Short Chambered Barrel (308 Winchester)

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  • Last Post 14 September 2014
OU812 posted this 30 June 2014

I just ordered one of Brownells Short Chambered Shilen chrome molly barrels on sale with free shipping. It has the Remington Varmint contour, 1/10 twist, 308 Winchester caliber. Which reamer should I order to achieve a smaller .3095 diameter lead while still retaining the standard 308 Winchester chamber and neck size. Would the 308 Obermyer version work. This is my first post. Thanks, Keith  

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R. Dupraz posted this 14 September 2014

Looks like you have a winner there OU812. Nice work.

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OU812 posted this 14 September 2014

I just want to say thanks again to all you guys that have helped me understand how to shoot cast bullets more accurately. People who are interested in this topic should read here. Quoting you guys would teach other cast shooters a lot.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 16 August 2014

to coin a phrase :::

” MISSION ACCOMPLISHED “

life is good ken

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OU812 posted this 15 August 2014

Here is the rifle. Barrel length is 26 with 1-10 twist. Shortening barrel to 22-24” may tighten groups more...along with better shooting skills

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OU812 posted this 15 August 2014

Here are my best targets so far. I still need to tweak powder charge a little bit more. This barrel likes snug fitting bore riding bullets best such as the RCBS 165 Sil, and Lyman 314299.

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OU812 posted this 09 August 2014

So far the gun shoots very accurately. More accurate than factory barrel and easier to clean. I will post pictures of targets using few different loads. The RCBS 165sil bullet loaded with 22grs 4759 powder did verywell with no leading of barrel.

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 03 August 2014

couple things ..

1) notice you bot a no-go gauge. by now you have probably noticed that for precision work you will never need this ( g ) . sell it y buy a brick of primers.

2) you mentioned tightening your barrel/action an 1/8 inch. you should turn it in to the exact place that did the final headspace; usually a scribed line on the barrel y action. since you can chamber rounds, you are ok, but might have a little less headspace than final chambering. i probably am mis- interpreting your comment, but just in case ...

i gots a beautiful sako 308 that shoots 4 moa with generic mj loads .. so it's nice to remember that mj have bad hair days also ( g ) .

ken

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OU812 posted this 03 August 2014

The Cerakote is some tuff stuff, the finish held up without a scratch during clamping. I tightened receiver to barrel about 1/8” turn...maybe a little more than Ken recommended.

Went to the range to break in barrel using cheap pulled jacketed Magtech 162 grain bullets and Hodgdon Copper Fouling Eraser 223 powder. Velocity was held to about 2000fps. Accuracy was about 1 1/2 MOA at 100 yards during break in. Next trip I will load rounds using better Sierra 175 grain bullets and a few cast bullets (311284, RCBS 165 sil, etc.) I hope accuracy improves.

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OU812 posted this 27 July 2014

I painted barrel using just under 15ml of mixed Cerakote (Matte Graphite Black ceramic paint). This small kit will paint several more gun barrels. Then baked in oven @250 degrees for 2 hours. Next I have to clamp barrel between wooden blocks to tighten to receiver. I hope clamping the barrel does not marr finish.


 

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OU812 posted this 20 July 2014

Thanks, I do have some Moroso Moly Paste. I purchased this stuff to coat inside the barrel of my PCP air rifle. I gained a little more velocity, but accuracy was not better. * Yes this is a fun learning experience. I am not complaining, but my cost so far

Barrel:.................. $220.00 Action wrench:............ $65.00 Go and No Go gauges:...... $70.00 308 Winchester Reamer:... $150.00 Cerakote kit:..............$45.00

80 grit Garnet sand:.......$29.00

Total:....................$579.00

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 19 July 2014

i like moly goop ...moly never-seize, moly bullet lube ... note: with moly, the barrel will easily turn a few degrees more than when you fitted it dry. i use about 40 inch-lbs. or a mild jerk ( g ) .

speaking of moly, it is useful to ease seating a snug fitting nose fat bullet. the trade off is that you might never get it out of your barrel. of course that is also the good news.

ain't this fun ?

ken

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OU812 posted this 19 July 2014

Ken Campbell Iowa wrote: that 1.75 degree throat will engrave about 1/8 inch, so it would be interesting to taper a front groove size band an 1/8 inch long to about 1.75 degrees.

( per side ) .

sounds like fun, let us kanowe how it shoots.

ken You are exactly right, the 1.75 degree throat engraves about 1/8"on Lee bullet. In my new SAMMI 308 chamber, the RCBS 165 sil does not have enough length to.bump taper front drive band to fit taper, but it will ride in the lead or freebore of chamber. The Lee bullets (Harris designs) will work perfectly for bumping up to fit taper.  Linotype bullets sized with .310 sizer die will not fit lead or free bore area, but will fit using the .309 sizer.

