Load and velocity advice

  • Last Post 05 August 2017
750k2 posted this 09 December 2016

Gonna try and play this game this year.

Do you use different loads for 100 & 200?

What velocity do you run?

I was thinking 1600fps for both if I can get let to fly out of my

rifle and hit anything.


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750k2 posted this 11 December 2016

I guess this just ain't getting looked at - it shows up at the bottom of the time line.

I wish they would get this all sorted out

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R. Dupraz posted this 11 December 2016

 750k2, I just now saw your post and if you are thinking of shooting the military matches, by all means do it. That's why I initially joined the CBA many years ago now and really is where my interest lies, It's quite amazing to see how well those old warriors can shoot cast.


As to your question, I have an “03” Springfield and a K-98 Israeli 7.62x51 Mauser that are used in the military matches through the summer and win or lose, enjoy shooting both. After developing the most accurate load for each, I have used those loads for both the 100 and 200 yd stages with good success over the years. But a couple off us here in the past have discussed your idea of different loads for the two stages but never have gotten around to really trying it. But think I will this spring just to find out if it's worth the time or not.


I have found the best accuracy with cast bullets in my rifles to be in a range generally between 1400-1600 FPS.



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David Reiss posted this 11 December 2016

Just moving the thread back to the latest.

David Reiss - NRA Life Member & PSC Range Member Retired Police Firearms Instructor/Armorer
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SierraHunter posted this 18 December 2016

I have never had separate loads for longer range. If I don't feel the gun is capable of the ranged I move to a bigger gun. For match shooting, and thing over the speed of sound should reach 200 yards easily.

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RicinYakima posted this 18 December 2016

I normally use a load that the Lyman Handbook says will give me a bullet velocity over the speed of sound at 200 yards. That is my minimum velocity. Then I work up for maximum accuracy at 100 yards, seems to work for me.

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Westhoff posted this 27 December 2016

In my “03-A3 I normally use a Lyman 311284 at 100 yds. and a 311299 at 200..  I “think” the 284 bullet is a tiny bit the better of the two at the shorter range, but the 299 bullet seems to ignore a cross wind a wee bit better out at 200.  I'm probably very full of B.S.; They're probably pretty much equal (with the proper powder charge for each), but one important thing I learned during the years I spent competing at bullseye pistol: (by the time you hit the 80 year mark you shake a little too much to shoot pistol and I'm 9 years past that milestone).....

   Once you learn the basics - and sometimes that takes a while - most of the rest of shooting tens and Xs rests up there    between your ears.  If you find something, bullet or load, that you believe is a little bit better than something else, it probably    is, FOR  YOU!  

Works for me.






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JeffinNZ posted this 28 December 2016

I'm with Rick.  Keep it supersonic at 200 yards.  I'd be looking for 1150-1200fps minimum remaining velocity.

Cheers from New Zealand

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Westhoff posted this 02 August 2017

O.K. I need some advice from you Ruger No, 1 fans.

I just recently became the owner of a No. 1 in 30-'06.  A new, unfired one.  Right now, just the issue open sights, which I plan to upgrade with a scope.  First, I'd appreciate any and all suggestions for CB loads (target loads, I'm closing in on 90 years old and I've killed enough critters).

Second, any suggestions re amateur (VERY amateur) gunsmithing to tighten up groups.  For instance, one of the first things I noticed was that the forend  would not pass the dollar bill test for clearance under the barrel, and it looks like it bears a lot harder on the port side than on the starboard.  I know what to do with a bolt action with this problem; is a single shot the same?

Any suggestions/advice will be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,


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Ed Harris posted this 03 August 2017

On the Ruger No. 1 you can try bending the fore-end hanger away from the barrel by taking a plastic wedge, inserting it between the barrel and the hanger, and giving it a WHACK~! with a lead hammer, then trying the fore-end until the wood clears a dollar bill around the barrel.  Then you want to temporarily shim the front of the receiver to push the wood clear of the receiver by 0.020" using plastic shims, while you bed the wooden fore-end to the fore-end hanger with Acraglas gel.  You may need to sand the receiver end of the wood to get clearance if the fore-end screw will not go in without binding.  Once the Acraglass has hardened and the receiver shims are removed, the wood fore-end once installed should be entirely clear of the barrel AND the receiver and be attached securely, contacting ONLY the fore-end hanger. THEN the gun will shoot! 

