Favorite 308 bullet

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Last Post 09 May 2012

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JetMech posted this 02 November 2008

What's some of your guys favorite bullet for military rifles? I'm looking for an accurate bullet for my Spanish Mauser. Currently have Lyman 311284 and 311041, but the 311284 might be too long to stabilize in a 1:12 barrel at reduced velocity. The 311041 might work well, but for some reason, I think I need a new mold for Christmas.

Basically, I'll be shooting it at 100 yds, with some work at 200 and will be pushing it between 1300 - 1700fps at most so I can hopefully use straight WW metal, or maybe a little harder. This is my first time loading a 7.62x51 with cast bullets.

Bill

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tturner53 posted this 09 May 2012

Here's something I found looking around on Google! Seems this has been discussed before (see my post with poll). Now I have to try the Saeco 315, based on above post by Wally. For some reason I've only been trying bore riders. The 315 has been good in everything else I've tried it in.

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CB posted this 01 January 2009

Bill You have to start a new post to start a poll. At least CBA Members can. If you have questions on how to do that just send me a PM and I will walk you through it. Jeff

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CWME posted this 01 January 2009

I finally got to the range this morning with the 311291 HP and my Ruger M77 30-06. My initial load of 28gr of H4895 got me a 20 shot 50 yard group of 1 5/8".

Time to work up a load for this bullet, not a bad way to start though.

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JetMech posted this 22 December 2008

Shoot, that's a great price on a mold. I haven't tried aluminum molds, but at that price, you can't go wrong.

That's the only issue I have with the FR8s as well. That front sight adjustment is a PITA.

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CB posted this 21 December 2008

When Micahel has the molds in stock, they are $26.00 for a 2C.

http://www.ranchdogmolds.com/

Jerry

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CB posted this 21 December 2008

You would be surprised at what shoots great in my FR8. The Ranch Dog TLC311-165-RF bullet sized to .311 My rifle got really accurate with these bullets, the sights still s*ck, but it's my knock about rifle.

Jerry

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JetMech posted this 20 December 2008

Alot of folks seem to like the Saeco 315! It has alot of bearing surface and a short, flat nose, a bullet that appears as if it will perform on game as well as a target in a variety of .30 cal cartidges. If I have to narrow my choices to one mold, (and with molds running $80 a pop, I may have to), this may be the one. I should have started a poll. Does anyone know how to do that?

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Wally Enga posted this 20 December 2008

Dan Willems wrote: Dollar Bill

I like the Saeco 315 described as a 30-30 bullet. My buddy Gerry and I use 18-18.5 gr of SR4759 in the 30-06. I've also used 18gr for the 30-40 Krag.

The nose of the Saeco 315 starts at .298, but then tapers out to .310, so it fits most .30 throats. It weighs 160gr cast in Lino..............Dan

Mike Christopher & Donn Hanks have shot the Saeco 315 for years in the 03A3.

It's about all they seem to use out in Arizona. :)

Wally

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CWME posted this 20 December 2008

Dollar bill, You are a mind reader:shock: I was thinking the same thing!

I was going to hit the range this afternoon but we got nailed with a snow storm last night. So much for 2-4 inches and over by morning. It's still snowing... Been plowing 8-10 inches to boot.... Maybe next Sat:(

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PETE posted this 20 December 2008

Dollar Bill,

My favorite bullet for my Springfield '03 is the Lyman 311334, with the Lyman 311291 running a close 2nd. I have used the first one for the CBA Postals with some success.

PETE

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JetMech posted this 19 December 2008

George, I have heard the same thing about hollow point bullets being more accurate because of the CG being aft of the center of pressure or more central to the bullets rotation. Being monitarily challenged, I shoot the Sierra 165 gn BTHP GameKing instead of the 168 MatchKing for my jacketed “match” load in my 03A3. Having shot the 165 gn BTSP with the same load, the HP version is measureably more accurate. And with you guys talking about HP molds, it seemed a good chance you had seen some change in accuracy, hopefully for the better.

CWME, you might think about having your 311041 hollow pointed. It might make it a winner for you. For me, it's been my deer bullet for a number of years and consistantly delivers 2 1/2 - 3” groups @100 yds from my Marlin 336, good enough for it's intended purpose.

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Antietamgw posted this 19 December 2008

linoww wrote: Antietamgw wrote: and Saeco 316 but that's because I can cast them alot faster!

I shoot the SAECO #630 that is like the 316,but wthout a GC.How big does the #316 cast on the nose and body??

George

George, my 316 drops at .310/.300 with WW. I'd like to see .311/.302. I crimp the check on, if used, and size nose first, setting the stops to bump slighty and end up at .301 or so on the nose. I like this 4 cavity mold alot and got it in a swap with Ed Harris. He sent along some bullets he had cast and lubed with Liquid Alox. They shot very well in a couple Marlin 336's, both Ballard and Microgroove with mild loads. Below are a few 50 yd. groups with 10 Bhn. Saeco 316 and 311291 with the nose bumped to .302. Lube is LBT Blue They were shot in a Marlin 336 .30-30 with microgroove barrel. The load is 14/H4227. I've found up to 17.5gr. H4227 sufficiently accurate but generally use this 14gr. load. If I need more velocity I switch to a slower powder. I've found that I'm real low on the Saeco bullet and need to cast some more. If you want to swap some 316's for 630's, let me know. It's Friday evening and my wife just informed me that our 15yr. old daughter is having friend's over this evening for pizza and movies. That's more drama than I can handle so I think I'll head out to the shop with a thermos of coffee and a handful of Christmas cookies.