* I am now preparing to coat my  chrome moly barrel with Graphite Black Cerakote. I purchase 50lbs of 80 grit Garnet media (local Tractor Supply $29.00) to media blast barrel before spraying and baking. Cerakote recommends using 100-120, but some say 80grit will work also.

* What should I apply to barrel threads before final tightening barrel to receiver?  

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OU812 posted this 17 July 2014

Capote wrote: 0U812,    what are you using for lathe equipment to finish chamber ? No lathe is needed to finish ream a short chambered barrel. Just a T handle to hold reamer. I used the T handle from my tap and die set and Rapid Tap cutting fluid. I used compressed air to blow out chips between inspection. Very simple.

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John Alexander posted this 17 July 2014

Ken Campbell Iowa wrote: that 1.75 degree throat will engrave about 1/8 inch, so it would be interesting to taper a front groove size band an 1/8 inch long to about 1.75 degrees. ( per side ) .

ken That would be interesting.  That along with a great hulking well fitted bore riding nose and very shallow seating in the case  so case and loaded round concentricity would be a dead issue would have to get a long bullet off to a good start.  What could go wrong? John

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 17 July 2014

that 1.75 degree throat will engrave about 1/8 inch, so it would be interesting to taper a front groove size band an 1/8 inch long to about 1.75 degrees.

( per side ) .

sounds like fun, let us kanowe how it shoots.

ken

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Capote posted this 17 July 2014

0U812,    what are you using for lathe equipment to finish chamber ?

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OU812 posted this 16 July 2014

Today I partially cut new 308 Winchester chamber just to see how easy it was to do. I cut until reamer touched case shoulder area then stopped. Later I will cut deeper to adjust for head space. Afterwards I viewed throat area with Hawkeye borescope, everything looks good. No burrs with evenly length cut lands. This new chamber looks LOTS better than my factory Remington chamber that is slightly offset and not concentric.

The lead or free bore area of this SAMMI spec reamer measured exactly .3100 diameter and .090 long as advertised. The steeper SAMMI taper into rifling will take longer to erode away.

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OU812 posted this 14 July 2014

Check out Grizzly's PTG Uni Throater. This generic 30 cal reamer has a  large lead diameter of .3135 http://www.grizzly.com/products/30-Cal-Uni-Throater-Chambering-Finish-Reamer/T10471>http://www.grizzly.com/products/30-Cal-Uni-Throater-Chambering-Finish-Reamer/T10471


http://www.bullets.com>http://www.bullets.com hazmat fee now only $20.00

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OU812 posted this 14 July 2014

Thanks everyone for helping me understand this hobby a lot better. I decided to keep this first build simple, so I will be using a simple PTG piloted 308 Winchester reamer (.090 long lead .310 diameter). Grizzly sells these along with other style reamers. I almost purchased the 308 Fullbore version (.050 long lead .3085 diameter).


http://www.grizzly.com/products/-308-Winchester-Chambering-Finish-Reamer/T10185>http://www.grizzly.com/products/-308-Winchester-Chambering-Finish-Reamer/T10185

****   Check out their 5r barrels. http://bullets.com/search?s=brand:bartlein>http://bullets.com/search?s=brand:bartlein   http://s1225.photobucket.com/user/aviserated1/media/308_zps20bf8ea8.jpg.html>

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TomG posted this 12 July 2014

Yes, it's not hard to bump up a bullet in an RCBS Rock Chucker press setup. I've heard that this press can generate ~60,000 psi. when it rolls over center at the top of the stroke. It takes very llittle effort to do it. When trying to bump up, I used to get stretching of the bump dies if they were made of 7/8” stock so, I took the bushing out of the top of the press and used stock that was much larger in diameter.  Even Drill Rod would stretch and that's pretty tough stuff. Having a thicker wall on the dies solved the stretching problem.

Bumping lead bullets  up is less desirable than sizing them down. It's better not to choose a throat that is over .309” and then everybody's 30 cal. bullets can be made to fit by sizing down. In bumping them up, die stretching and bump force make it very hard to maintain a consistent diameter unless you use a soft alloy and shoot them slow. My bump press design was made in such a way as to control where the taper started on the bullet as well as the bump force when the press rolled over center.

Yes, I used alloys of monotype and Foundry type to shoot in the 2500 to 2700 fps. range. This was to minimize wind drift. These alloys always cast very easily too which added to the consistency of the bullets. With properly sized bullets and my proprietary lube, leading was not existent.

I always figgered that using bumped bullets, match prepped Lapua brass in a 30 BR chamber and a match grade SS barrel, with a Stolle action, Jewel 2 oz. trigger, and a 36 power scope, the guns were capable of .3 MOA.  Now, shooting that well in the conditions was another story!!!

Tom

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