Has anyone ever tried coating their LEAD bullets and bore with this stuff. Can it replace soft waxy lubes. Less fouling shots before shooting for score. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1064222645/lyman-super-moly-spray-lube-aerosol
lyman-super-moly-spray-lube-aerosol
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- Last Post 16 January 2016
in the '70s i used a commercial grease * moly-lube * which worked fine for cast lubricant . didn't know if it was the grease carrier or the moly ... that was before the big MOLY debate . i just knew it worked great on high pressure sliding surfaces .
later i used spray ” black chain oil ” which is moly based . works fantastic for gun mechanism grease also .
then i went to using a high quality bearing grease ( andok c ) with dry moly powder mixed in . mostly on rimfire, i found i needed almost none to do the job .
i did not find better pure accuracy with the moly goop ... but did find that if i used just a teensy bit, i did not need to scrub the barrels. using non-moly factory match ammo, some barrels needed cleaning every 50 shots .... but some barrels didn't .... so as usual, results are not quite definitive ... i do think it helps stabilize barrel conditioning and would like to see more data ....
use of moly on benchrest mj bullets may be a different set , but i do know some very good shooters still use moly and seldom or never scrub their barrels.
i might mention that with the rimfires if i used it on every bullet, i had to run a ed's red patch about every 100 rounds ....so i found that i needed only to glisten the bullet every third shot .... almost none !!!
just some trivia ... oh, i got high quality dry moly powder from mcmaster-carr . black chain lube from ace hardware . i also use the moly chain lube on my south bend spindle plain bearings .
ken
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I use the spray stuff on the change gears of my lathes. Makes a mess but, I feel it's worth it.
Haven't used it in bullets though.
Frank
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When I was first starting in cast rifle bullet shooting in the early 1990's I tried a product by DOW Chemical that was used on the chain drives of deck equipment in Alaska fleet fishing. It was basically moly in a carrier, but had a slightly sticky component. A couple of thin coats sprayed on the bullets let you skip normal lube. However it was not as accurate for me over the long haul, or at speeds over about 1400 f/s from the 30/06 Springfield rifles I use. It would build up in the bore and required brass brush removal. FWIW, Ric
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RicinYakima
Maybe it was lead fouling that had to be removed by brush. Did you ever try coating both the inside of “barrel” and lead bullets? I am thinking if the barrel is coated, this would prevent lead fouling near muzzle end of barrel.
I read moly must be applied at muzzle to prevent entering chamber (tight patch at chamber). Barrel must be cleaned well with acetone before applying.
BTW I also have the Dow brand...vintage 1995, Green and Yellow spray can.
....
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Yep, the same stuff. Not leading, as in those days I was using an Outer's Foul-Out religiously. It was all moly. HOWEVER, you may discover a better technique than I used, so have at it friend!
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as mentioned above:: if i glistened every rimfire bullet i would get some ” fliers ” .... with glisten every three bullets it settled down . maybe almost none is about right . needs more testing .
ken
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Coating the clean bore with a moly coated patch is not easy. I think the moly will stick better to a dirtier powder fouled barrel. 62 gr LBT bullets coated with moly then sized. 224 caliber
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I will test these Moly coated bullets in my 223 Remington VS (1/12 twist). Throat has been cut deeper to allow for longer bearing surface LBT bullet. Throat diameter is .2245 and bullets sized to .2244. Gun has always shot pretty good with these cast bullets, but I was suspecting some fliers caused by wet lubes. Maybe dry moly will help. 6 grs. Tite Group 7 grs. Tite Group 6 grs. Blue Dot 7 grs. Blue Dot Replaced with 13 grs of V133
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The testing results of my Moly painted bullets was not good. The “Dow brand moly” quickly fouled barrel and accuracy was poor. The barrel was also very difficult to clean afterwards.
Maybe the Lyman brand moly uses a different and better carrying solvent that is less tacky.
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Thanks for reporting your results. They may save someone else from some work.
John
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I haven't used Lymans Spray Moly, but I have used Midway/Frankford Arsenal “Mold Prep” on 38 Spl wadcutters, and semiwadcutters. It did work really well, both with, and without additional lubing, and sizing. This was reasonably close to being on topic, so I thought I'd throw it out for a little background on the subject. I never did try it on anything faster though.
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