Sight Adjustment On Fixed Sight Revolvers

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  • Last Post 24 March 2017
Ed Harris posted this 22 February 2017

It is common for fixed-sight 2” snubbies not to shoot precisely to point of aim.  After all they are “belly guns” intended more for instinctive pointing than precision aimed fire.  However, most users would like them to shoot mostly where they point in relation to the sights.

When barrels are turned into revolver frames at the factory, the assemblers are more concerned that they don't come loose, therefore it is common that barrels may be over-tightened, sometimes causing “thread choke” or collapsing of the bore adjacent the root of the barrel thread, or “off-shooters” in which a barrel snugged too much shoots to the right, as its front sight can be seen to lean very slightly towards 1130, rather than being absolutely vertical.

When cop guns are tested at the factory, they are commonly shot off sandbags at 15 yards or so, aiming at a 3” circle.  As long as 4 out of 5 or 6 shots hits either on or in the circle, it passes.  If fewer than 4 shots were cutting or in the circle, the barrel would be turned in the frame to correct windage by striking the barrel lug with a lead babbitt hammer.  A skilled workman at S&W or Ruger could “eyeball” the lean of the front sight, take one calibrated WHACK~! on the barrel lug with his babbit hammer and send the gun back to the range for a re-shoot.  A second whack with the babbit bar was very seldom needed if the guy was experienced at this job, because he was paid piecework, not by the hour!

A recent purchase of mine, an S&W Model 36 (no dash) of 1960s manufacture shot about 4” right at 7 yards with factory wadcutters.  If I just point-shot the gun at 50 feet, ignoring the sights, but using only the weapon silhouette point method, I could keep them all in the K5.  But I would like to be able to head shoot a rabbit or grouse if an opportunity presented itself, so the sights needed to be closer!

This revolver was a “pinned” barrel model.  I didn't wish to remove the barrel pin and chance loosening the barrel and maybe having to take it to a gunsmith to have properly reset.  SO I relied on my Ruger training and experience to WHACK~! the barrel just enough to back it off solidly against the barrel pin, hoping that the slight rotation possible would position the front sight closer to 12:00 dead-center and and point of impact would be  "close enough” for my intended concealed carry and woods walking use.

I used a small 4 oz. brass hammer from Brownell's, resting the revolver barrel on a lead block, and decided that several well-calibrated, carefully executed smaller whacks with my small hammer were safer than attempting one mighty blow with a BFH, given the small target afforded by the Model 36's tiny barrel lug.  After about six careful blows my eyeball inspection indicated the front sight was now almost perfectly vertical, and that the cylinder opened and closed easily and the center pin locked up as it should.

A quick trip to the range revealed that point of impact was now close enough.  I just saved myself a 60-mile drive to Northern Virginia Gunworks and a minimum gunsmith labor charge.

Now to give my Model 32-1 the same treatment!  Same result, no pictures needed, Instant replay!

 

 

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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M3 Mitch posted this 24 March 2017

Thanks for this tip Ed!  Some people (mostly with little experience with snubs and other short-barreled gats) think a snub can't shoot accurately anyway.  This is not true in my experience. I have a Beretta Minx with the longer barrel ("Buntline Minx") - .22 Short autoloader.  At a measured 50 yards, I could (at least when 20 years younger) hit about 8 out of 10 bowling pins with it.  (What a .22 Short bullet can do at 50 yards beyond knock over a bowling pin, I am not sure - I was just having fun!) I don't have any 2” or so revolvers, but a 3” old Smith 38 S&W 5-shot also shoots more accurately than most expect.

So anyway a snub could very well be capable of head shots on small game, if sighted in right.  That and one needs to really concentrate his focus on that front sight, and get a good surprise break, the shortness of the gat mean you have to line up the sights carefully, and not disturb that alignment by mashing the trigger.

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Pepe Ray posted this 13 March 2017

Thanks, Ed, for the heads up on this. I may stick to “Kentucky windage".

Pepe Ray

Only in His name.

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Ed Harris posted this 05 March 2017

On Colts which do not have a lug on the barrel to lock the ejector rod, like S&W, a brass or aluminum barrel clamp, tightened with four 1/4-20 socket-head bolts, is positioned around grasping the barrel muzzle, surrounding the front sight.  The clamp has a 1” square block on each end, surrounding the recessed bolt heads, which serves as the striking surface to turn the barrel with the hammer, while the revolver frame is supported and clamped in a vise.

The S&W method (also used at Ruger) is MUCH simpler and faster! 

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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David Reiss posted this 05 March 2017

Yes, that is exactly. it is much easier to do with the short barrel revolvers. With barrels approaching 4” or more, it takes much more force and you may actually bend the barrel just slightly, and that is not what you want. 

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
-Services: Wars Fought, Uprisings Quelled, Bars Emptied, Revolutions Started, Tigers Tamed, Assassinations Plotted, Women Seduced, Governments Run, Gun Appraisals, Lost Treasure Found.
- Also deal in: Land, Banjos, Nails, Firearms, Manure, Fly Swatters, Used Cars, Whisky, Racing Forms, Rare Antiquities, Lead, Used Keyboard Keys, Good Dogs, Pith Helmets & Zulu Headdresses. .

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JeffinNZ posted this 05 March 2017

Not being a revolver shooter and somewhat slow on the uptake am I right to say you are very, very slightly rotating the barrel?

Cheers from New Zealand

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RicinYakima posted this 05 March 2017

John, It may not be impressive snow for a Yankee, but it was a lot for the high desert! Wait till you go 9 months of sunshine every day and no rain. Then you'll know your are not in Oz. Best wishes, Ric

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John Alexander posted this 04 March 2017

Pepe,

Welcome to the new forum.

We did sell our  place along with my tunnel (sob), as well as my range in Argyle. I did miss your blizzard but we had record snowfall here in Oregon but not too impressive by Maine standards.

Sorry that we never managed to connect while I was still in Maine.  We are only 3,700 miles further west.

John

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Pepe Ray posted this 04 March 2017

I've got a Colt Agent that needs this adjustment. Maybe I'll work up the courage to try it!

Hi boy's 'n girls. I finally found the correct keys to get here. Still bumbling along. Maybe I'll get familiar with this software. It certainly can't be any worse than the last one.

Hey John!! Did you sell your place? Did you miss our blizzard?

Later, Pepe Ray

Only in His name.

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Eutectic posted this 27 February 2017

I have always done this with a Swiss file. Your method is better I will try it next time!

Steve

The measure of a mechanic is the size of his hammer.

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45 2.1 posted this 23 February 2017

Excellent information. Thanks!

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David Reiss posted this 23 February 2017

Great explanation! I was trained in the same manner at S&W, but using a lead babbit. Don't be afraid to try this, you won't mar the finish and it the “rap” will only move it a little at a time. Below, two of the most useful tools on my bench.

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
-Services: Wars Fought, Uprisings Quelled, Bars Emptied, Revolutions Started, Tigers Tamed, Assassinations Plotted, Women Seduced, Governments Run, Gun Appraisals, Lost Treasure Found.
- Also deal in: Land, Banjos, Nails, Firearms, Manure, Fly Swatters, Used Cars, Whisky, Racing Forms, Rare Antiquities, Lead, Used Keyboard Keys, Good Dogs, Pith Helmets & Zulu Headdresses. .

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