Who Shoots the .303 British?

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Ed Harris posted this 15 August 2018

Jeff in NZ, Ric, Giorgio and I have been discussing the .303 British offline.  With Jeff's help I'm compiling the info for a Fouling Shot article, but we still have more shooting to do to confirm some things.

I am more interested at this point in mild, plain-based loads for recreational shooting than heavier hunting loads.

I'm using the NOE clone of 316299 in plain-base and Accurate 31-215BB which is a bevel-based version of 31-215B, having a 0.09" long, 7-1/2 degree short boattail instead of the GC heel. I ordered this .315" diameter with the tolerance "positive" because my Long Branch No. 4 Mk1* 2-groove is "large".

Initial testing has been with Bullseye, but I am also experimenting with "half charges" ala Frank Marshall, using common extruded rifle powders like 3031 or 4064, in charges which occupy about half of the case, using a loose Dacron filler tucked into the case neck.  I'm hoping to find a utility load which shoots close to point of aim at 100 yards using the ladder of the Mk3 battlesight folded down and just using standing "ghost ring."  If I can get a load which shoots about as well as MkVII Ball ammo at about 1300 fps, I figure that approximating .44-40 Winchester payload and velocity in the .303 should put lots of meat in the freezer.  The  roundnosed NOE bullet for paper, the flatnosed Accurate mold for the woods. 

 

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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RMeissner posted this 05 April 2020

I size to .313 and batch my bullets as recommended by the majority of cast bullet shooters. The lead I use is wheel weights and linotype, with a difference of about 10gr between WW than linotype bullets. Although linotype is hard to come by at scrap metal merchants, in South Africa Castle Lead Works makes my alloy out of lead I get from the scrap yards. Castle lead works has a spectrometer that determines lead alloy composition. Since I push my bullets towards standard high velocities I find linotype to be the best.

Richard Meissner

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pisco posted this 04 April 2020

i have found that sizing to .316 “ is best in my smles 

my next step is weighing my projectiles 

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RMeissner posted this 04 April 2020

I shoot with Long Branch and Savage 303s both with walnut stocks. I converted the Savage to a Lee Enfield No 4 Mk 1T, fitted with an original Mk1 No 32 WW2 telescope. My cast bullets vary. I shoot the NOE 314-198-SP over 37.5gr Somchem S355 and 41gr S361 (slow burning South African manufactured powders) through both rifles with very good accuracy. Over these loads I achieve around 2 150 feet per second with very good accuracy. I use a carded fibre filler, which is the cotton, and therefore, natural alternative to dacron. I, furthermore, powder coat all my bullets after gas checking. Two years ago, I bagged a warthog at very close range with a head shot using the 314-198-SP and last year an impala out at about 50 meters.

Recently, I bought the Lee 312-155 six cavity mould and is busy with load testing. I've achieved good groupings so far. My test loads ranged from 30gr to 32 gr of S355. I noticed that the 32gr started producing decent groups at 100 metres. I intend to test loads starting at 33gr and ending with 36gr. I also bought some Vihta N110 and would like to test this propellant with a starting load of 19gr and going up to 24gr for the Lee 312-155. However, I feel these loads might be too slow(?) I also have the Lee 309-113 soup can which I use in the 303s. My loads are low, 7gr of MS1200 (a Somchem propellant for shotguns). I get decent groups with the bullet although designed for a .308. Can one go faster with this bullet through the 303? I also have the Lee TL309-230-5R mould but can't get it to shoot accurately over 35gr S355. If someone can give some advice on this one I'll appreciate it? I also own a Lyman 314299 with 'ok' accuracy over 37.5gr S355. I would also like some advice on getting it to shoot like the NOE 314-198-SP. The bullets i mention in the second paragraph are also powder coated.

I recently got a third 303; a 1949 No 4 Mk 2(F), but have not used it much. It is in mint condition and I foresee some good accuracy from this rifle.

Richard Meissner

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skeet1 posted this 05 December 2019

Danny,

Very nice looking rifle! You said it was dated 1918 but didn't say who the manufacturer was?

 

Ken

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pisco posted this 24 September 2019

hi i have only ever poured boiling water down the barrel and used bore solvent then oiled the barrel after using ex mil ammo never had a problem 

i think there are a lot of people who don’t know what they are talking about when it comes to ex mil ammo

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SkinnerD posted this 23 September 2019

Thks.

I watched a Gunblue490 YouTube vid recently where he talked about barrel life. Interes6fella, can be long winded but has a lot of experience and useful info.

One if his comments was to the effect that corrosive salts embed in the molecular structure, the grain of the barrel metal. You can wash them off the surface but you can't wash them out of the metal where they continue to do their unwanted work over time.