Keep your plowshare and your sword. Know how and when to use them.

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linoww posted this 19 December 2008

Gerry has sent the odd mold to his son-in-law to have the gas checks turned out on a lathe to make it into a plain-base cb.

I shoot it without the GC and it works pretty darn well.I like your idea.Should be a winner.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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CB posted this 19 December 2008

linoww wrote: And i did forget how much i like the SAECO #315 Dan recommended.I would put that on the top of the list.Especially in a 4 cavity!!!

Gerry has two of the Saeco 315 double cavity mold blocks. One cavity out of the two molds shoots better than the rest, hands down.

Anyway, Gerry has sent the odd mold to his son-in-law to have the gas checks turned out on a lathe to make it into a plain-base cb. The mold is done, but Gerry hasn't got back to get it (300 mile drive). I just called him yesterday to see if he got it back yet, as I am anxious to borrow it! :P We have high hopes it'll be a good choice!...............Dan

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linoww posted this 19 December 2008

Dollar Bill wrote: Has anyone found that converting a mold to a hollow point has made it more accurate?

Bill

Three of my HP conversions (SAECO#307,225438 and 311410)i shoot the most seem to be more accurate.At least i have shot my smallest groups with them after the conversions.I have heard it said it can help get the center of gravity more central to the bullets rotation and thats why they sometimes shoot better.I am not an engineer so don't quote me on that one.

I shoot the #307(.30 cal 175 FP) bullet as a hunting round from WW and at 1950 FPS it shoots into 1.5” for a junker sporterized 1903.it was a 2” bullet before HP'ing.I have a FP(non HP) pin for the #307and intend to cast some with the HP and some without to really see it is true.It would be fair as the bullets would be coming from the same cavity and casting session.

My Lyman 225438 is a 2 cavity and the HP cavity definitely shoots better,but possibly the cavity I HP'ed may have shot better before if i had just segregated the bullets?The non HP side shoots 2-3.” and the HP side will do 1.25 to 2.25” Loaded in a 22-250 @ 2100 fps.

The Lyman 311410 single cavity i have a monster HP in also shoots noticeably better than it did before.It never shot much under 2-1/2” at 100 and now it shoots 1"-1.5” for 5 at 100 and sometimes 10 shot groups run 2".This is with a light load of 7.5 of bullseye.

And i did forget how much i like the SAECO #315 Dan recommended.I would put that on the top of the list.Especially in a 4 cavity!!!

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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CWME posted this 19 December 2008

I hope to find out Saturday Morning. My 225415 was not all that great on paper before the HP conversion. As I said before in another post he made the pin to run deep into the bullet changing the balance. We will see tomorrow if it improves anything. If it doesn't improve I at least have a useful short range squirrel killer. As a solid shooting 2” 50 yard groups I have no use for it.

I'd like to try the 314299 in my M1. Next on the list after a 358156!

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JetMech posted this 19 December 2008

Time to expand my stock of .30 molds! The SAECO 315 looks like a good one, along with the Lyman 311 or 314299 and 311291.

Has anyone found that converting a mold to a hollow point has made it more accurate?

Bill

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linoww posted this 18 December 2008

CWME wrote: LinoWW,

Thanks for the tip on the warm up!! I can't get the 30cal spud hot enough to form the nose correctly. This should help!

Thinking on it a bit you can cam the blocks open with the HP pin from the looks of it. Maybe I “Beagled” it without knowing...?? Still new to the HP setup as I have never had one before. It's bigger than my double cavity though for sure!

If the pin isn't warm enough(on initial startup) you almost cant get it rotated and out of the mold.As i cast i periodically dip the pin to keep up the temp.I believe Ed Harris is casting with two pins sometimes and keeping one on a hotplate.

George

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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CWME posted this 18 December 2008

LinoWW,

Thanks for the tip on the warm up!! I can't get the 30cal spud hot enough to form the nose correctly. This should help!

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linoww posted this 18 December 2008

He made the 225415 pin LONG for real deep cavity.

My 225438 also has a very deep pin.I warm it up by casting without the pin in a few times until the lead partially runs through.Then i warm the pin in the melt and usually the first or second bullet is a keeper.

The 311291 cast out of WW with about half a roll of solder added cast out to .315 on the driving bands and .3015 on the nose shank

It looks like you did get the mold i had.It seems like it casts pretty round, though i don't recall is going .315!!.I only let it go because i picked up a two cavity that casts .311/.302.

The molds came in from Erik this afternoon! I cast up some of both and I am VERY impressed with his work.

Yes Erik's work is quite nice and a deal for what you are getting.

George Damron

"if it was easy we'd let women do it" don't tell my wife I said that!

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