New bullet for my Ruger #1

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  • Last Post 12 March 2021
Samari46 posted this 11 March 2021

Have an older Ruger #1 in 45/70. Barrel slugs out at .459 and the only cast bullet mold I have only barely makes .458-.459 I can order one from Accurate molds but have a question. I'll be using pin guages to check on the land height my reason for this is to see wether or not the bore riding section of the bullet is more than the standard .450 or therabouts. As it is if I stick the bore riding section of the lyman 580 grain gas checked bullet is slides in the muzzle easily. No real contact with the rifling. Accuracy with this particular bullet has been dismal. So i'm thinking of going with a larger bore riding section, possibly .002 or maybe more. Anyone see a problem with my reasoning. Probably get the mold cut .462. Regular accuracy with Remington 300 grain bulk bullets is disappointing as well and they measure .457. Thank you, Frank

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Bud Hyett posted this 11 March 2021

Can all this problem be with the mold selection? Have you tried shooting the loads with the forearm removed? That is one first step when I buy a Ruger #1 that is not shooting up to par. Getting the forearm away from the barrel and not touching the action will often help. Try this first to see if the forearm has undue influence on the accuracy.

The early Lyman molds are notorious for having undersized bore-riding noses. You might first consider lapping the nose portion before buying another mold. 

I have a decided prejudice for Reloder #7 powder for medium and high-power loads, Unique for light loads. 

I love my Ruger #1's, but they are often frustrating to get to shoot. I had 500 rounds through my .22 Hornet before the combination of a Bonanza Benchrest seating die and Berger 35 grain bullets brought success. 

Farm boy from Illinois, living in the magical Pacific Northwest

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Lee Guthrie posted this 11 March 2021

First, just how bad accuracy is "dismal"?   Old #1s in .45-70 had a way way longer ballseat than newer ones: loads that fit fine in mine would not even chamber in a friends new one.   Undersize bullets and long jumps tend to have less than stellar accuracy.

The more normal bullet weight for that cartridge is the original 405 gr or a 330 gr of the later "express" loadings.

Before buying a new mould you might at least try a drastic change in alloy: (1) softer alloy with faster burning shotgun powder to see if it bumps up, or (2) high antimony alloy to see if it will throw a bullet of .460 or better.  Beagling the mould or lapping it as Bud suggested.  

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 12 March 2021

i would give first priority to chamber throat/leade fit and then adjust the front end of the casting for groove/bore fit.

a throat/leade casting or soft lead upset image will be a help in selecting a good mold ... or modifying a present mold.

as above, chambers in production guns vary enough to warrant measuring your own specific chamber.

keep us up on how your adventure is coming along.  so far i am having great fun just plinking with my R3 in 45-70, but sooner or later i will get more serious with a few bench targets ... 

ken

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John Alexander posted this 12 March 2021

I'm with Lee.  Softer alloy or beagle that baby, or both -- easy to do.  Chances are that the bigger nose will help and the less than perfectly round bullets will shoot just fine if they fit. Bud's suggestion to shoot it without the forend is also easy, but if the nose is that undersized at the muzzle, I think you will have to have a bigger nose to get first rate accuracy.

John

 

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Spindrift posted this 12 March 2021

Just so you know....

Adding a polymer coat adds about 0,002-3in of girth to the bullet. Polymer coated bullets also tend to work satisfactorily at slightly slimmer sizes than the same bullet with regular lube. It is an elegant, efficient solution to the problem of undersized bullets lacking 0,002, or thereabouts. 

Getting set up for PC cost less than a new quality mould, and the technique would be applicable to all your other moulds, probably. There is, however, a learning curve- like always, when learning a new skill. 

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