I was brought up to wash a barrel out with boiling water from a fresh kettle. The residual heat allows the barrel to self dry. Soap would no doubt help.

Cheers

John - New Zealand

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Brodie posted this 22 September 2019

You don't really need the Linotype.  If you want a harder alloy just water drop or heat treat the wheel weights.  A properly fitting bullet with a gas check can be pushed to jacketed speeds in the .303.

The way to clean corrosive primer salts from a gun barrel is to use hot soapy water.  Scrub the barrel well wiith several wet patches, rinse with boiling water,  dry the barrel well and then oil.  Just like you were cleaning a muzzle loader that had been shot with black powder.

Good luck with your summer projects.

B.E.Brickey

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SkinnerD posted this 22 September 2019

My first rifle I ever owned after early years on my dad's Lithgow .22 LR (barrel made from war surplus 303 blank), was a full wood Mark 4. At age 19 I proceeded to sporterise it myself with a wood rasp and sandpaper. Came up beautifully, shot a few goats with it, then got married and sold it for very good money to finance the first kid. I reloaded for it with a Lee Loader. Learned everything from an Oz writers basic reloading book (Nick someone), which I still have somewhere. Didn't know anyone else who shot, let alone shot a 303. Yes I was a rural recluse. Fast forward a few decades and I have a couple of 303s. First one I picked up two years ago and onsold as it was getting too loose in the headspace although still safe. Another I bought late last year with very nice wood grain, a barrel at about 40% and a spare barrel at about 90%. About $350 invested. Have yet to do much with it - it gets its turn this summer. I also recently bought, sight unseen, a cosmetic scrubber with a Army Armourer barrel fitted new. The barrel was shortened a couple of inches and threaded for a Bush/pig gun. It's with a mate at the moment who picked it up for me in my absence overseas. I get my hands on it next week - he wants to keep it lol. Reportedly it has had less than 100 rounds thru it since the new barrel was fitted. I intend to shoot cast thru both. Range fun and plinking is the intention with the first, bush and fringes hunting out to 250 meters with the second. At present I have been purchasing .313 sized cast gas checked HP bullets, 220gn or thereabouts from memory, from Tokoroa, NZ. I also have a batch of about 400 x GC Cast Lead Pointy Nose 200gn I bought at auction to try. Again sized to .313.

I've been collecting WW and have some plumber's lead but no linotype. I also have a couple of moulds I picked up with some pistol moulds some time ago, can't remember off hand and at a distance which ones they are other than one is a Lyman and one a Lee. Yes I know.... I also have Lee Sizing dies in , .311, .312, .314 and .316 or 318. As you can tell it's a project in the making.

I've been collecting brass forever and prob have around 600 new and fired. I took some old CAC boxer brass last year and made up 10 loads with cast bullets. Twenty four hours later all the necks had split! So I did the research on annealing and tried my hand on a batch of 20. So far they are on their 3rd reload without issue. These are old tarnished 1950's cases to practice with. No I'm not going to share groups with you. I don't believe there were any. Mismatch between bore and bullet sizes I'm guessing.

So the plan for this summer is to melt a bunch of WW into ingots. Ditto whatever plumber's lead I can find, and see if I can hunt down some linotype.

I will slug both bores and see what I am working with. I'll also go over both rifles to check fitting of the wood and any accurizing issues - got a pile of info on that.

I have a bunch of both CAC military ball and sporter hunting ammo which I will benchmark the rifles with on the range. Although I'm reluctant to stuff anything corrosive in them. Those salts are impossible to remove! I'm working on the principle that boxer equals non-corrosive.

After that I'll see where the bought projectiles I've got get me to and then start casting and reloading.

I have several suitable powders but have started with Benchmark 2. I've also got Trailboss which I think will be the do's going forward.

Lots of fun ahead.

All comments, advice and suggestions entertained.

John - New Zealand

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SkinnerD posted this 22 September 2019

A 303 SMLE was

John - New Zealand

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pisco posted this 08 April 2019

hi that is a bit of a trip from inverell

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Mike H posted this 08 April 2019

I am at Junee,NSW,this lot of shooting was at Wagga Wagga SSAA,shot off benches,not the same as on a classification range,I would say it was shooting with a service rifle,but not what I knew as Service Rifle with deliberate,snap and rapid stages.As most of the members are not up to anything too vigorous and the range standing orders to be followed, shooting of the bench under cover is very pleasant.

