I went to an ugly sweater Christmas party this last weekend, so naturally, I took a trip to the local Goodwill to pick up a cheap, ugly sweater. As soon as I walk in, I look down and see what looked to me at the time to be a vest with many pockets on the front for magazines. Upon closer inspection, I found that it is a workout vest, with 30 lead weights strapped inside of it. I picked it up and nearly fell over it was so much weight. I inquired about the vest and bought it for $10. I weighed the lead weights when I got home and found them to weigh in at 80lbs. I have sent an email to the manufacturer inquiring about what kind of alloy it is. I doubt I will hear back from them, but it never hurts to try. I did a sophisticated scratch test (using a random car key) and compared it with scratching a wheel weight. They feel exactly the same. I'm hoping to get a response back from them, but in the meantime I'll probably try casting a few to see how they fill out and then test their hardness with bullets made from water and air cooled wheel weights to see the difference.
Surprising Lead Source
- 3.3K Views
- Last Post 13 January 2010
I guess it pays to keep your eyes open. A couple years ago (before I was casting) a buddy of mine through out an ugly old lamp that his grandfather had poured lead into the base to correct it being top-heavy. I bet it weighed 100lbs. I wish I could get that one back.
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Yep,
lucky score! The great thing about casting is the 'scrounging' aspect!
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The great thing about casting is the 'scrounging' aspect!
That depends on you luck in obtaining some results for the effort!
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See, I'm never going to get a chance like this. An “ugly sweater” Christmas party? I wouldn't have to go to the second hand store...
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Haha. Believe it or not, I just got a response from the vest manufacturer. He said they use a 3% antimony alloy to harden up the lead. Should I add tin to help it fill out the mold better? Each of these bars weighs 2 pounds. How much tin per bar should I use? Thanks.
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One half oz. per two pound bar should be about right. For me that is 12 inches of lead free solder from the rolls I got at the box store. HTH,Ric
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Thanks, Ric. I figured this had antimony but no tin because it is a bit harder than pure lead, but you can also see wrinkles where their molds did not fill out. He also said the black coating was enamel paint. Should I remove this before melting, or just melt and flux the crud out? -Aaron
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Enamel paint will burn off and leave carbon and metal ash. The few painted igots I have done over the years worked fine, but the paint tends to stick to the sides of the pot, and spout if bottom pour. You could probably just flux well after it is a temperature for 5 mintues and not have any problems. Ric
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Thanks, Ric. I ladle pour anyway. I was thinking of trying some acetone, but I probably won't even bother.
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I look thru the junk stores very often, Katie and I have a list of things we look for.
The vest weights are probably pure lead or many time the quality of range lead. I am amazed that something like that was allowed on the retail market, especially in place like California. Lead is evil if you listen to the EPA.
Jerry
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Haha. Believe it or not, I just got a response from the vest manufacturer. He said they use a 3% antimony alloy to harden up the lead. Should I add tin to help it fill out the mold better? Each of these bars weighs 2 pounds. How much tin per bar should I use? Thanks.
Its a safe bet that they used virgin lead plus the 3% antimony, so you know exactly what you have. Forget the tin, it does nothing useful except for hunting bullets. What you need is a bit more hardness than 3% antimony. I use the industry standard 6% for handgun bullets, but you can get away with 5% for most purposes. Just add another 2% antimony and you are in business. For good rifle bullets for range use 10% antimony is good.
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Forget the tin? Everything I've read and learned in 25 yrs. tells me a little tin is necessary for 'good fillout'. I'm not doubting your position, I expect it works for you and I beleive you know what you're talking about. BUT, this emphasizes the fact(in my opinion) that any old lead mix can be made to shoot well, one way or another. You hear a lot of questions here about alloy composition of mystery lead or scrap, my take is if it'll make a bullet shoot it. I classify my alloys as soft, medium, hard, and hard as hell, based on a WAG. Then I try to match them up to my loads based on pressure expectations. Maybe the popularity of tin is due partly to being able to add tin easily to harden alloy.
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The manufacturer didn't say anythng about tin content. I mixed two bars (5lbs) with about 5lbs of ww. They filled out perfectly, cast some nice looking boolits that are significantly harder than ww only. I'll be pleased as soon as I get to shoot some of them.
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