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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Ken Campbell Iowa posted this 03 August 2017

.... also the later r1 triggers are a little ( a  lot ) too heavy for easy target shooting ...  the earlier ones had an adjustment for sear depth  ... the later ones not .  that adjustment can help a lot but should only be attempted after a lot of study and practice .  and maybe a set of spare parts ... ( g ) .  aftermarket triggers are pretty good and pretty expensive ... and some fitting is needed  for less $$ the factory trigger can get down to acceptable .

i have been shooting my r3 quite a bit lately, and after raising the rest blocks a few inches so i can open the lever without moving the rifle, it is fun to shoot off the bench ...  oh, consider higher rings to aid in sliding cartridges in and out under the scope ...  and some smooth the safety button to aid in sliding the brass in and out ... might remove the safety if you will just shoot targets ...  i never used the safety on my r3 for about 10 years ...  leaving the lever down works for that function and is faster than a clunky safety ...   i might mention neither the safety or the extractor was well fitted by the factory ... but i love it anyway ...  my other two r1 are just fine ... .

oh you could experiment by shooting a few groups just resting the barrel directly on a rest ... not the forend ... but the same exact place on the barrel ... the impact will change by a several inches but USUALLY  the groups will be valid , and you can compare them to shooting resting on that vibrating forend ...  remember that the good shooting high walls' forends are essentially one-piece with the barrel ...

hope this helps .... ken

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Ed Harris posted this 03 August 2017

The late LTC Leonard O. Friesz had a system where he did away with the wooden fore-end altogether and bolted a 5 pound block of linotype to the bottom of the fore-end hanger. He rested this directly onto the front Hart pedestal in a sliding return-to-battery rest with no bandbag. The fore-end hanger was milled to clear a 1-1/8" diameter straight pipe bull barrel.  

Rifle was set up with Redfield 3200 scope. 300 yard ten-shot groups were in the order of 2 inches in .30-40 Krag with Hoch 190-grain bullet and 30 grs. of IMR4064.

73 de KE4SKY In Home Mix We Trust From the Home of Ed's Red in "Almost Heaven" West Virginia

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R. Dupraz posted this 03 August 2017

Yes, I had a #1 22-250 heavy varminter once and suffered all the frustrations that are out there trying to get this rifle to shoot jacketed. AND, I wanted to like this rifle because next to 98 Mausers, the single shot rifle is another of my passions. But not to be.

In this poor knaves opinion, Ruger made two mistakes when designing the #1. First, it should have had a striker instead of that monstrous hammer. Second, Who ever designed that silly hanger bar system, should have been put on permanent leave. 

I know where there is a Winchester HW schuetzen 32-40 that has the traditional fore end attachment. Screwed securely to the barrel. And the rifle will put those .32's dang near on top of each other at 100 yds. Not to mention a classy 38-55 that will do the same thing.

It's really a shame that such an elegant rifle is not what it could have been. 

Hope you have better luck than I.



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BigMan54 posted this 04 August 2017

When I shot Handgun Silhouette I used one load for chickens, pigs & turkeys. And a different one for Rams. Never changed the sights, just the hold over. It was easier than adjusting sights. Using 2 different loads can often make sighting in for different distances easier.

Long time Caster/Reloader, Getting back into it after almost 10yrs. Life Member NRA 40+yrs, Life S.A.S.S. #375. Does this mean a description of me as a fumble-fingered knuckle-draggin' baboon. I also drool in my sleep. I firmly believe that true happiness is a warm gun. Did I mention how much I HATE auto-correct on this blasted tablet.

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R. Dupraz posted this 05 August 2017

Same agenda for lever action silhouette with my Marlin 38-55. The two hundred yard 50# rams get the full throttle loads. But do adjust sights for the different banks.  

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