casting the 223

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  • Last Post 08 March 2010
breakallthebirds posted this 11 July 2009

I have just started casting and im want to start casting 223 rem any recommendations on what cast I should buy would be much appreciated

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lordgroom posted this 11 July 2009

<url=view_topic.php?id=1865&amp;forum_id=9>http://www.castbulletassoc.org/view_topic.php?id=1865&amp;forum_id=9</url>

  http://www.castbulletassoc.org/viewtopic.php?id=1884&forumid=9

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CB posted this 26 July 2009

Break

I am going to answer your question for bolt action guns, thats all I have. If just starting you need to pick up a couple loading manuals. The couple I would recommend are the Lyman and the RCBS.

In these manuals they will show what molds they make and recommended loads. Single cavity molds are the way to start. Start with 1 powder 1 primer 1 bullet diameter. Keep the barrel clean and start at the 50 yd until things make sense to you.

 

Stephen Perry

Angeles BR:fire

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Dicko posted this 14 December 2009

breakallthebirds wrote: I have just started casting and im want to start casting 223 rem any recommendations on what cast I should buy would be much appreciated

There are not many 224 moulds available.   My catalogs are old but here's what they have.   RCBS has one, the 22-055-SP.   Lyman has three, #225438 44 grain RN, #225415 ( practically identical to the RCBS bullet ) and #225646.   Saeco has one, #221 which is 60 grain.

I have no personal experience of the calibre but there have been reports on this forum of sub MOA being achieved with the RCBS bullet.

Rifle bullets need to be harder than handgun bullets if good accuracy is to be achieved especially at higher velocities.   Up to 2000FPS 10% antimony is OK, but I recommend 12% above 2000FPS.   So forget about wheelweights as is.   Wheelweights are a good base material but need more antimony.    They are supposed to contain 4% but may not be more than 3%.   But that's not too critical, if you add 6% or 8% depending on velocity you will be OK.   You can get antimony from any lead foundry, alternatively from The Antimony Man.

 

 

 

 

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Dicko posted this 14 December 2009

Dicko wrote:

There are not many 224 moulds available.   My catalogs are old but here's what they have.   RCBS has one, the 22-055-SP.   Lyman has three, #225438 44 grain RN, #225415 ( practically identical to the RCBS bullet ) and #225646.   Saeco has one, #221 which is 60 grain.

 

Just after I wrote this I looked into “Best Bullets for 223 Rem 1:12 twist Rem VVSF"   Lot of interesting stuff on there.   If you haven't looked I recommend you should.

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leadburner posted this 02 January 2010

Midsouth shooters supply has a Lee Bator mold,it is special order and you have to keep an eye on when they have them,but that mold casts the nicest 55 grainer and it shoots well in my single shot .223 in front of 16 grns. of H-4198

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leadburner posted this 02 January 2010

Oh,and that is with a bnh of 15,and they run 2350 fps.

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72coupe posted this 02 January 2010

I shoot the Lyman 225415 bullet with 4 to 5 grains of Red Dot at a velocity of 1400 to 1600 fps.

They shoot very well in my Model 70 Heavy Varmint with a 1/9 twist barrel.

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delmarskid1 posted this 06 February 2010

.22 molds are a bear to get up to temp. as they they have such small cavities . It helps to warm them on a hot plate or some such. Using pure lino helps a lot too. I've saved the bottom half of a drip coffee pot for just such an occasion.

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Coydog posted this 07 March 2010

I have a 22-250 and I just got the lyman 225646 mold and I test them in my Rem 700 with the BHN of 11.8 with GC and use red dot and shoot just fine. The Lyman mold is 2 cavity and when I cast them you keep the mold hot . I do that by keeping the alloy hot . I have no problems as long as I done that. Hope this help.

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DAMRON G posted this 07 March 2010

I have found 22 caliber molds no more finicky or harder to heat up than many 30 calibers, also think most 22 molds are the fastest production rate per hour as well. The only 22 I own that needs a heat up is an LBT 2 cavity and I have to occasionally dip it to keep it heated, but the bullets it produces are beautiful. I have two Lyman 4 cavity 22 caliber molds and was almost talked into milling a large trough in the bottom of the bloks to help the things keep temperature. Good thing I decided to cast with them first as they are up to temp pretty darn fast as they are. My Eagan 22's are very large single cavity brass blocks and I have kept the 2nd bullet cast from a cold mold and it shot into the group with the warmed up bullets, while a couple other Eagan's I have in 30 caliber take 20-30 castings to get “keepers” All of this is based on linotype metal at high casting temps, so maybe wheelweight or similar at low temp could be different. Just my 2 cents.

George

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DAMRON G posted this 07 March 2010

oops double post

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jhalcott posted this 08 March 2010

Not sure what you mean by HI temps in lino. I cast a 22 caliber bullet that drops at 55 grains when using lino. WW's drop a grain or so heavier. Lino melts at a lower temperature than wheel weights according to MY thermometer. I heat the mold before I start to pour and usually get good bullets by the 3rd try.A Lee bottom pour pot is my pot of choice.

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DAMRON G posted this 08 March 2010

jhalcott wrote: Not sure what you mean by HI temps in lino. I cast a 22 caliber bullet that drops at 55 grains when using lino. WW's drop a grain or so heavier. Lino melts at a lower temperature than wheel weights according to MY thermometer. I heat the mold before I start to pour and usually get good bullets by the 3rd try.A Lee bottom pour pot is my pot of choice.

I cast 22 bullets with linotype @700 deg and have the best results.For me and my casting method with all 22 calibers ( lead ladle poured into sprue hole without contact.) i like it hot.Even the 4 cavity .22 molds do well with the ladle.I have yet to find a 22 bullet that had much weight variation at all when using linotype cast as above.

George

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