Needed; Sample Accurate 31-200L with .301 or .302 nose

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  • Last Post 12 October 2021
Wm Cook posted this 12 October 2021

I would like to buy about 45 unchecked and unsized bullets from an Accurate 31-200L mold that is coming out with a .301 or .302 nose. I want to do a side by side comparison with a Lyman 311299 whose nose measures .300. The bore of my rifle is a tad north of .3000 and I want to see the difference between nearly no land contact and bullets making some land contact with the bore rider design.

I don’t think that bumping up would give me the full bearing surface that a full .301 or .302 bullet would give.

In my rig the 311299 looks just short of being competitive with 4198 @ 1700 to 1750 fps. If anyone could help I would appreciate it.

Thanks, Bill.

PS: In that big spending bill going through Congress do you think they could fund three Accurate 31-200L molds with a .300, .301 and a .302 nose so I could do this proper? I have a rifle and conditions that I could tell the difference and provide hard numbers to prove it. Thanks again.

Patience isn’t a virtue, it’s a delay tactic.

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John Alexander posted this 12 October 2021

Bill,

You don't need a covey of molds to find out the optimum nose size. Just beagle your mold with the right number of layers of your wife's Al foil until you have the nose diameter you are interested in testing. Put the shims near the nose. Simple and cheap, no National Science Foundation grant needed.

Yes, the bullet will be less round but the target won't know the difference.  All my match bullets have been beagled for the last several years, usually a bit more every year or two to fit the growing throat and bore. I am currently using bullets with the noses 0.003" over nominal bore size.  All the things you have read about bullets needing to be round to be accurate are by people who have never tried beagling.

The results of your experiments will probably provide the basis of a nice Fouliing Shot article.

John

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Wm Cook posted this 12 October 2021

Thanks.  Researching it now.  Trying to find an image to post.  Quick scans recommends double face tape and from your description John it would be applied to one side of the mold north of the driving band.  Am I close?

Patience isn’t a virtue, it’s a delay tactic.

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TRKakaCatWhisperer posted this 12 October 2021

NO to double face tape.  Use the metalic tape that is used to seal sheet-metal vents.

The tape needs to stick to ONE side of the mold and NOT to the other.

The metal withstands the heat (about 400 df)

 

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Wm Cook posted this 12 October 2021

Got it.  Self adhesive sheet metal duct work tape. 

And following the suggestion of just beagling the nose; would it look something like this?

Patience isn’t a virtue, it’s a delay tactic.

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John Alexander posted this 12 October 2021

That should work.  The aluminum tape for heating ducts works but the stuff I have is much thicker than common aluminum foil.  I use  white Elmer's glue and the number of layers it takes. It seldom comes off but can be removed easily or added to or taken off to start again.

Good luck.  Let us know how it goes.

John

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