrowed mine with oil and a fine Arkansas stone by hand, -no power tools, they will draw the temper out of this small, narrow spring and ruin it. I had to shape 2 small shim washers also. Don't over elevate the spring with too much shimmimg---THE SAFETY WILL NOT WORK IF YOU DO. It should still contact the point where it was originally. Moving the spring point right or left may greatly smooth trigger pull creep from jagged to smooth if you find the just right spot for it by trial and error.
2) Remove the hammer spring by cocking the hammer past full and place a needle in the hole of the spring rod. Then the rod with spring will jiggle out. Next I used a large nut and a vise to cock the spring and remove the needle. Shorten the spring only 1 (only one) turn. and polish both ends of the spring. Putting the spring back is difficult, it has to be compressed and a needle put in the hole again. Then replace the spring and over-cock to remove the needle. Use care not to loose the small white cartridge in chamber indicating nylon part, It can fall out with the hammer spring out of the action.
3) Last I do what is called an “in situ” sear polishing. Replace the barrel assembly temporarily for this procedure. Get a Snap Cap dummy round in your caliber. With the Butt stock still off the gun I put fine polishing paste on the sear, 400 to 600 grit. Cock and dry fire about 200 times so the firing pin hits the Snap Cap. Keep the sear swimming with compound paste during all that dry firing. I used a small brush.
Flush the action out well with mineral spirits and air blasts several times to get out compound. This will also get out the factory grit that is STILL in there since the rifle was made also! There is a lot. Re-lube the action with Slick 50, work it and blast it out. Lube again and re-assemble.
I will not guarantee this will work for you and do not know your skill level, but this is what worked for me. Be very careful, you could ruin both springs and your sear and trash your rifle, then you will have to get new parts from Russia.
A gun smith could follow this method but will likely charge you $150.00 or more if he will work on the gun at all. It is a Russian firearm and Smithies are very concerned about getting new parts from Russia if they make an error.
Keep me posted with a PM please.
NOTE: I was warned that after this modification the rifle will not like to fire ammo with the hard thick skinned Russian primers, but I only use CCI primers and have had no misfires from light firing pin strike.
I did not attempt to shorten creep but I made the creep smooth and got the pull down to 3 pounds. I would not stone and re-shape the sear to shorten creep, that is beyond my skill level.
Last edited 11:46 PM , March 11, 2012