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pisco posted this 08 April 2019

hi where do you shoot at mike h i have shot service rifle with cast it would be good to catch up

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Mike H posted this 07 April 2019

I forgot to mention what projectile I was using,it was a CBE 313-215 GC with Hornady gc‘s,sized 314“,home lube,half bees wax and half moly grease.The rifle a Fazlerky no 4.

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Mike H posted this 07 April 2019

Today I went to one of two ranges I am a member of,when signing in,I was asked was I shooting in the mornings competition,I had only came to test gas check loads in a couple of 303‘s,after a quick thought,I replied why not,after it was explained the competition was a 303 service rifle shoot.The format was 5 at 50yards,10 at 100 yards and 5 at 200 yards.I had time to get a zero at 100 yards,then the competition began,had to guess an aiming point at 50 yards,which was fortunately close enough,after the 50 yards we moved to 100 yards,looked fairly good then I reckoned there were more shots on the target,as there was an old bloke next door,older than my 75 plus years,I soldierd on,when time came to score I had 20 shots on the target and my neighbor had the correct 10.After a few short seconds,I came to the conclusion all of my gas checks had come off.We then moved to the 200 yard range,that was a serious eye test,after firing the required 5 shots,I now had 9 shots on the paper.

What surprised me was that the gas checks that came off at 100 yards could carry to 200 yards and still hit the target.At 100 yards the 20 hits were 6.75“ wide and 6“ deep,at 200 yards the nine hits were 9““ deep and 11“ wide.All I could think was that after the gas checks came off before 100 yards,they may have been carried along in some sort of vacuum behind the solid projectile part.A mystery to me,now I have to stop the gas checks coming off.The scorers took pity on me,and reckoned I was handicapped enough using lead gc bullets and I came third.

The load was 28 grains of 2206 powder,which is very close to H4895,one grain dacron filler and Federal 210 primers,would have to check but fairly sure the cases were HXP neck sized in a Lee collet die,they were given a Lee Factory Crimp Die Crimp after seating.

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JeffinNZ posted this 01 March 2019

For our US cousins AR2260H is H4895.

Cheers from New Zealand

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Mike H posted this 01 March 2019

I have still been working on the 303‘s,late last year I purchased another mould off David at Cast Bullet Engineering,a double cavity 303 mould,one cavity is 315-218 GC and the other a 315-240 GC,I have shot them both at 50 yards without a gas check,18 grains of 2206 and a Dacron filler in a loose Long Branch.The 315-218 gc,about 225 grains shot the best with ten shots going 52 millimeters vertical(just over 2&ldquo and 29 millimeters wide.The 240 grain 315-240 didn‘t do as well,5“ wide by 1.7“ high,they also were showing plenty of tipping and wobble,

I have also loaded them with a gc and 28 grains of 2206 powder and a dacron filler, 2206 is not made now but is very close to 2206H.At 100 yards off a bench the 240 grain with 28 grains of 2206 put eight shots into a 3“ group,2.5“ horizontal and 2.3“ vertical.This seemed a good solid load.                                                           Last week I tried the 315-218gc and 28 grains of 2206 at 300 yards,I didn’t have a good position and the 4X scope wasn’t set up well,being too far back,causing poor holding,however it kept inside the aiming mark,about 22“ diameter. If I can get a rifle set up with a scope with correct eye relief,I am sure good things can happen. At the moment I have plenty of various loads ready,all it needs is cooler weather.

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pisco posted this 14 November 2018

done some tinkering over the weekend the slugs i run in my smles i have been sizeing them to 314 tried some at 315 and made a difference with the groups have loaded some up and will shoot service rifle in a few weeks and see how they go

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Ed Harris posted this 11 November 2018

At the velocities which work best with plainbased bullets and light smokeless charges, no more lube is needed than the tumble film-lubes. More lube with light loads seems to open groups.  Above about 1300 fps I fill the lube grooves, generally by pan lubing 1:4 mutton tallow and beeswax, or the same ratio of ATF and beeswax for heavier GC loads above 1800 fps.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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max503 posted this 11 November 2018

If your Long Branch is a 2-groove, you will likely find .313" is too small.  I had my Accurate and NOE plainbased molds cut to .316"

 

 Hope this isn't a dumb question, but you tumble lube your rifle bullets?  Or is it just because those are PB?

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longhunter posted this 11 November 2018

I have two 303.  One an Austrailan Jungle Carbine, shoots well and a No1 mk3.  It has a new 1945 barrel on it.  Both bores are good.

I use the Lyman 314299 sized to ,314  with Alox and Bills Liquid lube as an over coat.

16 gr of IMR 4227 and have good luck with this load. 10 grs of Uniqe also has shot well for me.

Jon

Jon Welda CW5 USA Ret.

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